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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Slow but steady? More like an Olympic paced sprint Steven (oh sorry that has been postponed hasn't it) Some great progress you are making - the model is really looking good. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    If an uneven set of shrouds (say 5 shrouds per side - 2 pairs and a single) the last leg (sometimes called a Swifter) had an eye or Cont splice in the middle of the length, which is sufficient to be passed around the deadeye either side and seized back on itself), with the eye passed over the masthead. The first /leading leg of each shroud set was usually served all the way down to minimize wear-and-tare from the sails/bolt ropes rubbing on them. The pairs were rigged as described by Dave. So, for this example, you would have two pairs of shrouds per side, each pair would have been doubled and throat seized around the mast head, a single leg with the Cont splice (middled) was passed over the mashead as the after shroud legs. The ratlin' was then applied depending on the period in which the ship was built. To get a good fit for the seizing/loop, to keep the seizing close to the masthead, use an off cut of the same diameter dowel placed in a piece of scrap to tie them off the model, then fit the pairs etc in the correct sequence as described by Dave. There are some good tips and videos available in this forum / You Tube etc to show how to do seizings (if you need them). cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    HI Kevin, Sorry for the delay but the time zones interfere with quick communications; not that it will make much difference as you have realised (due to closures etc). For the same reasons, cost of transport etc, I put together a package I thought I would need. The following are my experiences BUT it all depends on how much you use the unit, and for what purposes. I mostly use it for smaller jobs and use a small torch (hand held) for bigger (not real big) jobs. I have built a special soldering jig for my purposes which comprises a 6 x 4 inch soldering pad (with holes) and a GRS single arm articulated arm and some special hold down fingers (based on the Gerald Wingrove rig). Firstly, I must say that the guys at American Beauty were very helpful in putting together my kit, and also for the one small issue I had. The LED in the on/off switch stopped working, but the unit itself was still functional. I am not an agent etc just a very happy user. Our power supply is 240V which required them to put together a unit that also met our Certifications Standards - no problem for them at all. I opted for the Super Chief kit as the power/resistence range is ideal for our needs; even then I mostly operate with the lowest settings. I have even been able to control the soldering power to the point of safely soldering Photo Etched (PE) parts.. I ordered the unit with the tongs (came as a package - Super Chief) but I rarely use the tongs. I also ordered the hands free vise (product #105V12) - not sure they still sell it as it did not come up in a quick search I did. The truth is I rarely use it as I can do most jobs with a special set of leads I had made up that include an alligator clip on one lead and a single probe on the other. I had two sets done, one with the normal size aligator clip and another with a micro clip (be sure to ask for one with good gripping power/capacity as the small one I ordered initially had no grip at all . Also, be sure to order some additional probes. For those in Australia, "COLTRONICS" (ask for James) in Sydney is the Aussie Agent - very helpful. No association etc, just a happy customer of these products. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Kevin, I am a real fan of resistance soldering and I use the Super Chief unit you showed in the video. By dialing down the power/resistance, I am able to achieve some very small soldered joints even close to each other; although, if you can use a heat sink that is better. To do this the most important thing, as with any soldering type, is to develop/use a jig that will hold the items in place while you make the joint. Also, a 'clean' tight joint always works best, but I have managed to gap fill using this method. My preferred method is to put a dab of 'NoKarode' flux between and around the joint and place a small pellet (small piece cut from the wire) of solder on the opposite side of the joint so it flows towards the heat source. I have found that sometimes depending where you place the points of the rod/clip affects this, so sometimes I need to reverse the leads to the unit. I prefer to use a lead with an alligator/crocodile clip on one side as that frees your hands and provides a good contact - American Beauty can make these up for you. I use the single probe lead to then place the point at which I wish to supply heat. For joints closer together I use different melt point solders, as for any other type of soldering. As you can see from the attached, the small eyes and the lug at the base (shown on top) of this bowsprit cap I am assembling, are quite close together and I was able to achieve this with no heat sinks, including soldering the side plates. The piece is still being completed and a bit of clean-up still required. I prefer to use silver solder for its strength and variety of melting points even if there is no real pressure being applied to the joints. I stay away from the premix silver solders and cored rosin solders as I find they leave too much residue which affects the blackening process (even if I pickle) but if you are painting this should not be a problem and will widen the range of melting points for you. I hope this helps? cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    I hope you are able to recover your Company after this awful pandemic Hubert. Thanks for explaining the detail and sequence Keith, makes sense once you explained it. Thanks to Eberhard for the additional comment; yes not intuitive but logical (starting to sound like a 'Vulcan' now; no pointy ears last time checked ) cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    That should work well Steven. Now to set up the production line For those whom may have been concerned of my offer to Steven in these troubling times, I am self-isolating as best as we can and make such offers very judiciously (only to people whom we know well enough to feel comfortable will have taken every precaution and would not travel if there is even the slightest hint of being unwell). cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Man-o-man you achieve some very nice detail into your metalwork. I am still trying to figure how you did those flanges on the elbow (a bit of file work I am assuming?) Works of art Keith! cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Thanks for sharing this Kurt, you have just given me the solution for making 'cheek blocks' for the yards and bowsprit of my model A small modification, drill a hole for the sheaves and not open the top, a bit of rounding with a file and hey presto. