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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Chris, the attached is for wire rope but I dare say it would not be too much different? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi Thomas, many thanks for your very informative response which is most helpful. I had no problems with you English at all, so please no need for any apologies. As a matter of fact it is better than mine perhaps and it is my first language I had anticipated a considerable learning curve and a certain amount of wastage in experimenting so thanks for confirming that. I am still not sure which path/method to take/use, but l am leaning towards the photo-resist method at the moment. I will do a bit more reading of Gene's tutorial, and anything else I find on the subject, before deciding on which method to use. I think, to a large degree, this will be governed by the availability of resources, the chemicals in particular. The chemicals cannot be posted/mailed here so I will have to develop a method for chemicals and products I can source locally. Many thanks again, I will now have a much deeper read and be in a better position to experiment. regards Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Hi folks, back with another small progress reports. I have started work on completing the armament; 6 x broadside guns - Dundas 32pdr 25cwt on rear chock carriages) and 1 x pivot gun (Blomefield 32 pdr 56cwt on an Improved Ferguson Slide). I have not shown the pivot gun as it is still being reworked a little. I have completed the six carriage (with the exception of blackening the wheels) and I have now painted the gun barrels (were 3D printed). The barrels were airbrushed with Mr. Metal dark iron and I think look reasonably realistic in colour? I started assembling one as a prototype (version 2) to ensure all works. I have yet to do the capsquares over the trunnions, and fit the breeching rope through the cascabel loop. These will be seized to ring bolts before fitting to the ship. The carriage shows the wheels painted but yet to be burnished to remove some of the lumpiness. Please remember these are in very close-up so look a lot worse here than to the naked eye I have manage to get the rear elevating worm screw to actually work, but I would not try this once fitted on the model; hopefully I do not put too much glue on the capsquares to stop the gun elevating/depressing. The barrel is only dry fitted at the moment so it looks a little off-centre. It will be corrected when the capsquares are fitted. I have managed to show a bit of the detail even at this scales including the gunlock, dispart (fore) sight and Millers after sight. I even managed to keep my hands steady enough to paint them bronze without making a real hash of it, but could do with some improvement I will attempt to add a very small lanyard to the lock but I am not holding my breath on that one. and yes, I have files one side of the trunnion bar off-angle but this will be hidden under the capsquare and I do not wish to muck-up the paint at this late stage I have also added a photo of an actual gun fitted in the ship for reference. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Dziadeczek, Thank you for the interesting post. This is something I am going to try myself in the near future. Is it possible for you to provide some details on the process and the chemicals you used? This would make an extremely useful tutorial and I am sure others also would appreciate it? For example how you transfer the the image to the brass, do you sit the sheet in the batch of chemicals, or hang it or raise it off the bottom with posts etc etc. Your gingerbread turned out very nicely, clean sharp edges. What size brass plate did you use for this - 0.3mm? Also why did you include the ruler/scale - was this to ensure no loss in accuracy when transferring? Stay safe, best regards Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks all for your continued interest, comments, suggestions and 'likes'. Eberhard, I agree about files etc on 3D printed object; especially this media as it makes the problem worse rather than better in these very small items. That is why you see the small bumps on the pedestal (not visual to the naked eye) and gather sparked your comment. I remember you discussion on those 'separation strips' from another log but had forgotten them - I think I need to find some and possibly invest in one of those so called 'bow' sanders plastic modellers use a lot. I am still debating whether to leave dobs to represent the black 'writing' in the EO; or, should I try to break it up a bit with white to try and break out individual characters?, Unfortunately being 3D printed I could not insert a card in this EOT, but I like the idea Drixey and Eberhard discuss. I used something similar for the rudder/wheel telltale (shown in a much earlier post). cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    And, will help considerably with identifying the your rigging details for the ship. Nice catch! Very nice work on the Parrot guns; you would never know that was wood. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice adaptions Eberhard, I get tool envy every time you post one of these beauties cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Hi all, shown below is my first attempt of the EOT. This was 3D printed and is only 11mm high with the panels in the Engine Order face less than a mm wide and about 1.5mm long. This is extreme close up so shows a lot of bumps etc that are not visible to the naked eye. The Mr Metal "Brass" has yet to be polished which will smooth these out somewhat. the dabs of black are supposed to represent order positions (slow ahead, half ahead, full ahead etc). At this scale and my shaky hands this is the best I can achieve and looks OK to the naked eye. The second photo shows the EOT and one of the gun carriages with the brass wheels painted with Mr Metal "Iron"; again they need to polished and unfortunately, the photo implies the lot is painted but the wood of the truck is not painted, nor is the internal part of the axletree stub. I will try to get a better photo. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Very nice work, she is looking very good indeed. I especially like the effect of the tarred roof/deck - very realistic. