BANYAN

The base of the mast is hidden below the deck planking anyway Steven, so won't be seen - your solution will work well for the model (and keeps it within the theme of staying true to your earlier efforts). cheers Pat

Hi Keith, a thought from left field: those brackets look substantial, if there are another set forward, could these be lifting points for lifting the hull out of the water? Unlikely noting the size of the hull but... cheers Pat

Not too much grizzling from this 'baby' as she gets her teeth I hope? looking good Steven cheers Pat

That furling looks pretty effective Rob. Another fine example of ships of this era. cheers Pat

For the holes consider a metal template. I cannot recall the builder/member that posted this concept (back in MSW ver 1.0 I think) , but it comprised a metal tube soldered to a plate with the ID of the tube being the same as the OD of the turned deadeye (or you could bore out a solid rod/square stock) to the right diameter on the lathe. This acts as the holder for the deadeye and the tube should be just deep enough to hold the deadeye, a base wood piece so you don't damage the drill bits, and for the next part (the template) to fit in also. The template is made the same diameter as the deadeye. Carefully place and drill the 3 holes in the template, accuracy is key here but a lot of time is saved in taking the time to do this only once. Put the template over a deadeye blank in the tube and then drill the holes in each deadeye using the template as the guide. This allows you to consistently place the holes in each deadeye - the most difficult being to get the template right. The last bit then is to use a pointed fine needle file, or a cord type grit/sanding line, to put a slight groove into each hole in the direction of the pull of the rope. I hope that helps? cheers Pat

Ah the joys of finding further information; only too familiar with that problem in my build. I also took the same approach; it was the best I had at the time but I have recorded it. The shields are looking great and will add a real 'oomph' to the overall build when they are in place (sorry about the highly technical terminology). cheers Pat

I am sure these 'lads' can wait for a while Nice work on the shields and rough carving. cheers Pat

Thanks Denis; appreciate you looking in and for the encouragement. What are you working on at the moment? I miss you fishing boats cheers Pat

Thanks for the comments and encouragement Eberhard, Steven and John - much appreciated. cheers Pat

Some further work started as I received the PE I had drawn up, which I then send off to have etched. The sheet is .025mm thick Cheek Blocks - once I have parted the the base (backing) and top piece s off, I give them a touch up with the file. I then drill out/clean up the holes to 0.6 mm diameter, then fold down the side pieces. I then thread the base, sheave and top piece onto some 0.6mm brass wire and place into one of the holes in the soldering jig ready for soldering. Once silver soldered, they need to be cleaned up before blackening. I have also completed the Bowsprit Cap, adding the upper side lugs (for the foot ropes out to the end of the Jibboom) and the horns for the manropes (lead aft to stanchions on the knight heads. The two horns have holes through the knob for the manropes but cannot be seen in the photo. The lower side lugs are for the Bowsprit Guys/shrouds, and the bottom lugs for the martingale (forward hole) and the Bobstay. The start of the process for making this is shown at post #528 earlier on this page. the whole of this assembly has been silver soldered together for strength. Solder was needed for holding the base of the pin in the drilled holes as the depth is only about 0.2 mm and CA would have marred the blackening process. The size of these made polishing the brass very difficult, especially with such thin walls etc; so some scratch/filing marks remain. These are very close up shots, that I have sharpened a bit which enhances the scratches; the marks cannot be seen to the naked eye from about 150mms (6 inches) away. cheers Pat

Thanks all for looking in and supportive comments. John, I hadn't thought on that but it is intended to service a special ash wheelbarrow (also to be made) - hence the height Thanks Keith, another option was to mill them from brass round stock (the idea from your marvelous build), but as I had already invested in the after-market pipes, I thought this a better option as my accuracy for both boring out (no reamers yet) and controlling consistent wall thickness is not quite up to par yet . I wasn't worried about using brass washers etc as I will be painting these parts; it was the overall finished effect I need to achieve. Thanks Carl and BW; thanks for the reminder, I do need to do a good overhead and profile shots showing the additional details - I'll do that after fitting the air intakes etc. cheers Pat

Orion, I think investing in the AOTS "Capt Cook's Endeavour' (Used versions available at a very reasonable cost) or Ray Parkin's 'H.M. Bark Endeavour' which is more expensive, will be your best option. Bothe these should provide sufficient detail to make the necessary parts; both have good drawings. The most important thing will be to scale the drawings accordingly (AL kit is 1:60 if I recall). A lateral option may be to look to see if another model maker/production company does a kit at the same scale and you might be able to use their use their stern with some slight modifications? Also, I cannot recall the name now (it was something like Laser O) , but there was someone making the stern facia (decorations etc) which would simplify the project considerably for you. cheers Pat

