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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Great work on the stern Mark, some defining detail there which will really dress your lady nicely. How long until she is upright? cheers Pat
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Great progress Greg, that is looking good. The 'wine' colouir and lino is very unusual for a deck covering and I would have thought prone to trapping moisture resulting in more ship's husbandry headaches? Must have worked though for them to have persisted with it. cheers Pat
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Thanks Popeye; yep in real life that would be the case and I agree in that some imperfections add a sense of reality - it would have been a very strict ship (and probably a mutinous environment) had these things been that precise cheers and thanks for looking in again Pat
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Lovey bit of engineering and mini-machine production Wefalck - a work of precision art! cheers Pat
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Great attention to detail Danny - are you setting yourself any challenges with this minor build? cheers Pat
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Just an exercise sent to try your patience mate I am assuming (sorry no real other option of word) it is easier for you to cutaway and extend/fill-in other bits of the decking after plugging the hole a bit, than it is to remodel the superstructure? Which is more correct to the scale/actual size of the ship? Good luck but I know you'll be able to salvage the situation. cheers Pat
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Hi Mikie, One way is to mark the small line for the slot, dimple the start point for several drill holes (to stop the bit wandering) and drill out a series of small holes along the line with the appropriately sized micro-drill bit - ensure one hole is at the near top and bottom of the slot. use a sharp blade to score the edge of the slot and cut out the waste; finish with a small file. If you have a mill this can be a lot easier - just ensure you set up the piece in the vice/holding jig on the sliding table accurately. That's how I did mine (at scale 1:60). cheers Pat
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Thanks John, Chris and Mark - glad I was able to recover it. Looking at the photos though show how uneven the line of the deadeyes are - not very seaman like - they actually don't look as bad in reality.
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OK folks, repairs completed. I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks. The following photos show most of the process. I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc. I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly. I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint. One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints What do you think? Cheers Pat
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i again Paul, I have found the lathe invaluable, not just for the jobs you have already identified, but also for creating profiles/mouldings, canon carriages, ship's wheel etc. I have found the Sherline an excellent tool - quality + Sorry mate, wasn't trying to infer that you didn't know it was expensive, just pointing out that for a small job such as the mice/buoys it might not have been value for money. PM me if you need further info. I think it is worth considering if you have some spare pocket money ) cheers Pat
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What a boon that laser cutter is Mark; the new piece is such a dramatic improvement. Now, can you loan it to me to remove (cut away) the capping from my midship channel cheers Pat
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Thanks Mark, I am still debating whether to take the full length of the capping off the channel or just cut a slot and replace it after repairing the chain plate, and using the boat boom (when fitted later) to assist in masking the joints. I am worried that in attempting to remove the full length of capping that I may cause even further damage and with all the rigging on the mast near complete, that would be a tremendous setback. cheers Pat
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No worries Greg Hi Paul, Greg is right - I only used the lathe as I had it - a (grown up) file or even sanding stick (with appropriate grits) will work equally as well (just take much longer). The lathe I use is not a cheap solution as I have a Sherline (metric version with extended bed) and I used the compound sliding plate/rail. Sherline is not cheap but you get what you pay for. A cheaper mill will work for you but you need to do a lot more tuning and refining to it, and the accessories can be equally as costly in many cases. cheers Pat
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Well worth the effort Danny, a beautiful piece of joinery that compliments the build very nicely! cheers Pat
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Hi all and thanks for looking in. The chain plate issue was caused by me putting too much lateral force (twisting) rather than longitudinal failure. I was trying to tie off a tackle running end on a shroud cleat and must have twisted the chain plate too much in trying to access it. the plate failed where I had soldered the deadeye ring to the chain part of the plate (a photo will follow) Anyways, still trying to determine the best fix. cheers Pat
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Some further progress on the nun (anchor) buoys, with one complete. Not really happy with it, but at this scale 1:60) it is only15mm (core) so I can live with it - next one should be better. That said, still a bit unhappy with the gap due one slightly too long sling leg. I also made one of the ring ropes to large in circumference and it sits a little low. One small disaster today (photos in a couple of days) with one of the chain plates giving way. I need to remove the leading edge /cap of the channel, remove the deadeye lanyard, repair the solder joint and reassemble - one for Danny's boo-boo forum I think Anyway here is the completed nun-buoy - I left the wood natural to simulate a cork core. cheers Pat
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This is an interesting article/discussion Dave which I had seen earlier. i decided to stay with Marquardt as he put a reasobale arguement for his case. cheers Pat [Edit: It's interesting that even for a well documented ship that there is still so much conjecture ]
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