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Thanks again everyone for the very kind remarks and useful comments/suggestions. I am learning a lot from these processes and I am am still not happy with some of the pieces, but I have to make some progress - so they stay. I have started work on completing the broadside guns as I have still procrastinating whether just to add simple stand-alone sheet bitts to each/all masts, or whether to add cross-pieces to the Fore and Main. I have a quandary in that the Contract states sheet bits to be fitted, but in another specifies crosspieces, BUT, I currently interpret this as being for the gallows only. However, this just ambiguous enough to also refer to the sheet bitts as similar treatment has been used for other items. Also, the plans for the contemporary Arrow and Vigilant class ships show cross pieces on the main mast bitts, but one shows on both masts, but the other only on for the main mast bitts. The mizen is definitely only the sheet bitts as per the plans and photographic evidence. I am leaning to just bitts as the masts were also fitted with spider bands at the base of each mast which will accept the lines usually belayed to the cross piece pins. Thanks again for all for looking in Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Very nice work Steven; that will certainly add a pop of colour to the model. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Nice work Steven, you are probably carving these in your sleep now. What better then sitting out in some of this nice autumn weather and doing this though Are you doing a 'pace/timing keeper' also? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Hi all, very many thanks for looking in and the very kind comments. John, Eberhard - yes the air intakes look large but I am using the sizes (scaled) as fitted to HMS Warrior (only 5 years later) as my 'guide'. I agonised over this for some time and did consider going smaller, but as these intakes did service a large space (each pair), so I decided to stay with them. Also, if I had used Cowels, they will have been of roughly the same diameter (pipe) and roughly the same height. They do 'look' a bit wrong, but a small intake simply would not have drawn enough air and as this is the size fitted in Warrior, and that Victoria's Bulwark was very low (just over three feet- normal was 5 feet- ish), I decided to go with them. They didn't look too bad off the model, but after fitting they do appear a little oversized. Eberhard, WRT to the after bench, another item I agonized over. The only photo I have (at deck level not overhead) shows this as solid wood, but I may have been looking at the solid edges/ledgers). The photo does not show any dappling or filtered light beneath the bench so I have assumed it was solid. Druxey, WRT to metal truck lining I am going by the drawings I have. In reality they should be iron, not shiny brass but all my attempts to fit blackened rims resulted in scratches. My hope is if I can hold my hands steady enough to paint them black when all the remaining work on them is completed. I now have the 3D printed barrels so should be able to complete them soon. Once the barrels and cap squares have been fitted, I will reeve the breech ropes and seize them to the ring bolts and then sort out the 'shiny wheels' :), then I can fit the guns by fitting the pre-seized ringbolts to the roughtree (rising) timbers in the Bulwark. Thanks again all for looking in and the 'thumb's up" and comments; I value all feedback. If the concensus is that these are too big I will look at how I might remove them (they hare held with CA (metal to wood strength) and try to make lower versions. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    And, as Beef Wellington asked, here are some overview shots showing the rest of the ship at the current state of build cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Another small update folks. I have finished and fitted the air vents; the start of these were shown in an earlier post. After airbrushing them white, I added some simulated some bolt heads on the flange to simulate them being bolted to the deck. These were punched from foil (0.5mm hex shape) then painted in situ. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Nice result Keith; a good process you have developed. I'll tuck that idea away also . cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Keith, just offer to exchange your model for the real thing; same quality of workmanship cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Exceptional skills with such clean results. I especially like your scarf template; a great idea. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Nice work Keith, those protection bars should come up a treat. I used the same process but wood rather than metal batons in one skylight, then rather than chance the drilling had the batons for the protective bars photo etched (cheating I know ) cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi Candice, welcome to the hobby. Another source for your products are Jewellery Suppliers which more often than not have online services. Most supply 'patina' products which are specific to different types of metals. You can also try a stained glass or arts supplier, as they have patina chemicals for the lead and other metals. I have found supplies at gunsmiths (probably shut) but some may be on line. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Some very nice detailing Keith; looks great. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    If not for lifting the ship Keith, what about a section of the deck to remove the engine, generator etc? Nice progress and always a pleasure to view this log. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Sure, but that is why I said when it did shine cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, pity about that knot, though once it has been smoothed it should mostly remain unseen? WRT the flange, to me that indicates the block may have been inset into the bulwark or bitt etc, with the flange acting to stop it going through? Alternatively though, if the flange was on the inside of the eye of an attached rope (based on direction of 'pull') it could be there to stop the eye being pulled off, much like a grove serves on a deadeye? cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Nice work Steven; a difficult and very 'fiddly' part to make which you have achieved admirably. Were the insides white though; would have cooked the poor lookout when the sun did shine? cheers Pat

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