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Everything posted by cog
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Thanks all for the likes and the positive feed back, it keeps the spirits up and the going less tough I'll try to get those numbers on at the sides, Yesterday eve after studying the rust streaks etc, I perceived it to be possible without to much fuss, and some elbow grease ... so the speck of light is growing to lamp size ... good to have some additional light sources to work with, else I would be in the dark ... I wonder how she might have turned out if I really had to ...
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Always been a glutton for PE branding ... or just masochistic tendency extrapolated to modelbuilding? I just do not see the advantage of having rungs running up your forhead ... the doors, and hatches ... now that's practical for brain surgery ... Love them guns, Scott. Even without the rungs they will turn out magical, so with them ...
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Thanks Lou Yes it is nice in B&W, tones down the harsh colours too. Great idea from RGL!
- 292 replies
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- g class destroyer
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so what went wrong ... missing depth markers ... missing nr ... to late to add or I would have te redo the weathering on the hull, to which I would not be looking forward. some minor items to go" The white bands to secure the boats, some more carleyfloats with paddles (has there been an update recently ... site is behaving odd ...!?)
- 292 replies
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Hmmm, maybe you should book a cruise from e.g. Halifax to Mumansk, with a troop of hungry subs breathing in your neck, no or very limited paint supplies, and bad weather ... yes that would be a nice mixture for a cruise on a WWII destroyer :D Thanks Jack. This was my "how bad can I make her loo with weathering" project ... I just need a few more rigging lines and I'm finished with this one ... two more to go after :O
- 292 replies
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krabben means crabs, kutter is a type of boat
- 171 replies
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- krabbenkutter
- authentic models
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You can "punch" some holes in it with a needle, do it on the "caulk" lines, and those will be practically invisible. Makes it far easier to get the air out too
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- mikasa
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That is a great idea!!! Now you have planted that thought in me head ... Always liked B&W photographs, used to take none other when there was film!! Still do from time to time or convert them to it, although the latter is less fun, Especially winter landscapes I like to do in B&W , but it would be grand to see her in the good ole B&W. Thanks for that and the positive comment of course Cheers
- 292 replies
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The way you built the superstructure, it could have been a model on itself as OC wrote ... so much crisp detail, the camouflage adding a certain multidimensional depth to the structure, and makes the parts pop up, what would have been lost, if it was a mere grey blob ... it really did turn out magnificent
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- tamiya
- king george v
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Thank you for the likes gents, much appreciated. Thanks Denis, As I wrote: probably not the clearest way to point it out ...
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Railings have been installed as well as the fore ensign mast with it's pass through whatcha-me-call-it. Made it from a small slice of flat brass and 0.5mm rod soldered together with silver paste Painted too, and the remaining 3 hours I've been at tying down two funnels ... a mere 10 threads ... tomorrow the rigging ... hope it goes slightly faster
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I found it more effective to finish the hull, give it a mat or satin coat of lacquer, and move on to the deck and super structures. You do not need to bother about the hull anymore, once you have applied lacquer
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- mikasa
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what's the width of your masking tape for the oil canning, and the distance between the vertical strands? Do you maintain the same distances for different ships at the same scale? From what I see every line is sprayed seperately ... must be a hell of a job, hence your remark about the tedium of oil canning
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You might get a problem if it is applied on bare brass ... looks very crisp though, can't beat an airbrush at these details
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- mikasa
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Certainly there is, it depends wholely on the type of glass/acrylic you choose. You even can get them non-translucent ...
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Denis, Good to see you can keep her on the road (your car). Some progress too ... Those "tassles", as you call them, are lights, indeed your imagination comes in handy ... they are supposed to be on he rear side, as the mast should lean backwards, as does yours. The fact the brass looks like tassles is merely the result of it's flatness. Never seen flat lights from that time period ... A pitty they didn't gave us something more realistic to play with ... Lou, you should remember:"What goes around, comes around" ...
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- showcase models
- vendetta
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You did well. Revell isn't known for it's clean kits, at least by me, so you'll have some cleaning up to do as you stated. I'm not very fond of Eduard ship detail up. They are good at airplaines and should stick to it. But it comes in handy for spare parts , that's what I use the set I bought for. She is looking good
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but for the type of CA, you are on the right track, I use the quick drying version, the thin, else I'm holding those railings forever, at least it feels that way. I start at the side from where I have the largest straight part, so on this model from front to back. I've got those blobs near th rear deck, and the round stern to form, but once the previous part is set, that's easy peasy. I need to make an eye for the bow, to put a cable through, and then I can add the mast and finish the railing. After that ...pulling strings, and a stand, probably clear plexiglass again ... got enough left for some hundred in this size ...
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