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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Nice work with the death star Mark. Do you have plans t put a temporary riband on those extensions to help brace and protect them? cheers Pat
  2. Who would know what level of 'iggerence' you were at, or had the potential to show, back then mate; I say do it to your current level of 'ignorance'. I show/demonstrate mine on a near-daily basis and have become somewhat 'immune' to outside comments. cheers Pat
  3. Hi Rob, you just need to motorise the 'buggy' and you'll have the Rolls Royce solution What is the hobby you use it for? Astronomy, bird watching --- other? cheers Pat
  4. Hi Anthony, I am not familiar with the Corel kit, but the guns were definitely fitted on the upper decks (see the various build logs including mine for their placement). While there are a few errors in the AOTS by Karl Marquardt, the majority of his drawings are safe to follow - the various build logs identify where the issues are. The following link shows my partially completed build and where I positioned the guns (about half way down); although there is some conjecture that two of these may actually have been on the quarterdeck/poop deck. Allan, as far as I can ascertain, the other ports are airing ports as the spacing and height variance would have made them very awkward but not impossible for use with sweeps. I do recall a mention of sweeps but my assumption (I know - dangerous) has been that the sweeps were used from the upper deck. It has been a while since I researched this vessel, but I think there is actually mention of them as airing ports in his logs/journals? cheers Pat
  5. Hi Anthony, Endeavour did not have gun ports as all the guns were located on the upper deck. What you portray are the loading ports (from her earlier days pre-conversion. The smaller ones in the drawings are the airing ports. cheers Pat
  6. Mark, you could always laminate thinner lengths of the backbone using locating holes for pins to align them - resulting in a thicker ply? cheers Pat
  7. Great gundeck BW; I think you 'nailed' the ringbolt positioning. That supervisor of yours gets around doesn't he; I hope he has received an extra 'tot' fr his efforts cheers Pat
  8. Just to add to the conversation; whatever you use you have to consider that wood WILL move (swell/reduce) with humidity etc. If using grained woods try to match the grain direction on both sides using the same wood type. If no room is allowed between some sections it may distort the hull but probably minimal? May not be as great an issue once all the planks are on as this will provide additional rigidity. The more experienced will know. The bulkheads are usually ply so they are not prone to this wood movement. I have used balasa successfully BUT I always coat the outer (gluing) surface with a diluted PVA glue solution to fill the 'pores' and give a better sticking surface to the filler. cheers Pat
  9. Sorry to enter late Mark, but gad to see you back in the workshop and making great progress - an interesting subject and your previous experience with Licorne will help greatly. cheers Pat
  10. I agree with your summation Hallibag as to it being from the Arsenal - Carriage Department. The Rod stamped on it may indicate a proofing device for some of the rods used in the the carriage (1926)? The attached may have something as there are 3 parts - Army, Coastal Defense and Naval gun Carriages discussed. I have only perused the Naval section (Part 3) at the moment and do not recall seeing it, but.... cheers Pat Treatise_on_military_carriages_ W Kemmis 1974.pdf
  11. Nice job on the sea 'colour' - looks like a Force 6-7 on the Beaufort scale. cheers Pat
  12. Sorting yourself out is the highest priority mate; ships in ordinary stayed there for years. My thoughts and wishes are with you. regards Pat
  13. WRT to the upper stringer/strake on top of the gunwale - that was just 'planning for the future' wasn't it Far easier to carve/place the mortices in the new strake for the bench tenons, then cutting slots cheers Pat
  14. Hi Dave, following your build with some interest as I am making a version for use with my 'Air Eraser'. I have read that the fumes from paint can be a fire hazard and that the extractor fans should be well away? I note though that many manufacturers have them on the booth body as well so can't be that much of a problem, especially if there is a filter ayer before the motor? Have you investigated this? cheers Pat
  15. Just found this log Rob; very nice work - I really like the way you are taking this diorama. Hope you will be adding some storm lines/rails for the crew cheers Pat
  16. Nice work, and clear photography Won't be long before you have the upper deck planking on now Mark cheers Pat
  17. Not to confuse the situation further, but I think it depends on the era the ship was built. According to Robert Kipping and John Fincham (both published books on Masting and Rigging in 1854), masts in that era (mid-19th century) were given as hounded and headed lengths (deck/partners to the hound stop, and then the masthead length.. The housing (below the deck) was not given and depended on where the mast was stepped. As this period was during the emerging 'steam' period, many Mizen masts were stepped on the Orlop as the screw shaft was in the way and prevented stepping it on the keel. Also, many ships were also moving to the use of an iron-cage or cradle style of stepping in the boiler rooms (these were quite large) so that the steam and heat did not interfere / burn the mast housing. These started to appear as early as the very early 1830s- thumbnail image of NMM image ZAZ6753. cheers Pat
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