Hi again folks, I have been slowly progressing some more of the metal work. first was the 'charlie noble' for the galley stove, which will be fitted just forward of the forward mast. This was made from 3mm thin walled tubing, filed with a 'V' notch, folded/bent around a flexible internal former, then soldered. A small piece of .6mm ID tube was also soldered into the top of the bent top to accept the rod for the 'sealing/weather flap', this won't be fitted until much of the forward rigging has been completed. It doesn't look it but the bent part is very nicely rounded; just a poor angle I took the shot. Now that I have made some decisions WRT to what 'may have' been fitted to meet the Contract's requirement ' to fit air shoots to the hold'. As this was specified under 'Joiners' Work, I have decided the most likely solution will have been similar to "HMS Warrior" which were formed wooden trunks fitted to the bulkhead, with a bent metal air intake on the upper deck. These will have had vents.outlets at the appropriate points for the Holds and probably fitted with a manually cranked ventilation unit, probably the one designed by Lang (ship's designer) himself based on the one invented by his father ( a copy of a sketch is held by the NMM. This unit drew the air down and also worked as a 'splitter' with separate piping to various storerooms within the forward and after holds. These were usually fitted as pairs so I have decided to fit a pair forward and a pair aft. I am assuming the reason I cannot see one in the photograph of the crew on the after upper deck, is that these intakes were fitted very close to the margin boards close to the bulwark, and as such will have been hidden behind the gun carriage in the photo. I have used a plastic after-market part for the bent pipe, but I am making the base which will be inserted into the deck to hold the upper part. The base has been made using brass thin wall tubing with an ID the same as the OD of the part. To this, I have silver soldered a washer with the right ID to fit the tubing (using my resistance soldering vise) then turned the washer on the lathe to get approximately the right 'flange width and height. The tubing was held in the vise at approximately the correct height while I soldered the washer; but the neck extension was parted while on the lathe to the correct height. Once assembled I think they will look the part. I used an after-market part simply for the sake of speed and because it had the right detail for the securing flap. The photos show the parts, and 2 completed base parts (2 more made since), the soldering vise and set-up, and the unit in the lathe ready to be turned. cheers Pat

Hi Rob, another late arrival - I have only had a quick look at the log but will spend some more time on it in the coming days. Another nice build and I love the way you display it. cheers Pat

I'm late to the party yet again That'll teach me to hang out in the back streets! Great subject matter for this build Greg; should be another beauty. Geez that PE is nice, I would love to know how they do it so cleanly. I am seriously thinking of taking this (PE) up so that I can do more detail in my builds a little more cheaply. Ok, I'll get back in the peanut gallery now. cheers Pat

Some nice details there; she's coming along very nicely. cheers Pat

Very nice work Keith, she is looking great. cheers Pat

Not mucking around are you; you are making excellent progress. cheers Pat

Beautifully detailed Eberhard, especially at that scale. cheers Pat

Hi Eberhard; agree on the high prices. One small point is that while the vise looks like the standard jeweler's/engraver's one, it is fitted with a lead at the base such that the vise head becomes one path (ground) of the two electrodes when energized. This does not detract from the pricing issue (probably as a result that nowhere near as many units as a standard electrical soldering station are sold). I also have found that I very rarely use it and prefer my own soldering jig. The rest of the unit, while expensive has proven its worth to me in that once I learned to control the power for the job at hand, it has saved me a lot of costs in wasted time and parts. Dr PR - WRT probes, I have used a single probe hundreds of times with no tip or other breakages, all it does is get shorter with use; must have been a bad lot? I do however, every so often give the tips a bit of a clean to remove some of the carbon buildup. I bought a package of replacement probes at time of purchase to save on future shipping costs, but I doubt I will ever use them all Never know though. cheers Pat

This the binnacle I built for my Endeavor (1770); this solution puts the binnacle over the skylight, with a compass either side, to allow for the helmsman to steer depending on where the wind was from. The binnacle is unlikely to go over a companion as the crew need to enter/leave via the companion hatch. However it could back into the other side and would therefore be a small construction. cheers Pat

A very useful tool; you don't happen to have a local manufacturer that would do these on a 'limited' production run for you do you? Some very clever ideas you have developed in this jig - thanks for sharing. cheers Pat

Oh come on now; you have to have a team of elves out the back doing this? Truely beautiful detail; you are a master craftsman - I think any cabinet maker would be proud of those furniture items, yet alone these being at scale! Is that small vise / gripper you show at post #67, 7 down a purchased item? With your skills, you probably made this? It looks a very handy tool/accessory. If you made this would you please show some other shots of it? DSC01115.JPG.62923c7e9edf6173126b42106c0c3069.jfif cheers Pat

When you finish this model Keith I am going to make a copy of the log and edit to my own needs as an exampler of how to do it right! Many thanks for continuing to show your techniques in such great detail. Oh, and probably no need to say, but exquisite detail. cheers Pat

Kudos and congrats Rob; stunning model and very nicely displayed. You have done a great job on her; now I need to get off my butt and get more done on the Victoria. cheers Pat