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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Thanks again everyone for the very kind remarks and useful comments/suggestions. I am learning a lot from these processes and I am am still not happy with some of the pieces, but I have to make some progress - so they stay. I have started work on completing the broadside guns as I have still procrastinating whether just to add simple stand-alone sheet bitts to each/all masts, or whether to add cross-pieces to the Fore and Main. I have a quandary in that the Contract states sheet bits to be fitted, but in another specifies crosspieces, BUT, I currently interpret this as being for the gallows only. However, this just ambiguous enough to also refer to the sheet bitts as similar treatment has been used for other items. Also, the plans for the contemporary Arrow and Vigilant class ships show cross pieces on the main mast bitts, but one shows on both masts, but the other only on for the main mast bitts. The mizen is definitely only the sheet bitts as per the plans and photographic evidence. I am leaning to just bitts as the masts were also fitted with spider bands at the base of each mast which will accept the lines usually belayed to the cross piece pins. Thanks again for all for looking in Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Very nice work Steven; that will certainly add a pop of colour to the model. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Nice work Steven, you are probably carving these in your sleep now. What better then sitting out in some of this nice autumn weather and doing this though Are you doing a 'pace/timing keeper' also? cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi all, very many thanks for looking in and the very kind comments. John, Eberhard - yes the air intakes look large but I am using the sizes (scaled) as fitted to HMS Warrior (only 5 years later) as my 'guide'. I agonised over this for some time and did consider going smaller, but as these intakes did service a large space (each pair), so I decided to stay with them. Also, if I had used Cowels, they will have been of roughly the same diameter (pipe) and roughly the same height. They do 'look' a bit wrong, but a small intake simply would not have drawn enough air and as this is the size fitted in Warrior, and that Victoria's Bulwark was very low (just over three feet- normal was 5 feet- ish), I decided to go with them. They didn't look too bad off the model, but after fitting they do appear a little oversized. Eberhard, WRT to the after bench, another item I agonized over. The only photo I have (at deck level not overhead) shows this as solid wood, but I may have been looking at the solid edges/ledgers). The photo does not show any dappling or filtered light beneath the bench so I have assumed it was solid. Druxey, WRT to metal truck lining I am going by the drawings I have. In reality they should be iron, not shiny brass but all my attempts to fit blackened rims resulted in scratches. My hope is if I can hold my hands steady enough to paint them black when all the remaining work on them is completed. I now have the 3D printed barrels so should be able to complete them soon. Once the barrels and cap squares have been fitted, I will reeve the breech ropes and seize them to the ring bolts and then sort out the 'shiny wheels' :), then I can fit the guns by fitting the pre-seized ringbolts to the roughtree (rising) timbers in the Bulwark. Thanks again all for looking in and the 'thumb's up" and comments; I value all feedback. If the concensus is that these are too big I will look at how I might remove them (they hare held with CA (metal to wood strength) and try to make lower versions. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    And, as Beef Wellington asked, here are some overview shots showing the rest of the ship at the current state of build cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Another small update folks. I have finished and fitted the air vents; the start of these were shown in an earlier post. After airbrushing them white, I added some simulated some bolt heads on the flange to simulate them being bolted to the deck. These were punched from foil (0.5mm hex shape) then painted in situ. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice result Keith; a good process you have developed. I'll tuck that idea away also . cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Keith, just offer to exchange your model for the real thing; same quality of workmanship cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Exceptional skills with such clean results. I especially like your scarf template; a great idea. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Nice work Keith, those protection bars should come up a treat. I used the same process but wood rather than metal batons in one skylight, then rather than chance the drilling had the batons for the protective bars photo etched (cheating I know ) cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Candice, welcome to the hobby. Another source for your products are Jewellery Suppliers which more often than not have online services. Most supply 'patina' products which are specific to different types of metals. You can also try a stained glass or arts supplier, as they have patina chemicals for the lead and other metals. I have found supplies at gunsmiths (probably shut) but some may be on line. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Some very nice detailing Keith; looks great. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    If not for lifting the ship Keith, what about a section of the deck to remove the engine, generator etc? Nice progress and always a pleasure to view this log. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Sure, but that is why I said when it did shine cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, pity about that knot, though once it has been smoothed it should mostly remain unseen? WRT the flange, to me that indicates the block may have been inset into the bulwark or bitt etc, with the flange acting to stop it going through? Alternatively though, if the flange was on the inside of the eye of an attached rope (based on direction of 'pull') it could be there to stop the eye being pulled off, much like a grove serves on a deadeye? cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Nice work Steven; a difficult and very 'fiddly' part to make which you have achieved admirably. Were the insides white though; would have cooked the poor lookout when the sun did shine? cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    The base of the mast is hidden below the deck planking anyway Steven, so won't be seen - your solution will work well for the model (and keeps it within the theme of staying true to your earlier efforts). cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, a thought from left field: those brackets look substantial, if there are another set forward, could these be lifting points for lifting the hull out of the water? Unlikely noting the size of the hull but... cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Not too much grizzling from this 'baby' as she gets her teeth I hope? looking good Steven cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    That furling looks pretty effective Rob. Another fine example of ships of this era. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    For the holes consider a metal template. I cannot recall the builder/member that posted this concept (back in MSW ver 1.0 I think) , but it comprised a metal tube soldered to a plate with the ID of the tube being the same as the OD of the turned deadeye (or you could bore out a solid rod/square stock) to the right diameter on the lathe. This acts as the holder for the deadeye and the tube should be just deep enough to hold the deadeye, a base wood piece so you don't damage the drill bits, and for the next part (the template) to fit in also. The template is made the same diameter as the deadeye. Carefully place and drill the 3 holes in the template, accuracy is key here but a lot of time is saved in taking the time to do this only once. Put the template over a deadeye blank in the tube and then drill the holes in each deadeye using the template as the guide. This allows you to consistently place the holes in each deadeye - the most difficult being to get the template right. The last bit then is to use a pointed fine needle file, or a cord type grit/sanding line, to put a slight groove into each hole in the direction of the pull of the rope. I hope that helps? cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Ah the joys of finding further information; only too familiar with that problem in my build. I also took the same approach; it was the best I had at the time but I have recorded it. The shields are looking great and will add a real 'oomph' to the overall build when they are in place (sorry about the highly technical terminology). cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    I am sure these 'lads' can wait for a while Nice work on the shields and rough carving. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Thanks Denis; appreciate you looking in and for the encouragement. What are you working on at the moment? I miss you fishing boats cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Thanks for the comments and encouragement Eberhard, Steven and John - much appreciated. cheers Pat

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