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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Very nice painting detail Steven; and welcome to the 'shaky hands' club cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Dr PR, you may be referencing 'chocks'? Also, I am wondering if it may be a misprin=t and actually referring to 'gun spikes' used to help train the gun? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Looks good Dan and thanks for the feedback and tips. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Could she have carried a small boat up there? or perhaps a painters plank? However, these maybe out of character with the rest of the vessel and the 'patch up a more palatable solution. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    I had the pleasure of seeing this model first-hand last night and the detail is exquisite! Looks even better than the high quality shown in the photographs. Cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    I get an education from simply following your posts Eberhard. Many thanks Cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Great progress Steven, eagerly waiting to see the finished paint work . cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    All that brass work, must have kept the crew busy with the "Brasso" Nice work as usual Keith, look forward to seeing the holes all filled. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Glenn, if you are still monitoring the site, I have missed your regular postings of this fine model; glad to see her in her finished state. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Beautiful work, they look excellent. Are you going to imitate the wood with paint? cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Ah the joys of micro modelling; glad to see you still maintain a sense of humour about it. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Sorry to be late to the party Keith :). That is a great finish to the hawse pipes and typical of your excellent metal work . I like the turning set-up cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Looks great despite the lighting issues mate; you can be justifiably happy with your results. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    I think experimentation is the only way to find out for sure. Looking at the illustration, I think putting 24 onto 22, then that assembly onto 23 looks easier. I would also use two different temp solders, and use the higher tem on 24/22 first. it might also help to make two small wooden jigs/rests onto which to rest the parts while soldering - shape these so that the two parts are at their correct respective heights to each other, with a front and rear 'lip' ( or simply use a small piece of blue tack at front and extreme rear) to keep them in place; scrap wood will do the job. I wouldn't worry about the blue tack being a heat sink as it will be far enough away from the joint. I think your biggest concern will be 'blowing' holes in the brass with too much heat (depending on its thickness)so some heat sinks may even be beneficial. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Looking forward to the pics; glad the renno went well for you. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    That deck colouring looks great Keith. The jig you used for shaping the deck is ingenious (simple and very effective-noted for future use ;)) cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi Roger and Eberhard, I have taken a look in May (where I should have looked first - duh!) which largely resolved my issues based on his explanations. It is not so much the type of the boat (construction/form), but often the name was applied for the purposes it was used/issued (establishment). initially, most boats were introduced and built to a 'type' but later convention was that the naming evolved when certain boats were used for specific purposes apparently. The whaler was double ended, but as it was also 'used' as a barge hence it is called by various names, with the gig also called the Pinnace when used for the Captain's use. Similarly, a galley could be the cutter/lifeboat. cheers, appreciate the feedback. Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Ditto Dave, I am currently using a brand with interchangeable acrylic lenses which I have grown to dislike for two reasons. First they mark and scratch easily, and secondly, if changing out the lenses, their designs make them prone to easy breakage (and if you accidently stress the folding mechanism. I would rather pay for a good set of glass lenses now I think and have started looking around. My criteria now are: 1. I would prefer glass lenses with at least 3 levels of magnification with focus (work) point at about 15 to 20 inches 2. hI would also prefer a head band mounted version (rather than spectacles add on, preferably with LED light mount option 3. Open sides so as not to restrict view angle range (loupes are too restrictive). Some brands that come are are the higher end Donegan 'optivisor' with glass inserts, Magni pros, and DKM. I will be very interested in better better quality versions if that is the way you prefer to go also. I seem to go through the cheaper ones all to fast (but may be a sign of my aging eyes ) cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Now that is a clever way of resolving that problem! You were fortunate to find eyelets to the exact diameter you needed, which sure saved on some manufacturing. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Thanks Tony, you made my day with your comment re local history; exactly what I am trying to achieve here - preserve the history of this ship and, thanks also for the 'kudos'. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    That is some very nice clean work Keith, a pleasure following this build and learning some new ways to to do things. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Thanks Ed, Rob and Keith, appreciate the feedback from such fine model builders. Six carriages now made, just waiting for some PE and the barrels. I have made a start on the gun tackles - ugh! Talk about a frustrating task with 2.5mm blocks and 2mm hooks - one down only 11 to go cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Hi Brett, for something left of field, I used a combo of a hull/clamping vice and pool 'spaghetti' The latter is cheap, works well and even allowed me to transport the model (even with the masts and rigging) with no problems at all. The slots allow the hull to be restrained, but simply lifting the hull you can lay it at any angle on the foam without damage to the planking etc. The sides and length can be adjusted as needed; and the round holes to accept the longer side pieces are precut, but it is easy to make new ones. I was lucky that the precut holes worked for me at 1:64. This is my Endeavour being rigged (top) some years ago, and being held by the keel clamp.
  24. BANYAN
    Hi folks, another quick update. I have been side tracked with research of late but have managed to make a start on the broadside guns. These were 32 pounder 25 cwt guns to the Dundas pattern, mounted on rear-chock carriages. As usual close ups show more dust, lumps etc than to the naked eye, so I am going to have to clean them up a little more yet As you can see these are small at 1:72, only 22 x 12mm at the widest, and the prototype is a rough 3D print barrel. The ones I will fit will be printed to a much higher fidelity and include the sights and gunlock - won't be as 'rough'. The prototype was used to ensure it fitted the ports etc correctly, and work out a way to run the production line. The rear worm drive elevating mechanism still has to have the handle added and the striker plate on the chooch will be a little more refined. The production version wheels are only dry fitted as I am still trying to determine whether to blacken the outer hub. the photo I am using as a reference (of the actual ship's gun) and contemporary information suggest these, and the wheel rims /rollers were made from gunmetal and not iron. They just seem a little too bright but my attempts to dull them have produced inconsistent results - I may just live with them cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    A lovely collection of bent sticks there John Looks like a great base for her planking. cheers Pat

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