Toolmaker

A simple method of aligning the tailstock is to;

place a piece of stock bar between chuck and tailstock centre

take a small cut on the diameter of the stock bar at the headstock end

measure diameter and set your cross slide dial to zero at depth of cut position

repeat the same depth of cut at the tailstock end of the bar and measure the diameter 

if they are the same you are good to go. If they are different you need to move the tailstock by half the difference in diameter (towards you if the diameter is bigger at the tailstock end) and then repeat the process until they measure the same.

Do this with the longest length you can fit between headstock and tailstock and you should be correct with the tailstock at any position along the bed. If parallel cutting varies when you move the tailstock, then the lathe bed is twisted. That can often be corrected by jacking the feet on the lathe. I don’t expect you to have these issues on such a short bed machine.

All the above should be done after you have set the headstock/saddle square. Bar in chuck, take a skim cut over say 50mm length and measure for parallel. If it’s not then adjust the headstock until it is.

Regarding the cutting tools;

The better the ground finish the better the cutting results as with a coarse finish you are more likely to get a “built up edge” if you are machining steels. This built up edge can be regularly removed by dressing your tools with a piece of wet stone.

Successful grinding of lathe tools and drills is a skilled task. Approach, side & front clearance, and rake are all different angles that all need to be considered when grinding tools. For drills it is backing off and point thinning etc.

I doubt that many people grind/sharpen drills these days and I think it’s right to consider whether it’s worth grinding standard lathe tools anymore. Indexable carbide inserts for turning are so much cheaper now that they might be considered a better alternative to grinding “in house”. I don’t know if indexable insert tool holders are available for your lathe but they are available in small sizes. Certainly 10mm square or less.

Worth a thought

Any questions, please feel free to ask as I have done a fair bit of lathe work in the past.

Cheers

Paul

This might be a useful link for Taig owners;

https://www.cartertools.com

I must apologise for my initial answer as I believed you had received the books but were complaining about the time taken for them to be delivered. It was lost in translation.

I think you must try to contact Seawatch and follow the advice they offer. Hopefully it will be fixed to your satisfaction.

Dave, I have that same make and model and it has worked fine for as long as I can remember. Maybe ask for an exchange unit.

I don’t use mine for soldering but I like it for hardening, annealing etc. I also use it with that tip you are showing for heating wood planks or the like needing removal. Works a treat for softening the glue.

I have also ordered books from Seawatch which arrived.

Mine only took 2 weeks and not 4 like yours did but mine were not caught up in the Christmas Post, as I ordered them in the summer.

I’m not sure what you want help with?

On 11/25/2023 at 5:22 PM, No Idea said:

Hi Huw - I sent you a message a couple of weeks ago but not heard anything back?

On 11/30/2023 at 7:59 PM, allanyed said:

Huw

Is your post an offer to sell your boxwood?

Allan

Maybe this link will help close that circle. Seems like this is where it originated

https://ebts.org/uk/2021/the-best-english-boxwood-is-to-be-found-in-wales/

That’s great to know as I have a number of their clamps. I really like them.
I thought I might write and tell them that one flew off recently and I haven’t been able to locate it!!! 😂

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

The lead character played by Ed Harris will be building my Medway Longboat kit in his workshop.

That’s fantastic Chuck. Is Ed going to be looking in on this forum (in the film)?

Before I became a wooden ship modeller I was in a period of photo etch heaven. I couldn’t get enough of it.

This kit was top of my list at the time. I’ve seen the kit in the box and I have seen it finished and it is a fantastic opportunity.

I say opportunity as it is also a major challenge. 👍🏼👍🏼

13 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I’ve never visited this forum, sounds like I will continue not to 🤣

I think it’s safe to look in now Glenn. I’ve just had a nosey around and it’s full of interest for model ship builders (it was orrible before).

