BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Very nice results with the laser cut parts Eberhard; that gun looks great! As you say, a lot cheaper than PE so may need to investigate the process myself as it produces a wonderfully detailed result especially working with smaller scaled items. cheers Pat -
Nice to see you coming back to the 'wet' side Mark. cheers Pat
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Steven had his model on display at the Geelong Wooden Boat Festival held this past weekend; looks even better to the naked eye. He earned some very well deserved praise and kudos for his efforts from the public. cheers Pat
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I go away for a couple of days and boy what a surprise - lovely detail as usual Keith. I am sure even the owner would be hard pressed to differentiate between the real thing and your model when looking at photos. A feast for the eyes. cheers Pat
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Nice library Rob; a good cosy place to settle back for a good read or to take a pleasurable look at the models. Your new case fits into the aesthetics and ambiance of the room very nicely. cheers Pat
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Bar-class boom defence vessel HMS Barbican
BANYAN replied to Edwardkenway's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Hi, have you tried contacting the Royal Navy Records section (held in Kew I think), or even the various Royal Navy Museums. You never know what you might uncover. They have been very helpful with my various inquiries. cheers Pat -
Hi Justin, I also had concerns. I only make up small batches at a time in a small glass jar and reuse it as much as possible. If stored in a darkened area (no direct exposure to sunlight), or in a dark glass jar (I prefer clear as you can monitor the chemical process when using it), you can store and reuse it for up to a year or so at a time depending on how much you use it. If the solution starts covering/blackening erratically, or takes much longer to be effective, it is time for change. One sign I look for is that the solution does not return to a relative clear state some time after use, then it is time to start looking at a new batch. The bluer it stays, the less effective I find it works (after use and letting it sit for a while). To dispose of it, I find an area in my garden where it will have minimal contact with tree/plant roots etc, pour the solution onto a thick bunched up wad of paper towels and then let the paper dry. The paper tends to filter the solution (not completely); once dry I throw the paper into the waste (general waste not recyclable). Still not completely removing the chemical residue from waste but better than pouring down the grey water drain? cheers Pat
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More kudos on the thwarts, stinger and shield production line Steven. look forward to seeing this beauty again real soon. cheers Pat
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Sounds like a nice way to display this beauty Rob, look forward to seeing the completed case. cheers Pat
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Nice cosy library you have there Rob, pity you can't get it higher but has the advantage of better shoing the rigging and looking down on to the upper deck. cheers Pat
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Haven't looked in for a while Keith as my PC was hacked and I have been rebuilding (the PC and not the model unfortunately ) - that boom turned out terrific. I will have to try your method as I tend to taper as I go on the lathe and as you pointed out, a steady rest is important for that technique. Your method would provide a better 'bed' for the rest being a series of flat steps. cheers Pat
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Just back after a PC disaster Rob (got hacked0 - sorry to hear you had to change the planned display position for your model but you seemed to have resolved a good solution. cheers Pat
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Ditto on the compliments Eberhard; just back with my new PC and catching up. Very nice workmanship as usual. cheers Pat
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Back up and running with my new PC (after being hacked ) - looks great Steven, nice recovery on the lower bank of oars, and I agree, they look very realistic. cheers Pat
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Greg, I purchased some 'high end' cutters from a company here in Australia (square and round/ball ended) down to 0.25mm, in both 2 and 4 flute versions depending on their size/availability. These are specially coated and not cheap, but I have had no issues whatsoever since purchasing them about 15 years ago. I have used them mainly on wood, but occasionally brass. I think that if you purchase from a reputable/good company such as Harvey Tools, they should be of equal quality? cheers Pat
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Some of the references to them being the same may be poorly worded references to when the jib and flying jib booms were made as one with a shoulder (akin to masts) used to define one from the other. this was more common in Clippers and ships built during the transition from sail to steam. HMCSS Victoria (1855) for example has such a combined 'pole' jib/flying jib. Hope that clarifies on point of contention in your research? cheers Pat
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One option/solution to the associated bit would be to use a small PVC/plastic (stiff) tube, cut to length and epoxied to the side of the jar? The length would be governed by the length of the bit, and leaving some length of the bit exposed to access it. The bottom can be plugged with wadded paper if cutting bit down; but I prefer to stand mine the other way around, so a small softwood plug would suffice. cheers Pat
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Well, you will be ready for a good long sleep by then Keith Nice solution to making the cranse iron, looks good so far. cheers Pat
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Hi, I purchased some Vanda-lay tools when I first started wood ship modelling some 20+ years ago and needed some basic mill and drill press setups on a budget. I used the Vanda-lay Industries set-up for a couple of years, but soon learned I needed something with a higher capacity, more stability, and more accuracy, and have since moved to Sherline and other products. For what they state they do, I found them OK. The dremel, and knock off drills, I used with it were securely held and for small jobs the drill press and cut off saw arrangement worked quite well - though restricted a little in what you can do with such a small set-up. The milling (X and Y tables) are another story though as I was never able to properly stabilize the 'Y' table enough to get accurate work in that axis. This may have been a defective part , or poor operator use, but I think it is more the way it is designed that you cannot get a very stable Y axis platform. That said, as a starting point for small work, where only small work is needed, it is sufficient to the needs. If looking for a mill, at that price point, you are well on the way to a more accurate, higher capacity mill such as a Proxon or even bench top midi-mill. The larger micro/midi mills, can allso be set up to do precision drilling, and small saw operations. All that said, I have seen magnificent models done with hand tools only, and for those smaller jobs this would be a reasonable tool to supplement your tool kit; but, if you are in for the long haul and looking at bashing kits or scratch building, a larger set up would be a good investment rather than using this as a stepping point - BUDGET would be your prime driver I think. I hope that this 'opinion' helps a little. cheers Pat
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Classic! that looks really good Michael; the wood grain/figuring really brings it to life. cheers Pat
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Hi all, before I post more widely I wish to do due diligence and survey members as to whether they are aware of any issues at SeaWatch Books? I am experiencing a delivery issue from them and I have had no response to several emails to them for near on three weeks now? Their web site does not advise of any closure etc. I know they are a small concern, and may be busy, but the failure to read/respond to emails for this long cannot be excused unless there is an underlying problem causing it. regards Pat
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Excellent craftsmanship (as usual) Keith; I think you would have no problem finding a job as a Master Metalsmith in any dockyard (new or old) cheers Pat
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Nice little 'home' for your creation you are assembling there Rob; look forward to seeing it complete. cheers Pat
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Very nice work Eberhard; they came up very well indeed as the inner and outer alignment appear 'perfect'. What is the masking film you have used as the straight/levelling edge please? cheers Pat
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Looks great Steven, and those oarsmen really set it off. As to my earlier comments, I was referencing the lining not so much a waterway. I think that a waterway as you have used it is the way to go. cheers Pat
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