BANYAN

I am hoping the more experienced modellers here may have an answer to a question about the dimensions of the cat head that I have been trying to resolve for awhile. From the contract documentation I have been able to determine that the cat head sided and moulded dimensions were 13 inches (square) which ties in with other literature I have read. From a reasonable lithograph, and interpreting the other literature such as Goodwin, the most likely design for the cat head would have been the upward canted design as evidenced in HMS Warrior (contemporary to the ship I am researching - HMCSS Victoria). The following link shows this design with the upward canted cathead and knee support. http://www.stvincent.ac.uk/heritage/warrior/anchor.html What I have not been able to find is a rule of thumb, or formula that determines the length of the Cat Head overall - I have found the formula for the knee in Goodwin and one for the Cat Tail (also in Goodwin). I am assuming that the overall length of the 13" square timber would have been determined by the angle of the cant and ensuring sufficient clearance from the ship's side for the anchor not to strike/foul on her sides when catted. Is there any rule of thumb / formula for determining this length, or at least some guidance on what offset distance (from the hull) to use? A related question, is the fitting of whiskers, again stipulated in the Contract and indistinctly shown in the lithograph. From 'The Kedge Anchor' I understand that these were the iron outriggers with sheaves, fitted to the cathead, which had guys reeved through them to set up the fore chains. I am trying to determine at what sort of angle (direction and length) these protruded? Can anyone point me to a reference or provide a clearer understanding please? cheers Pat

One day my joinery and timberwork may be as clean as yours, but I have a long way to go. cheers Pat

Hi Russ, some nice updates. That last photo really shows off her lines to great effect - what a little beauty! cheers Pat

Very nice Danny, a polished job cheers Pat

Hi Rod, great to catch up with you last night at the Club meet. Good luck with the second-planking but you have a very good base onto which to build. My personal preference is to add the stem and keel etc before the second planking to act as a 'false' or faux rabbet. As to glue, my preference is white PVA or Titebond II and I usually put a very thin layer (smear) on both the plank and the hull then let it go slightly tacky (sticky finger job so have a bunch of wipes ready to go ). That way you can still move/jiggle the plank into position a bit and doesn't take as long to set. For holding the planks in place I use a number of methods including map pins (the ones with a plastic lipped top to them which I push into the first layer under the new plank edge. The next plank will cover the hole. The other method I use is elastic bands and balsa soft blocks (Balsa strips/billets in various sizes as a bundle are very cheap at Bunnings). I put a bit of electrical tape on two sides of a block I cut from the balsa (various sizes) then put the elastic bands completely around the hull in several places along the length of the plank and insert a block PVA side down/up under the elastic band then tension as required (either a second wrap or a toggle to twist). The balsa being soft bends/compresses slightly to shape and holds the plank well; I use the tape to allow it to slip/slide a little better when positioning and stop the rubber/elastic bands digging into the block too much. I have built up a large array of different sized bands for this and also use surgical rubber tube for this purpose. Please give me a PM and I will pass my details if you wish to chat about these techniques - at work so can't post a photo - don't let the boss know though cheers Pat Edit: The electrical tape also minimises any excess glue from the planks sticking to the balsa during the clamping period.

Very nice work indeed, you have some excellent sculpting skills Alexander, especially at this scale. cheers Pat

I think it safe to say that many of us have missed the build log and are REALLY looking forward to seeing that amazing detail again - I almost got over the addiction and here you go teasing us again cheers Pat

I agree Henry, the foremost shrouds were served and the rest simply tarred with Stoholm Tar or the like according to several sources. The rules which drives the 'guidance' as stated by Steel, Lees, Marquardt etc, which is what Marc was asking about, state clearly that it was only the leading shroud leg of each leading (foremost) shroud pair per mast where chafe was likely. That said, anywhere where chafe was likely from other rigging, sails etc would also have been further protected in some manner, usually rope serving or, as seen in some merchant and smaller vessels, using baggeywrinkles. cheers Pat

Hi Mark, I didn't place a like as that is news one cannot like Big decision mate, but probably for the better; a great learning experience none-the-less. Have you thought of using this as the base for a wreck diorama or similar where trennel counting isn't so important? Hate to sdee all that effort totally wasted. cheers Pat