Ignoring any issues about import and export when buying model ships I think Chris has done more recently than anyone to retain newcomers to the hobby. A few years ago I cut my teeth on a number of Vanguard kits and whenever I see that question about suitable kits for beginners I always advise starting with a Vanguard kit. It makes even more sense if your this side of the Atlantic pond, hence my opening line.

Chris has taken top quality materials and used the latest technologies to provide the best chance of fulfilment. Together with those fab instructions put together by James H and you have a truly winning combination. I hope he continues to have belief in himself and in his decision making. 
Believe it or not, I don’t work for Vanguard 😂. In fact, I don’t build their kits these days but without them I don’t believe I would have got to what I am building now.

Cheers Chris, keep going, it’s a fine legacy.

Thanks

Paul

I’m in line with OllieS here. It’s likely not an issue with the drop plank in particular but perhaps with enthusiasm for the hobby in general. This hobby enthusiasm ebbs and flows for most people. Some get it back again (sometimes again and again) and some people give up a hobby as, not for them.

A hobby is a choice, and one that should be enjoyed. 

Regarding Cheerful in particular, I am doing the same build. It has been a challenge which is good. It is not perfect, unlike the one in the instruction book which leads to some frustration, but it is a big improvement on my previous build. You could leave the drop plank and go inboard. False deck, inboard planking, deck planking. This might help to restore the passion.

I have been building wooden ships for about 4 years and only now do I feel slightly competent.

Lastly I mention the hobby working environment. If you don’t like being in the basement then you are unlikely to want to spend time there. 
 

Regards

Paul

That’s come up really well Richard. Finished in keeping with the effort put in. Fab.

Its impressive that the spindle is tapered and even has a drift slot for tool removal.

I’m on the watch out for your next build.

Thanks

Paul

14 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

Nothing screams "1960's" like a polyester resin-covered hatch cover coffee table on an avocado green shag carpet. Today's kids just wouldn't get it.   

 

 

Those heady days when folks continued the carpeting up the side of the bath!

16 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Instead, use a jeweler's saw to saw through all the rings on the mandrel in a single saw cut

Bob, can you fill me in with a bit more information on the “jeweller’s saw” please. Is it realistic to saw 0.2mm/0.008” wire with the saw. Using a saw relies on at least 2 teeth straddling the material so said material doesn’t fall between the teeth, hence the thinner the material the greater the tpi. If you have the detail, what is the traditional tpi on a jewellers saw or is it a diamond impregnated wire blade?

Thanks

Paul

23 hours ago, allanyed said:

Thanks Paul, much appreciated.

I usually do the same, but to be to scale I needed to use 30 gauge wire and it does not work so neatly.   Thanks again!!  

Allan

Ah yes Allen, I see what you mean. The wire I’m showing was more like 26 gauge.

Depending on functionality and if painting is an option, you can get lead wire down to, and finer than, 30 gauge. From a modelling perspective, it has all sorts of uses and is easy to work with.

cheers

Paul

I would echo what Glenn said above. Here is a link to a typical instruction manual that comes with the Vanguard models. This particular kit is ideal for beginners as the hull shape is forgiving of skill.

https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Fifie_construction_manual.pdf

I hope that is helpful.

Regards

Paul

58 minutes ago, No Idea said:

This is now my go to blade for ripping planks.

Hi Mark,

Do you have a link for a supplier of these. The company website is unclear.

Thanks

Paul

6 hours ago, allanyed said:

That's the truth.  I just made a couple using 30 gage and it was tricky.  I wrapped the wire around a drill bit of the appropriate diameter then removed the "spring" and clipped the rings.  How do you make your rings?

Allan

 

 

I have used this method myself Allan, as seen here.

I was using pre-painted wire.

The ship in question was ww2 era, hence the painted wire. The wire was soft enough to cut with a scalpel.

I hope the pictures are helpful to someone.

