BANYAN

Hi, a lot of modellers also use nail clippers for this job as the curved and bevelled cutting edges allow a close 'nip'. If you prefer scissors, then a trip to a nearby sewing supplier might be helpful as they could demo a few pair to you to ensure you get what you need? I also use a pair of shears (about 2.5 to 3 inches long I got from a sewing machine shop (also should be available from any sewing supplier) which are essentially a mini-version of shears. these fit the hand well, have a very sharp edge and a very point tip which allows me to get in close. cheers Pat

Beautiful work Karl, a great display of a master craftsman's work. cheers Pat

Hi Ollie, looks great mate! WRT the masts; all my furniture at home is Tassie oak with a clear finish. Over about 5 years this has yellowed to a honey colour but does show the grain. I am not sure what degree of grain you will show and whether this would be similar to the masts of the real vessel in appearance. If you are happy with the wood there might be another finish you could consider. I use Huon pine for my masts and have fond a stain made here in Australian (an outback recipe I t believe) called Bushman's stain. When applied to the Huon pine and finished with a dull cote finish (Testors) I think the colour is very similar to that of the masts of the Endeavour replica. I hope this is useful info for you? cheers Pat

Keith, I have found a guy (railroad modeller) whom used to do it but not sure he is still around. It's cheaper if you can do the artwork, but he also did that but it was on the condition that he fitted it into his own work (time a bit longer ) PM me for details. cheers Pat

Looks good Mark; some great progress on this mini-project- but it is too small to throw the popcorn at; especially from the back rows! cheers Pat

Hi Daniel, I hadn't looked in before and ever so sorry I hadn't - this is a stunning example of the application of experience and determination - absolutely beautiful diorama. It's made my day - thanks Pat

Hi Jay and BW; many thanks for the feed back. BW - I was almost at the same conclusion as you WRT to the ends where I see you settled on an eye. What period/year does your model represent please? Very nice seizing and serving of those pendants by the way. Jay, many thanks and that sort of confirms Parkins and Marquardt. I will have a look at an on-line copy of Falconer to see what he defines. I am currently using a single block to which the standing end of the tackle was fitted, with a single block at the running end, and which results in the falls being downward from the upper block to provide mechanical advantage. This is what Parkin shows, and both seem to think that for the mizzen burton pendant, the tackle was permanently rigged with the bottom block secured to an eyebolt on the mizzen channel, slightly inboard of and between the first and second shroud pairs. I now just need to determine where/how the falls were belayed My current leaning is towards a shroud cleat, or perhaps the closest belaying pin in the associated rail. Many thanks again, this is quite helpful.

Thanks Russ, I have decided to stay with Parkin as I know he researched fairly thoroughly and I am advised he and Karl had some great "debates' over some fittings etc such as the boomkins. I ma hoping that as they both agreed on this that they agreed their research on these I know they based most of their rigging on Steel anyway. cheers Pat

Well, well - I must say this surprises me - I thought there maybe someone out there who could help shed some light on the subject? In the end I looked at the drawings by Ray Parkin and his arrangement was very similar to that shown (in less detail) by Marquardt. I have decided to go with this even though according to Lees, this arrangement had been superceded by 1700. cheers Pat

