BANYAN

As long as it is a good finish - mirror perfect may be a waste as most surfaces will need final sanding by the modeller in most circumstances anyway? cheers Pat

I don't use the Hahn method - having a poll that does not include Not Applicable may skew the responses a little? cheers Pat

Varied strip lengths would be OK as long as they are long enough to do the job - I would not appreciate lengths that required me to make scarfs/joints etc where not actually needed, or I would end up with a lot of useless offcut lengths from the strip - useable lengths (sorry cannot quantify but dependent on the scale) - having a selection of lengths (user specifies) would resolve some of the scale issues and minimise the 'over ordering to meet a need' issue? cheers Pat

A great initiative mate cheers Pat

All fits very nicely so far Mark - practice makes perfect? cheers Pat

Welcome to the Endeavour build club Ollie - I am building the AL version only. Well, I used the kit for the basic hull and threw the rest out - the remainder is scratch based on Marquardt and other research. I wish I had replaced the timber for the hull also =, but it was a lesson learned In my battle station I used holly for the deck and it turned out very nice. For our club's build (HMCSS Victoria) we are using birch - I''' post a photo but it may be a bit late for you noting the speed you work at I have also bought some Vic Ash (Mountain ash is another name I think) to see how that goes in my Syren build. For the hull, I have used Kauri pine in the Victoria build and it is wonderful to work with - it is a great colour if you wish to leave the timber natural? Good luck mate; I'll follow closely. cheers Pat

Looks great Greg, that is a very nice treatment of the transom. cheers Pat

That's real nice work on your ratlines mate, especially as this is your first go! cheers Pat

Thanks for the regular updates Alan, an interesting project to watch. I am even contemplating updating my desk with a lift - great adjustment during the rigging phase especially. That is if my son doesn't come aknockin' cheers Pat

Thanks Oliver, thanks for the feedback. It is nice to look at you 3D model as it gives some interesting perspectives as to what it might have been on deck. this is sometimes more realistic in a 3D drawing rather than a model as it is more "subsmersive" and makes you much the same scale. cheers Pat

She's lookin' great Ron, nice work. I'll have to drag up the duds as I think you'll catch me before I know it cheers Pat

Hi Ollie, great to hear you are enjoying the journey. Apart from you learning, logs such as yours are interesting to follow, not simply for the build what others can learn along the way also. Your log has helped me in the case of the ratlines (thanks John) as that was a tid-bit I wasn't aware of. keep pluggin' on mate, the build is looking great! cheers Pat

hi - a name would be nice I am modelling Endeavour so I find you project fascinating. You have done a great job with her so far, especially with some of the textures and finishes. Looks great! One point you may wish to research a little more is the colour of her bottom. From the research I have conducted, I believe she had "brown stuff" and not the white lead payed bottom - just for consideration cheers Pat

Thanks Moo, a good article. cheers Pat

Lookin' good John, she will make a very pretty little craft indeed. Odd about the frames knowing your penchant for accuracy; but, as you say it can be fixed later. cheers Pat

And so the Pagoda takes shape - it is isn't it? Seriously though Mark, this is looking good so far. I must have missed a post as I thought you were reconsidering the Hahn method? cheers Pat

Nice work Piet; now while your at it and have a nice work flow going - I'll have a dozen cheers Pat

Very clean work Danny, the result is stunning and makes a difficult shaping task look easy - always the sign of a good tradesman. cheers Pat

The type and quality of the stock thread is important when it comes to making scale rope - there are some Cordenet crochet threads, that at some scales looks OK off the spool for small scale stuff, but if you are making up scale rope, there are a few considerations for you to ponder. You need to minimise stretch so a lot of users go for cotton or linen for this; if you use poly you need to stretch the rope a bit to 'set it' after it is made up to remove the elasticity otherwise it will 'change' tension on the ship with use and humidity etc. You should also try to find a thread that has little or no fuzz to it, not just off the spool but also after working it. You also need to find the right lay stock. You need LH lay to properly make up RH lay scale rope. If you cannot find the right lay, some modellers will find smaller stock thread, make up the appropriate lay and then remake that into the rope desired. You need to do a bit of experimenting to find what stock size you need to get the final dimension of the made up scale rope. Don't let this put you off as once you have found good stock thread, and experimented a little it is actually reasonably easy to make the scale rope (with an appropriate rope walk that is) I have used Gutterman, YLI and Cordenet 100% cotton for stock and each produces good end results. Personally I stay away from poly as while the resulting rope looks really good and has a nice 'feel' to it; the amount it stretches causes me some problems - but I stress that is a personal choice. If making scale rope is a little too fiddly for you at this stage of your hobby there are a couple of good after-market suppliers - you need look no further then Chuck's rope available from his Syren shop for example (no association etc....) - there are several plaudits to his rope in the various build logs. Good luck Pat

Great to see you back at it Rowan, and I trust all goes well for your wife. These types of speed bumps are inevitable with the poor quality / sparseness of the AL Instructions to the point I ignore them completely now and simply follow the Marquardt and Parkin drawings as need for my version of the ship. Good luck with the recovery process, at this stage it should create no further problems down stream once corrected. cheers Pat

Looking great Mark - all you have to do now is remember which mark is which cheers Pat

Hi David, I cheat (oops perhaps I shouldn't admit that ) - for POB kits (as per Hamilton's post) I cut the keel away on the backbone wood from the bottom of the rabbet edge down (after marking it out of course). I then remove sufficient wood from the rabbet area to allow for the total thickness of the planking (bevel the edge) to create the rabbet recess. After assembling the skeleton (backbone and bulkheads) and sometimes even after the hull planking, I fit a new keel which in effect creates the bottom edge of the rabbet for the planking. You can include the stern post and stem in this process also if you wish. If you do it after the planking, my trick is to dry fit the keel before planking and create a couple of alignment holes in the bulkheads which will align with pins in the top of the keel when they are finally fitted (just leave these holes clear when planking). For me this creates a very clean edge to the planking, and if using a good hardwood, provides a better finished keel (stem and stern posts etc if all are done) in which you can add the scarfs etc- and who can tell the difference if you don't tell them cheers Pat

She's coming on very nicely Ollie, some great detail appearing - now onto that wonderful task (chore?) of rigging You may wish to hire some of Danny's (Dan Vad - HMS Vulture Scratch Build) trained rigging spiders cheers Pat

Have fun making sawdust Mark; I'll be way back in those far stalls munching the pop-corn cheers Pat

Now Grant, that is an invitation to much innuendo - sure is better than looking at the south end of a north bound camel though! Oh by the way Rusty, very nice planking; the boxwood looks great! cheers Pat