capnharv2

CaptainSteve,

I'm sorry to hear that you won't be finishing your Constitution. Your build log was always a joy to visit, and hope you find a suitably fun project soon.

I'm still hammering away on my Connie, after 11 years. Slow progress, but steady.

Take care my friend,

Capnharv

But they'll get lost a lot faster.

Okay, I understand. Thanks!

Harvey

I'm confused. Is this last pic before spraying with the Model Master Black, or did you take all the black off?

Nice build I always wanted to build the plastic model as a kid.

Harvey

Roger,

His follow on book "Easy on the Helm" is also fun reading. I'm not sure of it's applicability to gaff cutter modeling, but it's interesting and insightful. I need to dig it out again.

Never sailed a gaffer? If you're ever in Seattle, drop me a line (I know a guy . . . .).

Seriously, one of the joys of sailing traditional rigs and building models of traditional rigs is the synergy it brings to both hobbies. I've had countless experiences on Amie that helped me build a better model, and countless times my (limited) ship model experience has helped me become a better sailor.

That's why I strongly recommend going aboard and (if possible) take a short sail on a traditional boat. I believe you can build and rig a better model because of it.

Thanks!

Harvey

Hmm. I've got planks on my boat that look like that . . .

Thanks for the tutorial Chuck. I'll try that on the next garboard I install.

Harvey

One other place to look (it may be a red herring, but it's a nice red herring) is the Wooden Boat Forum. This thread is done by a Mystic Seaport Volunteer and documents some of the rebuilding of the Morgan a couple years ago.

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?109593-Charles-W-Morgan-Restoration-A-Volunteer-s-Perspective-1

Again, it may not be very relevant, but it sure is fun to read and look at.

Hope that helps.

Harvey

If you're using the pre-formed eyebolts, I like to slice the shank with an x-acto knife (cutting away from the eye). This creates a little 'spur' at the knife cut that will slide into the hole but won't pull out (without some effort). You don't have to cut much-enough to displace a little of the metal.

Different adhesives will help. Angling the eyebolt in the deck works. Or, as Frankie suggested, making your own.

Hope these suggestions help.

Harvey

Al,

Are you looking to hang the plans near your work area to measure them? Does thee backing have to be firm enough to lay a scale or compass or dividers on?

Another possibility is to take the original plans and have them laminated (or get a copy laminated). That makes them easier to hang and stiffer to get accurate measurements off.

If they're stiff enough you could hang them off the back of a music stand. Tape them in place and you can move the stand anywhere you want at any height you want.

For a while I was taping my Pride of Baltimore plans to the blinds in my shop. Not a great solution, but it did get the job done.

Finally, get a copy of the first set of Ship Modelers Shop Notes (from the NRG store here). There is a section with some good shop ideas.

Hope we've helped.

Thanks,

Harvey

E&T,

If you haven't, it might be useful to mention your work on the Canadian Commemorative stamp, your exhibition at the NMM, and your work as a technical advisor on the AMC series. These are due to your excellent work, and may give you a little more leverage with Occre.

Just a thought. I hope things work out well for you.

Harvey

Are you going to coat it? Otherwise it will age naturally.

Floyd,

Does your wife like the copper plating?

Harvey

FWIW, it looks like it's called a warping fairlead

http://www.nauticexpo.com/boat-manufacturer/warping-fairlead-1024.html

Another book, if you're interested in the how and why of rigging, is Seamanship in the Age of Sail. I've found it to be very interesting and useful

Gary,

I've been following (and enjoyed) your build of the Alfred (almost) since you started it (both here and other forums). You've done some amazing work, and we're glad that you're back!

Harvey

Sorry Danny, but I had to look up the drill size. . .

.15mm is .0059", which (according to Wikipedia) is a #97 drill size. I can't use a #80 without breaking it, so how do you drill holes that small?

I assume PCBs use this size and smaller all the time, but they have accurate locating/drilling jigs and are set up for mass production.

I don't think I have the patience anymore for card models, but it's fascinating to see your work. My compliments.

Harvey

Michael,

It's under the compass app. When you get the compass, just slide it over and you will see the level.

It's fun to play with.

Hope that helps,

Harvey

Thanks Ed. That makes sense, since you don't want to it to fly apart when repairing it in a seaway.

Harvey

Fantastic work Ed-something to aspire to.

Maybe a dumb question, but I'm a little thick headed these days anyway-why are there 4 holes in the block? I understand the 2 for the sheaves and the 1 for attachment, but I don't know what the hole in the middle does-other than to hold the plates together should the block be disassembled for maintenance. Just curious. . .

Thanks again for enlightening us with such beautiful work and clear instructions.

Harvey

Flo

After you drill (or punch or whatever you do) the holes for putty, consider putting some type of sealant (like a flat, clear lacquer) in the holes before putting the putty in. That should help keep the stain in the putty from migrating into the end grain of the holly. One nice thing about putting a clear finish in the holes is that you should be able to scrape the deck to get any excess off.

Just a thought.

Hope that helps.

Thanks,

Harvey

If you're looking at rigging complexity, the Rattlesnake has 3 masts, the Niagara has 2. I suspect the Niagara would be easier to rig.

Also, running rigging is simplified if you don't have sails. An interesting trade in complexity would be Niagara with sails vs. Rattlesnake without.

Hope that helps,

Thanks,

Harvey

Sorry to hear of your medical issues Mark. I'm glad you're on the mend.

Harvey

Don't forget to neutralize it when your done bleaching. I believe baking soda is the preferred neutralizer.

Rebecca Whitman's book "Brightwork" recommends a thick paste of oxalic acid crystals in hot water.

But I've given up on bleaching wood. My new toerails are iroko. I'll post pics when I get them installed.

Harvey

My wife had cataract surgery a couple years ago. Her comment after surgery-"Wow, the trees have leaves again!". Recovery is pretty fast too. She had to take antibiotic eye drops for a month or so, and that was pretty much it.

Yes, it can be pricey. But, if you can afford it, the surgery can correct other vision problems at the same time.

Good luck Nenad. I hope things work out well for you.

Harvey

Beautiful! I like how crisp and clean everything is!

Harvey