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GrandpaPhil
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I did not use the figurehead out of the kit. I made my own out of basswood and card. I cut off the bow section and traced the one out of the AOTS which is why mine has a notch. I ended up filling it in with a filler block after I made the figurehead. It looks like you wouldn’t need to notch the beakhead if you use the figurehead out of the kit.
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Welcome!
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Thanks, OC! The detailing and the rigging are my favorite parts of ship modeling.
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Nicely done! The notch is to mount the figurehead.
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Making progress on the eyebolts with blocks:
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Thank you both for the comments! Thank you everyone for all the likes! All guns now have eyebolts, complete with double blocks. They are complete. It is now time to resume work on the ship herself. I drilled all holes for the eyebolts yesterday. I am doing the same thing by preattaching blocks to eyebolts prior to installation. The eyebolts for the breech ropes will be made from that annealed wire. The eyebolts located beneath the quarterdeck and spar deck will have their breech ropes pre-tied to them.
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Nicely done!
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The bow chasers are done:
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Yes, white. I used a faux metallic technique with two shades of gray and finished by highlighting with white.
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Thank you very much! The first set of eyebolts with double blocks are on! The long 12’s are done!
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All guns are final painted and ready to receive eyebolts.
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Excellent work! That came out beautifully!
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Welcome!
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John McKay’s The 100 Gun Ship Victory (The Anatomy of the Ship series) is an excellent resource for building the Victory.
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Recommendation - First scratch build
GrandpaPhil replied to Bill Hill's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome! Schooners make great first scratch builds. Mine was the Prince de Neufchatel (Baltimore Clipper) made from Chapelle plans. Model Shipways sells their plan sets reasonably, too. -
Correction, I forgot about the carronades. Make that 88 double blocks tied to eyebolts.
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I’m pre-tying rigging blocks to eyebolts to make installing easier. I need to make 72 of them. These are Tichy HO scale eyebolts with 3mm double blocks from Model Shipways. For those having difficulty with rigging thread fuzzing out, I use a block of beeswax to prevent this.
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All guns are now ready for final painting, after the glue dries.
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I’m glad that you liked the cannons! Thank you very much. Daliab, you will most likely see a very close twin of the keel clamp when I build my next ship. Thank you very much. I am making eyebolts and putting them on the breech of Victory’s guns. My method for making them is simple because of where they are going. I just make a curly Q and cut then off. For an eyebolt anywhere else, I do the same and bend the loop back to make the traditional eyebolt shape. They are a bit large for the scale, but that cannot be helped due to the wire I have and the scale to of the model.
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Welcome!
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Welcome!
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That looks awesome!
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Mine was first generation laser cut. I found the date on the original sales receipt, in the box. I have a Mantua Constitution from the same time period and it is also printed wood and not precut. Personally, I’d use either a coping saw, a jigsaw or a scroll-saw, depending on how you wanted to cut them out. Don’t get me wrong, for the age of the kit, the quality of the wood was good. However, it was still over 25 years old when I got it. Plus, I bought it from someone in the desert and I live in a temperate zone, with high humidity. I made the problem worse because I started it a couple weeks after I got it, so the wood had no time to season in my climate.
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I had three things working against me for this build. The first is that the kit dates from 1991 and the plywood was not the greatest. The second is that I did not use a building board (so it was unbraced). The third was my own inexperience. I know much more now than when I started. For the Prince de Neufchatel, I used Elmers glue on it, for everything, and it warped badly. For any future card builds, I will use PVA glue, namely Monte Mart, as it is not water based. I did not use a building board for that one either. I will be using a building board for my next build, to ensure that the keel is kept straight.
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