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shipmodel

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  1.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  2.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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  4.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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  7.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  8. shipmodel
    Hi Marc - Thanks for the compliments. It's always gratifying to pass along the tips and tricks that I have worked out over the last 35 years. I used to teach rigging seminars for the Guild, but they have been phased out. I keep thinking that I will write a book one day, but it has never really gotten off the ground. Happy to have helped. Dan
  9.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  10.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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  12.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
  13.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
  14.    John Clements reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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  16.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  17. shipmodel
    Hi Marc - The Helping Hands and the fly tying thread will make a significant improvement. Go with that if it works for you. Here is another solution that works in small scales like yours. It relies on stropping with wire and making the hook an integral part of the strop. The photo is pretty self-explanatory. The block is 2mm from Warner Woods West. You can add to the realism with a quick layer of paint on the hook to minimize the look of the twisted wire. A line can be tied to the other side of the block to start the lacing from block to block. Best of success Dan
  18.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  19.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  20.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Armed Virginia Sloop by CiscoH - Model Shipways - 1:48
  21.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Armed Virginia Sloop by CiscoH - Model Shipways - 1:48
  22.    shipmodel reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  23. shipmodel
    Hi Marc - Back in the city for a few days and had the time to catch up on your incredible build. All of the figures are so lifelike and posed so naturally. Your talents are so great, why aren't you making tons of money doing maritime paintings? No one ever got rich making ship models. LOL Sorry you had trouble rigging small blocks. If you intend to fully rig the ship you will be doing it again and again, and again, . . . and again . . . . . I have found that the Helping Hands type of tool is, in fact, quite a help. I add a light spring and a small alligator clamp to one side, which keeps the eye splice, block, stropping rope, and any hook or thimble together and under tension so they can be worked on. Here are some photos, which are really self explanatory - - - You can use the same setup for a wide range of sizes. The block in the last two photos is 2mm long. I hope it makes sense and helps. Dan
  24. shipmodel
    Mark - I don't believe that I will ever build such a large, complicated ship in the years remaining to me. But your explanations have been fascinating and your drawings and illustrations have been brilliant. Thanks for a diverting, engaging, and educational build log. Dan
  25. shipmodel
    Hi Marc - Really nice looking work, and thanks for taking us on the journey, potholes and all. I had the same question as Kirill. How did you aim your deadeye/chainplate units at the future masthead location? Dan
  26. shipmodel
    Hi Cisco - I really like the half-lapped miter joints. I have always used simpler lap joints, but yours are beautiful, justifying the extra work. If I have a suggestion, it is to make the gratings first, before the coamings. If a coaming is a little larger or smaller than the plans, no one can tell. If the grating does not fit the coaming, everyone notices. Looking forward to more. Be well. Dan
  27. Reverend Colonel started following shipmodel
  28. shipmodel
    Hi Jesse - It was a pleasure to meet you earlier today and look at this little gem in person. I think you made an excellent go of the many issues and problems that you encountered in your first wooden ship model. Keep up the good work. You asked about some of my other works, and you can see some of the build logs in my profile, or in the Gallery. I'm always happy to answer any questions that may come to mind. Be well Dan
  29. shipmodel
    Hi Ron - Really good to meet you and to see Oneida. She is even better in person than on MSW. Great job. Dan
  30. shipmodel
    Hi Ron - Nice work on the steps. Building something as complex as a ship model always requires dozens and dozens of individual decisions. I like the ones you have made. I hope that I will get to see her in person in New London at the end of the month. Dan
  31. shipmodel
    Hi Ian - Really nice work on the ship. I am truly envious of your expertise with 3-D printing. It is a technology that I have not mastered and am reduced to buying pre-made parts from Shapeways and then modifying them as needed. Very well done, sir. As for painting, perhaps you could paint the fingers black first, then overpaint with silver, which you can access easily from both sides. You should be able to get clean separation lines either freehand or with some fairly simple masks. Dan
  32. shipmodel started following Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build and Roman Quadrireme Galley by Ian_Grant - 1/32 Scale - RADIO
  33. shipmodel
    Keith - Look for figures in the model railroad TT scale which is 1:120. I took a quick look and Preiser has a set of about 50 unpainted railroad personnel for $18. You will have to select and adapt them, but it is a good place to start. Eberhard - Really excellent work. Your deck fittings and fixtures at your scale are wonderful. You might look into making your guy wires and other lines out of polyester fly tying threads that go down to 0.003" diameter and can be tensioned after installation by heating with a just-extinguished match held under the line. As always, best of success to you. I will continue to watch with interest. Dan
  34. shipmodel
    Hi Mark - Happy that you are back and even happier that you are healthy. Excellent drawings. They really give a good idea of the interior structure of the ship. Dan
  35. shipmodel
    Hi Marc - I finally am getting your updates, and love what you are doing. The gun carriages look fine, and no one the wiser. As for making chain at 1:96, even the old "scratch built" rules allowed for purchased chain. (I have extra chain in really small sizes if you need some). If you are talking about deadeye chainplates, then you are on your own. You might be able to take larger size chain and squeeze the links into thinner, longer shapes. Best of success. Dan
  36. shipmodel
    Hi Cisco - Nice work. Your skills and attention to details are well on their way up the learning curve. Looking forward to watching further progress. As for soldering, I have found that for the tiny parts that we work with a torch is just too powerful, as you found out. A mini soldering iron, like those for the electronics industry and hobby market, works well. I also like using a resistance soldering iron that has no flame or heat (it is sometimes marketed as Cold Heat). It is a bit trickier to use, but the lack of open heat more than makes up for it. Best wishes for continued success in your project. Dan
  37. shipmodel
    Nice repair. Your skills are improving steadily. Congratulations. Dan

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