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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, I found using a very thin strip (both width and thickness) as a batten to be very helpful, as the batten if not forced to bend in the up/down dimension, has the natural tendency to lay in the natural path of the sheer when laid upon the hull at various points. By moving these to various positions, and adjusting the 'lay', this better defines where to place the band separating lines. You can use them temporarily and replace with string after marking the appropriate points along the batten. I think David Antscherl and other authors also recommend this. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    That's a good process you have developed Steven; I have noted/logged this as one never knows, I may be tempted myself one day cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Ditto, great tip Keith. The crutch assembly is looking great. You may have covered this, and I am being lazy not checking back through the log, but is your saw mounted in a mill with a chuck on the x table, or is it in a lathe with overhead milling attachment? I like the process of cross cutting to hold smaller parts. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi all, very many thanks for the input re the gun. I went back through my references and the screw elevating rod and base plate were made of 'gunmetal' - being a type of bronze – an alloy of copper, tin, and zinc. I am not sure there would be a dissimilar metal corrosion (electrochemical issues) with the iron, but I know in my day (while in the navy) we had to treat the interfacing surfaces with barium chromate - I wonder if close attention and the frequent application of grease will have sufficed? cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Very nice clean and crisp joinery Ben; looks great! cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Sorry for not getting back earlier HYW; distracted with other matters. I think Tony and Wefalck have answered the questions you had. As there is not a lot of material on the subject, your model, representing a smaller vessel, may indeed had standard link cable only. Either way, you are doing a wonderful job with the build. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Thanks Rob, much appreciate the photos. I only have the slow speed micro-motor version; the air driven looks very interesting. I have found jewellery suppliers have 2.35 shank drill bits and some burs (but there is not a great range) so I still have to rely on the Dremel for some tasks. I have found some great 'separating disks (carbon fibre) which are very expensive, but very good - You have to remain very alert when using them as one small slip and kiss your digit good bye - they cut through soft-metals easy! You get different types to cut different media, ceramic, steel etc . I just cannot find a wide range of bits etc for the contra-angle head. There seems to be plenty of burrs and cylinder style cutting bits (like micro-mill cutters) but nothing in the way of drill bits. The following is the style of separating disc I mean - I have a different brand; these are just to show the type. I find that the dental micro-motors are much better for small jobs; any serious torque need well.... for small jobs though they are so much easier to control and get into tight places. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Great news, look forward to seeing the new crew members, less work for the few already 'on the books' cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    HYW, I am very impressed with the quality of your work and the model, but in this instance I feel that you are reducing the overall quality of the model in not using 'studded" or stud-link chain for your cable. After making that excellent swivel link, I think the cable deserves to be studded? This chain can be sourced reasonably cheaply, but with your skills I think you can make it? The more 'learned' here may be able to offer better advice, but I think English and French (pretty much all) ships were using stud-link cable at this point? Please accept this as a very MINOR criticism/suggestion and I remain an avid onlooker of your very fine work. regards Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in and the kind comments Eberhard and Rob. Eberhard, I have to admit defeat on this lanyards to date but.... I am still trying. The smallest thread I have still look so out of scale, even the fly tying threads. As these lanyards were not left permanently attached, but drawn from the magazine when closing up to action/battle stations, I may end up leaving them off. My currently battle is imitating the 'cheesed' rope coils on the gun tackles. I could do them separately and attach to te tackle, but it sort of looks wrong, so I am trying to 'cheese' the actual fall of the tackle as per the photograph. Rob, many thanks that is very kind of you to say; not much to look at at the moment as I struggle with finishing the guns - almost there . cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Those companionways are looking superb Keith; very impressive work. A suggestion to consider for the flags. Building on John's idea, when I had to do my hammocks at 1:72, I rolled them on a longer length of polystyrene rod (thinnest I could find ofjust under 1mm) this gave them the rigidity I needed but remove the rod before the glue sets up. You could use thin brass rod (0.5mm) also - a very diluted PVA mixture would be less inclined to stick? When dry, I reinserted the rod to give support while I cut to length. Knowing your ingenuity though, you have probably already tried this cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Wonderful craftsmanship; a joy to see these updates. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Looking good Steven; wonderful collection of 'larger' perspective objects you have there in the form of pegs matches etc . You are probably already aware, but please consider sealing that balsa (a diluted pva and water solution works well) so that the glue for your planks is not wicked/soaked into the balsa when you get to lay the planks. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Sounds like a useful tool Rob - any photos details most welcome please. I use a dental micro-motor with a straight and a contra angle handpiece but find the range of tools (2.35mm shank) a little limiting. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Looks very good Gary; funny how sometimes you don't seem to have enough hours in the day when you retire cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Great job on the cleaning Steven, your patience has paid dividends. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Nice to see some progress on her Rob; trust all remain safe? cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Now that is impressive Keith, very nice set of stairs. Also, thank you again for laying out so clearly the process you take in producing these parts. regards Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Just when I thought I was kicking some goals you come along to spoil the party Seriously though Eberhard, that is some very (VERY) impressive micro-maching and the result looks excellent. So much for me cobbling bits together to 'simulate' when you can do this at half the size I am doing it at. As you have said in other logs, a machined item looks much better. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    You have created a very good model cannon there Keith especially noting the scale. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Very clever and well applied; brings them to life. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Very nice work Keith, I very much enjoy seeing your updates simply to relish the craftsmanship. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Thanks Tony, a nice sharp bit of detail helps to hide the not so perfect Eberhard, the holder is a good idea and could prove useful indeed; I'll tuck that one away for the future. WRT the elevating screw, yep, the Dundas design had the thread cut into the lug; thanks for confirming/pointing that out as I had not thought of it and it makes a lot of sense. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Thanks everyone for the 'thumbs up' and comments. Appreciate the continued encouragement John, Carl, Eberhard and Keith. Eberhard, 1. WRT the elevating screw, it was made from a small (0.9mm) brass bolt of which I rounded the hex head, then added the handle/spokes. I have yet to determine whether they were bronze or iron. I have decided on bronze based on the research of the HMS Trincomalee. I wrote them as they have a similar arrangement for elevating their carronades and the photos they sent back showed unpainted bronze screws. 2. WRT axletree extension - yep realised that when I painted them I somehow put down the wrong dimensions when I manufactured them. At this stage, I have noted the error but so that I don't damage the carriages, will leave them for this model. They don't look as bad now I have painted the ironwork, but still obvious Thanks for the observation and suggestions; I always appreciate constructive criticism as I learn and improve from it. 3. WRT 3D print process, I will need to get back to you as the actual printing is done by a mate. I research the guns, draw them up[ in 2D and he then draws them up in 3D and prints them for me. I pay for materials and some time and help him with other research. I will ask him the pertinent questions and get back to you. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Despite the tribulations, those decks look good Steven. The colour especially looks very good for decking. cheers Pat

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