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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Nice work on those guns Keith, they look really good in situ. Great to hear your hands are back to near full flexibility and use. cheers Pat
  2. Stunning results mate; worthy of display in a museum. cheers Pat
  3. Dick, when I was building my Endeavour I tried using under car bitumen coating on the lower hull. It went on well and dried to a nice even coating looking very much like a coating of 'brown stuff' - BUT, that was in winter , then along came summer, and while not making the bitumen slump, it got very tacky. So, off it came - but the surprise was that were the tar in the coating had penetrated the gaps, cracks etc in the lower hull planking, it left a very nice effect that showed a distinct darker shade under and above the waterline. Just saying - maybe a light wash that just darkens it while retaining the definition of your planking etc? That hull is looking very good and as Steven says, it would be a pity to cover it. cheers Pat
  4. Love the see-saw Steven - seriously though, that is some very nicer work and makes the ship so much more realistically displayed. cheers Pat
  5. Another very interesting subject you are modelling here Dick. I have been lurking on this topic so thought I had better join the crowd before the pop-corn runs out ( I would settle for a pack of maltesers though ) cheers Pat
  6. Just found you build Allan, a very nice subject and you model is doing her real justice. cheers Pat
  7. Impressive work; love the jig you used for the wheel. Great idea for the lanterns also; very effective results. cheers Pat
  8. Looks great. You must be close to using more twine than wood in this model soon cheers Pat
  9. Great to see you back Keith, even on a part-time basis. Look forward to your updates. cheers Pat
  10. Add a smidge here, take off a tad there and hey presto Just need to tie a few parts together with fencing wire and you will have a true Aussie creation cheers Pat
  11. Another interesting subject to model Greg. Despite the heavy dependence on after-market parts to dress her up, the hull itself seems like if is fairly well defined for her armour panels and the like? cheers Pat
  12. She's looking great Hellmuht; a very nice job you have done on the stitching. Must have taken some time to work out the repeating pattern to achieve the look? cheers Pat
  13. Hi again all, Keith, as promised, I have found the reference but had the wrong author. The book 'Naval Gunnery' by Captain H. Garbett, page 66, states that pivot guns were traversed on gun-metal racers (sweeps) secured to the deck. Note the wording which he uses in his book, which says secured to the deck, NOT into the deck. This book was first published in 1897, the copy I refer to is the 1971 reprint. Hope this helps. cheers Pat
  14. Not sure if directly applicable Rob, but WRT the plates, HMCSS Victoria's Contract required the builder to be redock the ship (at their expense) for sheathing after completely fitting out - probably to ensure a very clean bottom on delivery. cheers Pat
  15. Stunning work as usual Amalio, a feast for the eyes. cheers Pat
  16. The revised castles look good Steven, I might even suggest the core structure look even better. Moving them to better accommodate the rowers was also a very wise choice. Not too much any 'rivet counters' could find to fault in your model cheers Pat
  17. That's a very nice painting Rob, and as you say sits very nicely in your themed library - quite the cosy snug uou have there! cheers Pat
  18. Thanks for looking in Tony. Well.......... the reason there has been no progress shown is that I have made none. Before I can progress further I need to get the spars and rigging sorted and drawn up. The issue as you can see from the above discussion is that so much of this is inter-related - i.e the size of one thing determined the size of another etc. Until I get those finalised, I can't start on making the spars, which in turn governs some of the belaying of the rigging, which in turns governs the positions of the bitts, some pin rails/cross-pieces etc etc. Well I am sure you get the picture. As soon as I have sorted these tops I think I am in a position to finalise the spars. cheers Pat
  19. Thanks Rob, appreciate the thumbs up and you have encapsulated my delema nicely in those two approaches. My first attempt was to use the most current general conventions/building practices written by Fincham and Kipping, whom both released books on Masting and Rigging ships in 1855 (the year Victoria was built). This resulted in a top that is WAY oversized -nearly thre to four times bigger than what is shown in imagery. I agree with you WRT the builders using their own methods and designs, but unfortunately, as far as I know this was not recorded by the Victoria's builders. I live in the hope that when I can get back into the Public Records Office (once we get out of lock downs etc) and complete my investigations into the correspondence from and to the ship build supervisor (who wrote weekly build progress reports for the Governor of Victoria - a naval offer so the reports are in depth and about the appropriate matters - not just fancy words and 'fluff'). Underhill, as I have said, does advise that it was becoming increasingly more common to use iron in the tops. I am now reading him from cover-to-cover rather than selections based on the current item I am working on. As a result, I am now almost sure that Victoria will have used iron hounds and tops. Unfortunately, he, Fincham, Kipping Crothers nor Lees gives any guidance on these; so I will have to cast my net wider. I am now to trying to find anything that will help me in drawing up a set of completely iron tops and hounds. Thanks for all the 'thumbs-up' and looking in folks, much appreciate the interest in this subject matter. Cheers Pat
  20. A very authentic looking model Steve; take a bow. cheers Pat
  21. Continuing to enjoy your build Dick, and the temptation remains - I just have to be realistic about it. I still have the Victoria to finish (just experienced a major set-back in researching her spars, finish a restoration.....) - well I am sure you know the story Steven - what can I say - naughty, naughty Dick, have you no shame? cheers Pat
  22. Nice fix on the xylokastra Steven; as Druxey says; probably a small bonus in that the real thing may have need that extra structural support from below anyway. WRT threads, there are a number of good suppliers here in Oz online with colour charts etc available - give me a call if you need details. That said, the final mixture and method you used produced excellent results. cheers Pat
  23. Very nice work on the guns Greg; they look great. What brands of paint are you using for airbrushing these? cheers Pat
  24. Thanks again Rob, especially the encouragement. Also, thanks for looking in again Keith. I have decided to go with what the imagery is showing based on the fact it is very accurate in most regards. I have also found a comment in Underhill that 'iron' tops in wood built ships with wood masts were becoming increasingly common - but no guidance on shape, form or dimensions. I am still at odds with myself WRT to using a full iron top, wood trestletree with short wood cross-pieces supporting iron rod crosstrees, or (and my current basis) is wood trestletrees, wood short crosspieces with iron rod for the centre and after crosstress, and full wood forward crosstree with shallow wood/iron rim sitting ontop or recessed. I am drawing these up and overlaying them on the imagery to get a feel of what fits best. I think Underhill, and probably other authors do not cover this type of top as it is a radical change and probably up to the builder to construct with their own experience. Thanks all for your continued feedback; all is mot welcomed. cheers Pat
  25. Nice to see you back Keith. Surprising how a break turns into a sabbatical - life has its ways of distracting you! Nice work on the guns. cheers Pat
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