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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Good start mate - keep a good eye on the bow to ensure the planking runs are parallel/same heigh, it is surprising how easy this gets uneven when starting to spile etc. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Coming along very nicely Keith. Enjoy the holiday mate, I'll pass on your 'apologies' at our next meeting. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    I have also started on the next small job - anchor buoys The stock is some left over material from my masts, which I have turned to 9mm then shaped using a compound slide mounted on the y axis plate of my mill. Some worke still needed to finalise the final shape. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Another small update. the spritsail topsail yard is now fitted and some rigging advanced. The colour of the yards will mature to the darker colour in time but the photos show this much redder than they actually are - in reality they are more brown. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi again all, Following up on the above discussion, I found a reference (Marquardt) that suggests that the length of the ensign staff above the taffrail is 1/3 the height of the Main Mast (Endeavour = 24yds 4 "). This is 868" or 22047mm. That would make the ensign staff length above the taffrail = 122.48mm at scale 1:60. Using the rule of thumb suggested by Druxey is the hoist appears to be about 2/3 this length, then this would translate to 80.65mm length of hoist for the Ensign. Therefore ,the Ensign at scale 1:60 would be (at 3:5) 80.65 hoist x 134.42 fly. Can anyone find any error in this calculation? Marquardt did not cite his source for earlier 'rule' but I will continue to research. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Enjoy the break - you may still be waiting on the US stuff when you get back - I have to agree it is painfully slow and very expensive to boot! cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi folks, an update on the parrels. I have not been able to source new beads yet but I have remade the parrels from privet (I had a nice heart piece that worked much the same as boxwood - Thanks Jim Lad). I had not mentioned earlier that the base shape was created by thicknessing stock to suitable size, then using my mill with a round over cutter down the middle and on both edges to create the profile. These were then sliced off and cleaned up with small files and sanding sticks. I stained them with an Aussie product (a stain made by bushies in the outback when they had nothing else which imparts a nice colour as it ages). The photos below also show the different items used to create the holes including a dental micro-motor with ball head which created a much neater dimple than the hand tools I used previously. The finsished parrels look OK and if I do not find bigger beads in time I think I can live with these. The finished product phot also shows a privet parrel (raw and stained) compared to the red gum version. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Great detail Greg, a real nice mdel. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    First class job there mate; looks great. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Very nice joinery Danny; now for your next masterpiece I will expect to see a fully functioning chain pump.... cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Thanks Mark, Steve and Greg; I will stil try to find some larger beads if I can as I would like to retry these parrels in 'privet' also. The two bead shops we had locally have shut down unfortunately so off to farther pastures.... Don't worry about deleting the photos Steve, they help add to the story and I certainly don't mind. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Bluenose 2 - I would try looking at the 1:72 plastic/resin kit upgrade kits etc from the like of White Ensign or L'Arsenal or Hannants etc. These suppliers produce PhotoEtch, resin, metal upgrade/up-detail kits/parts for many ship models in particular the steel-navy. You might even get lucky and find a set specific to the ship you are doing; but. more likely you may have to get a bit here, a bit there. I know for instance there are many parts for Flower class corvettes. A google search on say "1:72 ship model detail parts" will get you pointed in the right direction. It is then a matter of drilling down to find the scale/parts you need. More specific searchs on ship class or name may be more fruitful. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Thanks Steve, that resolves the issue for me - now to source some larger beads Mark - I don't know whether to thank or curse you - Nah! Many thanks for the head's up mate. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi Chris and a belated welcome to the Endeavour Club - I have been quite remiss in missing your build. Your progress is good and the results look very promising - especially like the Kaurie deck planking. You have done well with the wales mate, I didn't even try to joint the wales back when I started. My build has progressively improved in detail accuracy, as when I started I was just learning how to; now, everything above the deck planks is scratch built. Kaurie is a great planking material, a couple of our club members use it extensively. Our Club President, whose model features in Karl Marquardt's book, built his model using the skeleton of the AL Kit (backbone and bulkheads) but then everything was scratch built using Kaurie only. I'll join the audience and follow your build from here on in. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, welcome back Some nice progress on the RW mate - I'd do the columns in acrylic also - adds that extra nice detail. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks again all for looking in and the likes. Chris - no worries - just cost you a couple of 'frosties' Popeye - thanks mate - slowly getting there. Mark - now you have me thinking - Not sure to be honest - I thought the beads (wooden balls) just created a bearing type effect and were smaller - need to research now - ​ John - now that would be a challenge - but, I need to try some of that privet you provided first. If the saw survives then maybe.... cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    An update on the parrels - still experimenting so the following is not the actual completed product. For example, the beads I used are just as they happened to come out of the packet. Being cheap they are not graded to the same size and many are not evenly shaped etc. For the real deal I will sort/grade these to get a consistent spacing. The parrels are 0.75mm thick and the burning on the parrel pieces are caused by the saw blade - need a new one but will not ruin it cutting this hard wood. I have sanded off some of the char, but then realised these would have been 'greased/tarred' and would end up looking blackish anyway - saved some effort . I also found that stacking the parrels in the temp fixing jig caused the bottom ones to split and crumble when I was drilling so I have reverted to drilling and contouring the holes (for the bearings) individually; more time consuming but less breakages. Anyways - getting there. The parrels are actually quite smooth; the close up and contrast I have added make them look quite rough edged I am also going to try some privet (in the Boxwood family) to see if I get a better finish. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Greg - looks great mate! Too late now I think, but the only option I could think of is to lay the red first then a single strip of masking tape of the appropriate width over it, then paint the other colours either side masking as required? Alternatively, you might consider auto pinstripe (red) and apply it like a decal then a coat of flat clear over it to seal it? cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Great idea Cristi, this is thinking well outside of the proverbial box. Are the disks floating or do they have sufficient backing to keep them parallel across the whole platter when sanding? cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    WOW - thanks for all for looking in here and 'At a Glance' - much appreciate the interest and comments folks, they keep the mind positively focused.. yep John, that was for you Keith, very many thanks for your kind offer the other day. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi John, thanks for looking in. Hope all is well. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi Per, yep it is indigineous to Australia. Being so dense it is resistant to termites and very long lasting wood - they use it for railway sleepers, bridges and fencing due to these properties. Lately, some talented woodworkers have been making some great furniture from it also - but boy, tough on the tools take a look at this link - http://www.kropf.com.au/timber-furniture/river-red-gum.htm cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    I made some further progress with the boom and jib but I have come to a temporary halt while I wait for some more beige line. I had purchased the running rigging thread prior to getting my ropewalk and cannot match the colour, so until my new supplies arrive in the next couple of weeks I have statred on making the parrels. The following photos show Endeavour at her current level of completion and in her display cradle. The top of the cradle is a copy of Cook's Chart for the East Coast of Australia that he drew while surveying his discovery of this part of our country - this has been sealed under a couple of layers of clear poly. There are still many lines/ropes that are only temporary secured waiting for final tensioning and the footropes still need to be stiffened into their final position. I am holding-off doing the final adjustments until I have stopped working in this area so that I don't knock them our or shape, or have to move a rope to fit another etc. The parrels have been made from Red Gum which is a very dense timber, so it will allow me to cut thin clices from the milled shape shown n the photo. I will drill the rope holes with indents for the parrels by hand using a template. The photo shows the stock after thicknessing, the milled shape and the beads I will be using. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Great news - a significant New Year milestone cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Thanks Steve

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