Regards

Paul

How I manage to miss these I will never know. Today is the first time I have spotted this and it’s virtually finished. So well done on your latest machine tool. It’s another beaut. You certainly went to town on the base casting and pushed on from there without too many issues. As for the broken tap, cast aluminium can be a little “sticky”. The only advice I can offer is to make sure that your hole at the top of the tapping size or even a little over and use some switch cleaner or paraffin.

Another lovely edition to your miniature workshop. I shall try to keep up and catch the start next time.

Regards

Paul

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Definitely not the one I have.  I will do a bit of research to see what I can find similar to your yours.  Thanks Paul

Allan

Allan it was Veritas, this is photo from a uk supplier. It’s not a link as they often disappear but it shows what you are looking for.

Regards

Paul

55 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

The title of this thread is true of most tools, not just chisels.

 

No arguments from me on that point 👍🏼

4 hours ago, Jaager said:

An additional step,  and if done after every few cuts,  can really delay a need to revisit the water stones is to strop on a medium like scrap leather charged with gold, green, or rouge compound.

Serious input, thanks. I have to say that these little chisels hold a great edge for weeks/months from a single sharpening.

4 hours ago, allanyed said:

I love the tool holder.  I have one but it is a Veritas and a great device but it has not worked for me on my very narrow carving chisels.   Is the holder/guide you use commercially available?

Thanks!!

Allan

I hope I’m not going to disappoint here, but the holder is a veritas model if memory serves me right.

Tighten it as hard as possible and then sharpen from that position. Don’t remove until done.

I’ve just sharpened my miniature chisels for the second time

I bought these with a large dose of scepticism as apart from 4 years rearing chickens I have spent all my professional life in the pursuit of the best cutting tools. I’m in my mid sixties now, so that’s been a while.

As expected, when they arrived they were not finished when it came to edge confirmation. I spent the best part of a day getting them  to where I thought they could best perform.

I have just completed the hull on the Syren model HMS Cheerful which has been done in Costello Boxwood. These chisels have been exemplary. I can happily state that the whole process would have been much more difficult without them.

Those previous 2 pictures are trying to show that the steel used is good enough to take a “shaving” edge. I know it’s a little bizarre to shave your own hand and I accept no responsibility for any of you attempting similar, but it does prove a point.

This is a simple set up using 600, 1000 and 3000 grit stones in a sunken bath of water.

After completing a hull, it took less than an hour to reinstate a good edge on all three chisels.

Its not easy to get a good shot of the edge with a phone camera.

Get in touch if I can help with your chisel sharpening challenge. I’m sure you recognise these chisels and I have no relationship to the manufacturer. They are however the real deal, albeit in miniature.

Cheers folks, I hope that might be useful.

regards

Paul

Hi Rob,

I’ve not commented on your more recent builds, but I have enjoyed following along immensely.

I feel your pain regarding rigging, or in fact any other aspect of modelling that we might struggle with to match our peers.
To that end, I have a good friend who is a very accomplished modeller, he is an IPMS Championship winner in the UK and his work is well respected in aircraft modelling magazines. He recently told me how he would “love” to copy my model ship woodwork, but felt he was rubbish at woodwork.
Now I know he would be fantastic at doing wooden ship models, (eventually), but of course the “apprenticeship is still x number of years”, and that won’t be full of walk in the park fun.

Myself, I have been a confident airbrusher, hey I could spray, clean the airbrush and spray again six time an hour. I used to solder 0.5mm brass for fun, but for the past 3 years I have struggled with wood ship building. Thankfully I am improving (I realise that’s only my opinion) and I am committed to this part of the hobby as I have sold all my plastic kits.

I think the upshot is that some of the model making skills take years to master and like with anything if you don’t keep updating those skills you will lose them.

“Jack of all trades, master of none” was a saying from my youth and it still stands today. I think eventually you will probably decide to focus more on what you enjoy, which of course is obvious as long as it remains a hobby.

Aside from the modelling, I enjoy your open approach and collective sharing. Thank you.

Cheers bud

Regards

Paul