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Kevin-the-lubber

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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber

  1. Kevin-the-lubber
    Have you thought of making it from card, possibly stiffening this up with diluted wood glue to reduce feathering? Just thinking that it’s much easier to cut card with a scalpel than plastic. (It doesn’t really help but this would probably come out well as a resin print). ps. Not just any old card - I mean the good quality, smooth surface stuff from an art supplies shop.
  2. Kevin-the-lubber
    I stuck with it all the way until I just couldn't do what I wanted any more. Every so often I have reason to go back into my TinkerCAD account, usually to retrieve something I made for gardening or DIY, and I'm surprised at just how much you can do with it.
  3. Kevin-the-lubber
    Are you still using TinkerCAD? In F360 (and, I imagine most of CAD packages) you’d quickly loft this. It looks like you’ve already become very adept at 3D Ian. The scraps photo made me smile. I bet we all have a big box like that somewhere in the workshop!
  4. Kevin-the-lubber
    This is an amazing build Michael, I will need to read the whole log as at first I thought this was a scratch build, wood POF at something like 1:78! Your Victory is beautiful too, and as for the Vasa - gosh, you really do rise to the challenge, don't you!
  5. Kevin-the-lubber
    It still looks great from here. As others have said, maybe inspiration will come with the passage of a bit of time, but in any case maybe you could look at it as a 99% success, which really isn't bad score, is it. There are some exquisite models on this site but I think this kit is on another level in terms of complexity and detail.
  6. Kevin-the-lubber
    Yes, this resin can be machined, but do be careful, resin has a relatively low breaking threshold. If I was you I would ask them to give me some scrap pieces if possible, to practice on, or else get an extra print done. That said, you might be surprised at just how thin parts can be printed. I regularly print objects with walls that are only 0.2mm thick, including tubes. However the risk of print failure is higher on these parts, which increases costs, so commercial printers may be reluctant to take that risk.
  7. Kevin-the-lubber
    Go for the elegoo abs-like grey. This will have a bit of flex whereas the elegoo standard will be more rigid and prone to breaking. Grey is a very good colour for seeing the detail quality.
  8. Kevin-the-lubber
    Dave, list the options or the company and I'll have a look. For best detail you'll want it printed in resin and, generally speaking, for non-functional model parts you are not going to need anything exotic and their default option will probably suffice.
  9. Kevin-the-lubber
    I don't think I'd say it's 'out-of-range' but it depends on what you prefer and how much work it would be to try to lighten it.
  10. Kevin-the-lubber
    For what it’s worth, as a ex-mountaineer and caver I would often coil rope around an arm and lay it down on the ground, where it would look just like Marc’s coils. I agree that some very stiff rope, especially when new, can want to do it’s own thing but even hemp or bark/grass rope softens fairly quickly. (On the climbing and caving side, most of us would have paid more for a rope that did behave rather than continually kinking. We used to have to regularly drag 50 metres of rope along the ground to get the kinks out and stop it twisting during coiling).
  11. Kevin-the-lubber
    While I haven't noticed any F360 workshops on here, there is a huge amount of free tuition on youtube and back in the day, my go-to was Kevin Kennedy. I can't help you with vectric or carveco but for what it's worth, I would start with free software and take it from there before spending $300+ on something I might not like.
  12. Kevin-the-lubber
    I thought I'd give 1.5mm a go again, as I'll probably want to try using these myself shortly. It's worth saying that a 1.5mm block is close to half the size of a 2mm, in terms of surface area, i.e. it's not just a tad smaller, it is a LOT smaller! As expected I had to ream out the through hole and still couldn't get 0.1mm thread through, so I used some 34g beading wire (0.2mm) as a proof-of-concept proxy. I fear thread of the same diameter might look a bit too large for the block and the thinnest possible might be the way to go. My takeaway conclusion is that 1.5 is bordering on insanely small, but still doable so long as you have a bottomless well of determination 🙂and I know, by putting it next to a victory 12lb-er, that it just looks more 'right' than the 2mm. Maybe the solution (for me at least) is a compromise, 1.7mm or 1.8mm.
  13. Kevin-the-lubber
    1.5mm blocks… that is incredibly small, isn’t it, but if anyone can manage those it’ll be you Marc. It’s probably do-able using a resin printer but the real challenge is the through-hole, chances are that this will close up and need opening out by hand on each block. Plus the walls will almost certainly be wafer thin and fragile, although that’s less of an issue. What size thread is being used for the ropes? For that matter, is the block design for the SR significantly different to later ships like the Victory?
  14. Kevin-the-lubber
    I’m guessing you’ve done that before? Either way, you certainly got a great result. The parts look much better than if you’d masked the polished areas, maybe because the transition edge is smoother.
  15. Kevin-the-lubber