Hi all, I am hoping that someone may be able to provide some definitive information to identify how the mizzen burton pendant would have been constructed in HM Bark Endeavour (1768). Hamilton raised this in his log at: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3575-lower-mast-tackles-burton-pendantstackles-top-ropes/?hl=%2Bburton+%2Bpendants I am comfortable with Lee's description but Marquardt shows these as rigged in his drawing but without sufficient detail to see the construction of the pendant and the associated tackle/falls. I see in other logs the advice is to not show the tackle as it would have been rigged as required; however, there is contradictory advice on how the sling end of the pendants are constructed/made up for this period. Anderson also states that up until the end of the 17th century the pendants were constructed with a single block in the hanging end (about level with the carpathans); however, by 1700 this was replaced with a violin block. I have not found any other reference that provides additional information but note quite a few modellers recommend/used a simple eye or eyering. Is there a reference evidence for this? It has also been suggested that as these pendants were used for several tasks (including the tensioning of the shrouds etc) that a single block with two part tackle (permanently in place) is valid to allow the required tackle type to be raised aloft forming a double(?) tackle arrangement - sounds a bit un-seaman-like though?). Some Club members have suggested that the violin block was replaced with two individual blocks (single over double) stropped together in the end of the pendant in a type of reverse violin arrangement? Can anybody please provide any definitive information as to the configuration of the Burton pendant ends/construction for around 1768/1770. cheers Pat

That is so well detailed I am lost for words - excellent craftsmanship! How did you make the fine detail on the bolt heads? Are they individually filed/made? If so, you quality control and consistency is remarkable. cheers Pat

Good to see the model itself last night Rod; and I agree with Keith, that is an excellent effort for a first build - very clean and smooth finish to her. I think she will build into a very nice model mate. cheers Pat

Sorry to hear of the DF Ollie, get well soon we need you back in the shipyard! That's an unusual paint scheme for her. cheers Pat

Great work and superb detaining Remco; these details take the build from great to extraordinary! Always a pleasure to see what new details you have added. Just one very minor query - is the tag just a little large for the sail? cheers Pat

Very very nicer work (as usual) Gary; she is looking great. Always a pleasure to look in on your builds. cheers Pat

Forget about the mumbling mate, the pictures spoke for themselves! An excellent job, the flickering light really enhances the model (which is looking great) - SWEET!!!!! cheers Pat

Hi folks, I would have to agree with Zeh WRT the fog buoy; my experience has been with using the type he has shown (but my experience has been since 1970's). We also used these as 'splash targets' for small arm firings etc. Could the cruciform shape be a 'weight' for attaching to marker buoys such as a danbuoy or the like? We used to drop these as either drifting (unweighted) or static and would in my tme be weighted with a large concrete weight - this looks a little more elegant especially for releasing it? cheers Pat

Hi Jerry, actually it is the other way around -LH lay (S) lays up much stiffer and provides more strength and was generally used in standing rigging where strength was required (such as shrouds stays etc). However, it is not a hard and fast rule that LH lay rope was always used for shrouds etc; sometimes, shroud lay (4 strand) was used etc. RH lay being more flexible was generally used for running rigging. cheers Pat

A nice looking build David, I have added you to my watch list cheers Pat

Hi S.o.s. - could you please advise exactly what part of the process is not working? If you find that the split tube sides are collapsing when bending, then you could try putting a bit of wire (same OD as the ID of the tube) into the channel as you bend it and that might help. If it is that you cannot obtain/bend a circle around the pliers perhaps a temporary jig using an old/broken drill bit of the appropriate OD, set into a wood offcut (secured to the bench or a vice), around which to form the ring might assist - similar to making wire rings. These two ideas can work together as a combination as I have used them successfully but I was using copper not aluminium. I hope this helps? Pat

Hi Rod, thanks for looking in mate. I have brushed it on as I go; usually to the individual parts. I am contemplating a final all over spray as some recommend but I am still researching what long-term effects this may have on the rigging (worried it may go brittle with age). I will need to mask or avoid the finely detailed items and faux glass etc in the stern windows. I am also concerned that the white paint may yellow a bit with age with a coating of dull coat. cheers Pat

You may call it slow progress John, but this is positively flying compared to my build Look forward to seeing the update. cheers Pat

I'm just waiting for one of the figurines to come to life; they certainly look real enough! cheers Pat

Neat idea for the jig Danny, they have come out very good indeed. cheers Pat

Beautiful work as usual Alex - I think you are right with the half-open door, looks quite good and provides the sense of individual parts, not a single/solid panel. cheers Pat