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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Hi all, I am hoping that someone may be able to provide some definitive information to identify how the mizzen burton pendant would have been constructed in HM Bark Endeavour (1768). Hamilton raised this in his log at: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3575-lower-mast-tackles-burton-pendantstackles-top-ropes/?hl=%2Bburton+%2Bpendants I am comfortable with Lee's description but Marquardt shows these as rigged in his drawing but without sufficient detail to see the construction of the pendant and the associated tackle/falls. I see in other logs the advice is to not show the tackle as it would have been rigged as required; however, there is contradictory advice on how the sling end of the pendants are constructed/made up for this period. Anderson also states that up until the end of the 17th century the pendants were constructed with a single block in the hanging end (about level with the carpathans); however, by 1700 this was replaced with a violin block. I have not found any other reference that provides additional information but note quite a few modellers recommend/used a simple eye or eyering. Is there a reference evidence for this? It has also been suggested that as these pendants were used for several tasks (including the tensioning of the shrouds etc) that a single block with two part tackle (permanently in place) is valid to allow the required tackle type to be raised aloft forming a double(?) tackle arrangement - sounds a bit un-seaman-like though?). Some Club members have suggested that the violin block was replaced with two individual blocks (single over double) stropped together in the end of the pendant in a type of reverse violin arrangement? Can anybody please provide any definitive information as to the configuration of the Burton pendant ends/construction for around 1768/1770. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    That is so well detailed I am lost for words - excellent craftsmanship! How did you make the fine detail on the bolt heads? Are they individually filed/made? If so, you quality control and consistency is remarkable. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Good to see the model itself last night Rod; and I agree with Keith, that is an excellent effort for a first build - very clean and smooth finish to her. I think she will build into a very nice model mate. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Sorry to hear of the DF Ollie, get well soon we need you back in the shipyard! That's an unusual paint scheme for her. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Great work and superb detaining Remco; these details take the build from great to extraordinary! Always a pleasure to see what new details you have added. Just one very minor query - is the tag just a little large for the sail? cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Very very nicer work (as usual) Gary; she is looking great. Always a pleasure to look in on your builds. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Forget about the mumbling mate, the pictures spoke for themselves! An excellent job, the flickering light really enhances the model (which is looking great) - SWEET!!!!! cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Hi folks, I would have to agree with Zeh WRT the fog buoy; my experience has been with using the type he has shown (but my experience has been since 1970's). We also used these as 'splash targets' for small arm firings etc. Could the cruciform shape be a 'weight' for attaching to marker buoys such as a danbuoy or the like? We used to drop these as either drifting (unweighted) or static and would in my tme be weighted with a large concrete weight - this looks a little more elegant especially for releasing it? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Hi Jerry, actually it is the other way around -LH lay (S) lays up much stiffer and provides more strength and was generally used in standing rigging where strength was required (such as shrouds stays etc). However, it is not a hard and fast rule that LH lay rope was always used for shrouds etc; sometimes, shroud lay (4 strand) was used etc. RH lay being more flexible was generally used for running rigging. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    A nice looking build David, I have added you to my watch list cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi S.o.s. - could you please advise exactly what part of the process is not working? If you find that the split tube sides are collapsing when bending, then you could try putting a bit of wire (same OD as the ID of the tube) into the channel as you bend it and that might help. If it is that you cannot obtain/bend a circle around the pliers perhaps a temporary jig using an old/broken drill bit of the appropriate OD, set into a wood offcut (secured to the bench or a vice), around which to form the ring might assist - similar to making wire rings. These two ideas can work together as a combination as I have used them successfully but I was using copper not aluminium. I hope this helps? Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Rod, thanks for looking in mate. I have brushed it on as I go; usually to the individual parts. I am contemplating a final all over spray as some recommend but I am still researching what long-term effects this may have on the rigging (worried it may go brittle with age). I will need to mask or avoid the finely detailed items and faux glass etc in the stern windows. I am also concerned that the white paint may yellow a bit with age with a coating of dull coat. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    You may call it slow progress John, but this is positively flying compared to my build Look forward to seeing the update. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    I'm just waiting for one of the figurines to come to life; they certainly look real enough! cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Neat idea for the jig Danny, they have come out very good indeed. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Beautiful work as usual Alex - I think you are right with the half-open door, looks quite good and provides the sense of individual parts, not a single/solid panel. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Looking the 'ants pants' mate! cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Mate for a first effort that is an absolutely terrific finish you have achieved. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thanks all for the positive feedback and likes; I very much appreciate you looking in. @russ - thanks mate; but you are being kind Take a look at the second photograph, the port side violin block strop has a raggedy finish to the 'fag-end' and the associated stay has some fuzz when you look at the full sized image (just to the top and left of the Bee. these were the last done and I had not checked them before fitting - but easily fixed. @jimlad - thanks John, have a little- quieter time (work and 'admiral's jobs') at the moment so I am able to spend a few more hours in the shipyard @greg lester - thanks Greg. It is a mixed bag, most of the scale rope is made by myself, but some of the running rigging is from MoRope. I can make LH laid rope quite well now (up to about 1.0 to 1.2mm dia.), but have not quite mastered RH. I use Jim Byrnes ropewalk and it is a particularly finicky (overly so) machine and you have to have everything 'just right' to get good quality rope. @mtaylor - thanks Mark, but you are being too nice . I can see some very poor workmanship on some of the very early work I did; but as this is my first serious wood ship I have been learning and improving as I go. I can definitely see some things which I just wish I had not accepted as 'acceptable' way back when cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    A very nicely done model Jan; a joy to look at. Your paint work is excellent with nice consistent colour and well defined edges etc. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi Ollie, I have poked my nose in once or twice to have a look at your build, but felt I needed to add a comment on your excellent planking and plating - your Mermaid looks nice. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi folks, a small update having rebuilt the broken jib and doing some repairs. In the interim I have made the gaff, and started the standing rigging for the jib and mizzen mast. The close up photos have been sharpened to show the rope and rigging detail which has highlighted some rope fuzz and raggedy ends that needs repairs. Unfortunately this photo process also shows all the dents etc in the wood and exposed a few paint touch-ups that are required ( a good thing I suppose ) All comments and constructive criticism appreciated. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Remco, that is absolutely superb detail at that scale even if you are playing around as you say - you are a very talented artiste! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Nice catch Mark. I always find a book by an expert user for each of the power tools I have that explains how to 'tune' them to get consistent quality /accurate cuts, finishes etc. I have top thank a mentor in my club for that sage bit of advice. ....and that reminds me about time I revisited each to ensure all is still in alignment etc cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    That second version looks pretty good Russ; a case of practice makes perfect cheers Pat

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