    Looks good! That EzeTissue is tough stuff, I’ve used it while experimenting and it doesn’t tear easily. My issue has been that I can’t get it to stretch or deform. When I’ve made a half-furled sail (albeit a not good enough example) using well dampened tissue, and spread the tissue flat again when I give up, it’s exactly the shape it was when I cut it out. I haven’t tried using dope, does it make the fabric pliable?
  16. Kevin-the-lubber
    Insane level of detail! MFH certainly give VFM. And I love the steering wheel, from here it looks quite like walnut.
  17. Kevin-the-lubber
    Yup, macro is an evil something, isn't it. The worst of it is that getting back into model-making led me to buy a new camera and 2 macro lenses, which shows up every last, tiny blemish. Vaseline all over the lens is the way to go 😄. I can't wait to see the engine in the bay, this one super-realistic model kit!
  18. Kevin-the-lubber
    I’m late to the party but have to say what an incredible model and build. You are being way too hard on yourself Rob (says one perfectionist to another) and you are clearly more than up to this challenge!
  19. Kevin-the-lubber
    Commiserations. I realise this is a little superficial, but I’m not sure I’d really want to work for an organisation that doesn’t have the courtesy to call each of the final four personally. It’s never a nice task but it’s an important one. I had a comparable experience 20 odd years ago and, on reflection, realised I hadn’t liked them nor they me. I figured that might have been because we had different values. So maybe you’ve had a lucky escape. Anyway, I wasn’t even aware of the Scott Polar Research Institute in Cambridge. That’s now added to the must visit list! There is also a beautiful botanical garden near Cambridge, Anglesey Abbey, so I can kill two birds with one stone.
  20. Kevin-the-lubber
    Mark, you haven’t mentioned having these fretworks 3D printed and I don’t know if that’s a deliberate omission or not. But as you don’t seem completely averse to plastic that is another option. Or, going down the lost resin (lost wax in old money) casting route. In either instance the printing would probably be very straightforward and there would be no stress of the parts when glued in place. The hard part is creating the 3D designs in CAD. However, if you have clear dimensions to work from it may not be so difficult. Alternatively, you could probably apply the thin boxwood approach to styrene sheet. Marc (Hubac’s historian) has done some amazing styrene carving on his Soleil Royale.
  21. Kevin-the-lubber
    Have you tried getting quotes from CraftCloud, searching ebay for "3d printing service", or asking on here for the same? I can see offers of about $5 + postage for the lower wheel on craftcloud, which seems pretty reasonable. If you only want a few bits for the model this may be the most cost effective way of doing it. You'll need these wheels printed in resin, the quality would be quite poor using filament. Personally, wherever possible I would always scale in the design software. In fact I never really scale, I replicate to the scale I want. This is a bit more work than scaling but not nearly as much as doing the initial design. I do this because I typically have a 0.15mm - 0.2mm clearance between parts that fit together, which applies to the majority of things I make. If I simply scaled down, the clearance would be too tight, scaling up would make it too gappy. Reworking maintains the correct clearance. With very small parts it also allows me to adjust the sectional dimensions while maintaining the overall part size (more or less) i.e. I would bump up the 0.8mm cross section on that upper wheel to 1.0mm, making it 25% stronger but without really affecting the optics. Anyway, as you've decided to go with 1/18 the parts will be fairly robust.
  22. Kevin-the-lubber
    As Pat has made this freely available you should be free to use the STL's. Attached are the wheels, scaled down to 1:24 & 1:27. It's a little hard to say for sure how small you could go without first knowing the thickness of the thinnest part, but a quick run through suggests he used 1/16" as a typical diameter and thickness for thin rods, planks and boards. If you go to 1:24 all of that will be 0.8mm which is slightly on the thin side but fine for a static model, possibly even okay for an RC once it's all assembled. If you scale down any further then it'll start to become a little fragile, especially for an RC. wheels.zip
  23. Kevin-the-lubber
    I thought I recognised this - the Patrick Matthews build, yes? The photo you showed, from Patrick's build log, is almost certainly of resin cast parts but these can just as easily be printed. As you're in FreeCad, find them and export them as STL's and they'll be good to print. The upper steering wheel is going to be pretty skinny at 1:24, about 1mm sectional diameter. But still perfectly printable.
  24. Kevin-the-lubber
    What you've got here is a very nice 3D model of the whole boat at 36 inches long, give or take a bit. There are 579 different parts, which I'm attaching in the zip. On my PC, I have a preview pane in my file explorer, which would allow you to go through the unpacked zip more quickly. I have to dash now but will follow up later. Pilar v291 Bodies.zip
  25. Kevin-the-lubber
    Dave, I don't mind doing that for you. At the least, I'll convert it into STL format and you can then open that in TinkerCad https://www.tinkercad.com/login which is probably the easiest form of CAD for a beginner, and have a look for yourself. Just send it via messaging or attach it here.

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