Marc, also try Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging as he also includes European detail in addition to Steel's tables. With Steel the tables are difficult but I am starting to get my head around them. From what I have determined via Steel and Lee's the Masting and Rigging of English Ships... for English ships at least, the leading leg of every set of shrouds (i.e most forward of each of the Fore, Main and Mizzen) were served all the way down and the after leg of these, and all other shroud pairs were served about 8 feet, or 1/4 of the length. where the fit around the mast. I hope this helps? cheers Pat

Wefalck, that is a stunning diorama; very well executed. It almost makes me feel that I am walking around Volandam (spelling?) in winter - though I think your's is from a different area? cheers Pat

Great to see you making some further progress on this little beauty Russ cheers Pat

Nice work Danny, an excellent result. I may have missed itbut what are you using for the glas - mica? Looks excellent! cheers Pat

Pedrsistence pays off -that is is serious shaping Mark with excellent results. cheers Pat

Hi Keith and thanks for looking in and your prompt Actually, I have made some progress - the mizen is stepped and shrouds in place. While I am remaking the boom, I am also making the Gaff to put in place (working from stern to bow in placing the masts. Should only be a weel delay as the boom is mostly remade now - should be finished by the end of this week all going well. cheers Pat

Thanks all for looking in and for the words of commiseration and advice. I am well progressed with the jib now (photos soon), I am just about to add the bands and wolding etc. the other positive of all this is that I had the preventer sheave and stay sheave in the bees the wrong way around in the original - someone is perhaps trying to tell me not to accept 'close enough' Danny, I thought of you when it happened. Unfortunately, I have not yet made a base board, and as I have already stepped the mizzen and rigged the shrouds I have to turn her upside down in the lap to allow for the mast - I will definitely heed the advice though cheers Pat

And just as I was getting a roll on with the rigging ---- Disaster (well a minor disaster) I don't know how many times I have read of this, and despite taking care, I still managed to drop my Endeavour while working on her in my lap - Bow first. While attempting to refine the patch up on the mizzen deadeyes that had come adrift from their chain plates, I had to try to turn the model upside down to get at the bottom of the channels. Well, some how or another I relaxed my grip, and in one of those surreal slow-motion events I saw her heading towards bow first. Despite my efforts I was not quick enough! The one small positive is that as she went plumb straight down all the impact was taken by the jib boom and as I had some rigging on it, appears to have absorbed all the damage. The boom was broken in half and no other damage from the drop. however to get the inboard end off the model, I had to prise some of the deck planking away. The attached shots show the initial deck repair (some aging to add but almost all will be covered by the new boom. the other shot sows the shaped boom after bending into the required shape. Oh well, something had to happen eventually; I just hope there are no more. cheers Pat

Seriously nice work Remco; a great looking stove. Druxey; subtle cheers Pat

Hi Gary very nice work; be careful though, too cute and Mr Jones may need an attire change to something more frilly cheers Pat

Hi all, I have had practically the same experience as Wefalck with the dental loupes. I bought a pair via eBay (Chinese) but find them near impractical to work with. I am not sure if the medical variety would do any better. Wefalck, if you find a decent set of clip on magnifiers could you let us know please?. I would like a pair for my normal glasses as well as for use with safety glasses but have the same issue re the clip-on mechanisms. Everything I have seen so far either has cheap and clunky clip mechanisms. A set oof clip ons with variable (2x and 3.5x) equal on both side that could flip up out of the way, and that can be used on both reading and safety glasses would be the best of both worlds. However, most of the stuff I have seen is the cheap polished plastic type magnifiers that (for me) do not provide a nice clear working environment that would allow comfortable working over longer periods. We will probably have to settle for interchangeable magnification inserts but a decent glass magnifier would be great. There are now cheap variable / adjustable reading glasses that have a adjustable settings for each eye available in Australia, I wounder if that sort of technology is transferable to the magnification type glasses/visors etc? These are not the ones I have seen, but a similar concept: http://www.gizmag.com/eyejusters-adjustable-glasses-developing-world/22734/ cheers Pat

Excellent work Remco, very authentic look andf feel to it - Congrats on such a remarkable job. Now, I have a BBQ that needs some brick work done..... cheers Pat

Very nice Gary and a big huzzah to Mr Jones for his clothing (and the slop bucket ) cheers Pat

"Don't be too hard??? Gary, that excellent work and a fine example of good craftsmanship! Going to add the slops bucket ? cheers Pat

Hi Doris, the level of finish and quality on this model is superb. I hope you are entering this in a competition as if it does not win a prize I don't know what would - absolutely beautiful work! cheers Pat

Coming along very nicely Ron, the next layer of planking will seem like a doddle after that cheers Pat