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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. Many thanks Grant, Patrick, Carl, Rob and Denis, for your nice comments and words.... Grant, agree, it helps quite well to compare with the own fingers... Patrick, pleased you like it, as you are the specialist for midget ships... Carl, the railings copper or brass will be painted in place, I`ll do some masking off along the decks before, before the wooden handrail goes on Denis, some of the blackened copper eye-bolts still require close-bending, but I must be carefull, as they sometimes break off, (this hapened a few times before already) and it is very tricky to place in new ones from under the deck (the end with the counter flat head). At least they do`nt "open" due to stresses in the wires. Next time I`ll use brass or steel ones Nils
  2. Update : ladders to the midships platform, railings to the lower bridge, and supports for the upper bridge (railings still require some straight bending, wooden handrails and paint) the structures in the light tower areas require some filler material before final painting.... Nils several stairways attached boats winch in foreground, the whole boatsdeck is crowded with "detail structures", I`m quite pleased that all could find its place in accordance with the actual ship supports for upper bridge, railings for lower bridge, light tower areas require some filler and repainting. Left some fingertips in the pic for scaling all fragile parts, I do`nt think its so wise to choose that small scale again those upper railing wires hardly withstand touching, structure here filler is needed
  3. Thank you so much for your appreciative coments Bob and Rob...., Bob, two wire clamps...., thats due to the learning experience I went through, I remember with the "Heinrich Kayser" steamship I only had one clamp per guy wire and it pulled / slipped out slowly, also I wanted to do something good and used stainless steel wires to avoid oxidizing, there was also trouble with the soldering of stainles steel wire, but all that was much regretted later on. With Gorch Fock and Pamir I started using exclusively tin galvanized steel wires and two clamps on the wire with more success Rob, correct, that is also my aim to complete a model and complete means to close the bonnet of the glass casing over the ship. Sometimes (per coinsidence) when viewing the net I come across information on ships, photos, details, etc. of which I consider it worth saving for a day I would need it. This is then put in a special file archive of my PC.... Nils
  4. I`m wishing you a "happy keellaying" session Bob, have fun preparing your Halifax... Nils
  5. Thank you very much Denis, Jeff and Greg, for your nice words, much appreciated.... Thanks to all the other recent "likes" for clicking in... Denis, I had two diam. sizes of wire and chose the thinner (0,3 mm) one, which would be 43 mm cable diam. on the actual ship .... Jeff, I still have`nt made up my mind yet for what project would be next on the drawing table.... Greg, there is still quite a lot to be done...... all the rigging with blocks etc. for cargo derricks and beams, also the winches on the aft ship and aft mast, all the ships boats, the davits and their rigging, and last not least, the command bridge with all its associated relings, bridge-wing cabs, and others, etc. ... Nils
  6. Bob, congratulations to completion of this excellent and beautiful built bomb vessel. It is very nicely detailed and there is so much to discover, when exploring the photographs In all, well done ! Nils
  7. Hi Carl, in answer to your earlier question, I would like to provide this illustration : this is what the funnel guy wires will be like, here I started with funnel 3 + 4 The steel wires are 0,3 mm diam. normaly used for wire controlled model aircraft. The fact that they are tin-galvanized coated provides excellent soldering possibilities. The buckle screws are smallest I could find (M1,4 left /right thread), I blackened these chemically. The small center drilled nickel beads are from a fashion jewelery store Nils
  8. Thanks Carl, please ref to my post-text #2112, for tightening the wires there will be turnbuckle screws attached to the deck, (Spannschrauben) for each "funnel stay". These black threads are only preliminary for checking reasons as mentioned.... Nils
  9. small update : all the fastening points for the funnel guy wires are placed. In order to check if they go clear with the structures and they do`nt foul the vents and the boats, I put on preliminary thin polyester threads that resemble the tin coated steel wires that will be attached in their place and each one spanned with its own buckle screw. It looks like all is clear to go.... Nils
  10. Hi Cathead, nice technique for making sails, its really an alternative approach to sailcloth and looks great... Nils
  11. Hi Dan, now thats a challenge in 1:350 !! I remember when the "Michelangelo" together with her sister "Raffaello" set the Italian elegance bar for design of fast Atlantic liners, and what a sight in those days ! Congrats to your choise, a very ambitious project you are preparing for, but I know you can do it, and I wish you all the best with this lovely build... Nils
  12. Hi Bob, will the schooner "Halifax" be a scratch build to a plan (because of the lumberyard timbering set) ?, and what scale will it be ? Nils
  13. Very nice Amalio, I like the way you display the different stages of work on your hull, including sight to the beautiful lower levels of framework and non planked areas... Nils
  14. Wow ! interesting details on the drawing Bob, I think it realy pays off to get copies of the the original drwg from the source you mentioned.... Nils
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