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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Almost there Popeye - the paint job is very 'neat'! WRT the Aztec airbrush, does it take the interchangable tips/nozzles? if so, there is one for doing fine lines (can't remember the colour code for it off the top of my head - sorry) cheers Pat
  2. Mark, in addition to your comments, I think most examples highlighted are the owner's own photograph of the box /graphic etc rather than a direct lift of a graphic; which is then the copyright? We are also non-profit so there is no commercial gain .... I am no lawyer but I think these companies would see this as a cheap way of advertising? cheers Pat
  3. Thanks for looking in Dave, and well spotted. Nope I have erred and only realised it too late. This is my first major build (and these masts are from scrtatch) and I have a lot to learn yet I have ben telling myself that this is ok, but one of these days soon I will get the urge to remake them as while everything else is OK, the alignment of the sheaves in my masts is incorrect. cheers Pat
  4. Don't under-estimate what you are doing mate; very nice work and a very interesting log. cheers Pat
  5. Even better viewing the second time around - very impressive workanship Karl. I look forward to your further installments. cheers Pat
  6. Thanks John, appreciate the offer. I would be most interested in the deatils of the fitting on each of the lower masts, and the quarterdeck bulwarks (inner details) especially cleats and the like. The AOTS and the replica are similar in many respects, but the replica appears to make use of many more cleats on the masts and bulwarks (in lieu of belaying pins for the latter). For example, the AOTS does not show as many cleats on the lower main mast as is evidident in a phopto of the replica I have from a few years back. It is the only photo of that sort of detail I have, so your offer would be greatly appreciated. cheers Pat
  7. Great to see her again Rusty; a very nice build. This will make a very beautful display model. cheers Pat
  8. Thanks John, nearly missed the 'double intende' - can only go upwards now Biggest issue I am having at the moment is determining what fittings/furniture to attach to the lower masts - the AOTS, kit plans and replica differ so much cheers Pat
  9. .........and it will only cost you a very small fee Brian - you know, knock with your elbows cheers Pat
  10. Thanks Chuck, will have to look into that. Sorry to trouble you with a further question, but could you please explain the mixture and method of dying you use (if it's not giving away a trade secret ). Do you use it straight out of the can, dilute it etc to ensure the tack-free uniform finish; and do you simply soak it in the solution and let it hang to dry. This is a great finish and I would really like to try and replicate it if I can find it, or something of the same type over here. cheers Pat
  11. Here you go Jim, a first up photo of LH vs RH rope made on your machine. The LH laid rope is shown on the right. Ther RH laid is formed from RH stock as I have not made up sufficient small stuff yet - just seeing if I could short-cut the process; but, it looks like I have to make up the smaller stock in LH first. I need to get a macro lens for this type of photo I think - this photo is taken at short notice and really does not 'cut the mustard' so to speak - sorry for the poor quality. Only a bit of each scale rope is in focus, but it shows the uneven lay of the strands in the RH laid rope (to the left) within the circled area. cheers Pat
  12. Hi again folks, another small update. I have started to dry assemble the mast components to check for fit, alignment etc. The following photo shows the start of the Fore Mast. Thanks for looking in Dave and for your most kind comments - still learning quite a bit as I progress
  13. Hi Jim, have taken a photo and sent it to you, will repost on here when I am home (site was down yesterday and didn't have a chance to post it online). From what I have achieved so far, LH makes up nicely; still having some problems with RH. I should be more specific in that I am attempting to make RH from RH stocvk thread without going throught the interim process of making LH first - call me lazy! If anyone finds a stockist of LH threads please give a holler (as I asked first..... ) cheers Pat
  14. Thanks Mike; just got the Admiral's OK for the bar fridge too - won't be long before I can live in it (Now maybe that's why there's no resistance from the Admiral ........ Mate, the other place I was tryiong to think of was DCC Concepts. try: http://www.dccconcepts.com/ cheers Pat
  15. She looks just as nice second time around Chuck (and is a timely reminder for me to dig out my partial build and complete it ) cheers Pat
  16. That serving is first class Garward, very much to scale also. What is the thread you are using (looks like some form of unit thread for fly-tying?) cheers Pat
  17. Great to see your log coming back to life Toni, the inclusion of the hints and comments by other members is a great addition for those following in your wake. cheers Pat
  18. Ditto - very very nice work on tose blocks (now, if you are thinking of trashing one or two yoiu are not completely happy with, just send them my way, they'll be better than I could produce right now ) cheers Pat
  19. Hi Cog, I also prefer to Silver Solder, however, I have found for smaller items (such as deadeye straps, closing eyes etc) that a gas powered pencil iron (butane gas ) with solid pointed tip provides sufficient heat (bigger jobs will need a the open flame). For your jon where you need a bit of strength the silver soder would be better (as Russ has pointed out). Using a tip oon the torch also has better control to mimimise any scorching of the wooden deadeyes if you are soldering anywhere near them. Good luck Pat
  20. Hi Martin, I have just received a Foredom (Xmas present). Yet to put it to serious work but I am very happy with it; well made, well powered (more than you will need for model decorations unless carving solid hulls), and looks solid . The only small disappointment is that the flex shaft is just a bitt short, another 200mm would have helped (for me anyway). The flexshaft is considerably heavier in the Foredom (than the dremel) so you need to have the motor high enough to take some of the flex-shaft (plus handgrip/tool) weight. That is where for me at least, that little extra length would have helped balance it a bit more. cheers Pat
  21. I have just had a session on my repaired machine (thanks Jim) - the spool pully belts were loose. It is making up nice LH rope now. When Jim says to keep the tollerance of the die hole small around the threads, he means TIGHT When he returned the head, he left some polyester on there for me which was the excess of his tests. I had a LOT of trouble getting all threads through but Jim says that was the die to use. I eventually got it through and away it went first time this time. I think the loading of the spools plays a big part also. I noted that the spools Jim had loaded were not quite as tightly wound as mine had been so I will need to experiment there. I have made up a bit of a jig to assist me in this (I'll take a piccy tomorrow and post it.). I'll need to keep experimenting The last run I made was with polyester (too stretchy for my liking but I am hardening it to see how it goes). This was a continuous run of about 10metres, and except for a couple of small imperfections when I moved my hand on the tension wheel as I got tired, the rest looks great. The next test/trial is to try and get RH thread. cheers Pat
  22. Thanks for looking in and your kind comments, John, Carl, Kevin, Slog and Sherry. cheers Pat
  23. Thanks for the pics Meredith, can we impose on you to let us know which ones you think work best as you do your trials (I'll to do the same but my range of threads is not as great as yours ) BTW - do you plan a trial of RH lay in the near future? cheers Pat
  24. Thanks for reposting this build-log Ilhan, it is a very good build, an interesting ship, and I very much enjoy following your work. cheers Pat
  25. Hi Augie, and why not - it makes "cents" to me - sorry mate, couldn't help it. John, many thanks. cheers Pat
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