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Steven, the offer is still good to use the scroll saw for cutting/ rough shaping the carving blocks if you are game to travel? cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Thanks for sharing Peta, a modified (and better) version of a method I have been using. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, it is possible that the rounds were passed up to the upper deck through a hatch/trunk/hoist from the shell room. It would make sense then that only a single greasing station would be required as the crew would grab the round from the hoist, grease it and pass it to the required gun station. Could the device be a combined hoist/greasing station? Not trying to complicate the matter, just a suggestion. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast) At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer. WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need. The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket. I will replace that with a metal one (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it). I have also made a start on the bowsprit. I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork. The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture. I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them. The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc. Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes. The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs. Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed and touching wood as I say that). I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening. The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    As good a 'solution' as any could determine, and it makes some sense Keith. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    You are probably right on the object not being a crane Keith. To clarify, I should have said the 'pedestal' for a crane. Like the base/pedestal of this one in the thumbnail (credit: NMM Collections ZAZ6824) - the top/arm part may have been a lot smaller though and removed when not in use? All that said though, your other considerations seems to put paid to that suggestion I hope you can find an answer to that one. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, a very interesting question. 1:120 - wow - respect! I am a masochist of sorts in that I often let my ambitions/dreams get in the way of reality. When it comes to detail, I feel that the more I can add the better (feel compelled as you say), but often I am forced into a reality check as there is only so much that can be achieved (especially with my amateurish skills) at this scale (let alone 1:120) - If I can do it it goes on and I will try many times before submitting to 'failure'. More often than not this is some minor/small detail on an item. As an example, I am currently grappling with 'compressors' fitted to the pivot gun, very difficult as they are only 4mm x 2.5mm with rails/sides only .5mm thick. These may end up being slightly oversized and only the basic form produced/used - time will tell. The real trick I think is establishing some form of threshold as you have done and simply get on with it. Thanks for looking in. Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Welcome to 1:72 club then Tony, if there is anything I can help out with just holler. By necessity I am having to do a lot of research on ships of this era so if I can minimise your research efforts, happy to share what I have assembled. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, somehow I have missed this log; apologies. I will have to be careful not to mix the two Keith's up Great to see another model of a ship of this era. There are many elements in her I see in my HMCSS Victoria also. You have done a great job with her so far. That object you see may be a 'crane'. Victoria's Contract required the fitting of 2 x portable cranes for coaling and the removal of ash - your object, if a crane, look to be more likely to be a fixed type. The object you show/circled appears to be located in a position that would serve this requirement for one of the stoke holes at least? If it is a crane, there would possibly have been another also, I am sure they will have been used for other purposes such as storing ship. A search of the NMM elicited two designs for portable deck cranes in the 1850s, but they were generally too large for my needs, but appear to be a closer match, but not an exact match, to yours. If you search the NMM Collections>Ship Plans>Equipment for drawings ZAZ6825 and ZAZ6824 you will find the examples I mentioned. cheers, and stay safe Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Hi Tony; a very subjective question as it depends on how much detail you wish to show and are capable of achieving. The real artist in this scale is Ed Tosti (Young America) who achieves even better detail. See what Wefalck also achieves at much smaller scale For models where the overall model size is the driver, I find 1:72 is a good compromise scale. There are also some commercial/aftermarket parts available (eg copper plates) to complement my efforts, and the scale remains 'big' enough for making scratch parts with a fair degree of detail although not to the level you could achieve at 1:48 or even 1:60. Once I have determined HOW, the making soon resolves itself. but I take a fair bit of inspiration from the likes of Michael Mott, Keith Aug and Wefalck. I must admit that at times though it can be frustrating but perseverance will win through eventually. I have found using a bit of PE to make up the parts (layering etc) has been very beneficial. I am lucky there in that I am having to draw up the plans for the ship and equipment as I go so I have drawings that do not need a lot of extra work to turn into something suited to have PE done. Again I am lucky as there is a guy located here in Melbourne who does PE (rather than having to learn yet another skill). He is experienced and often spares me the time to work through the best way to create the parts (how to determine the individual parts, fold lines, shadow lines etc). For example many of the parts for the pipe/valve fittings for the Downton pumps were done this way. Overall, 1:72 is a good scale to work with, it is a good compromise between the level of detail achievable and size of the model itself; but does bring a few frustrations along for the ride cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    The detail on those shields is remarkable Steven; you have a much steadier hand than me my friend. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Thanks for the explanation; they are among the best fittings I have seen made - you truly have a remarkable talent. Thanks for sharing Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Great to hear you are well Michael, and hopefully you and family will all continue to have good health. I am sure many would be interested in your 'other activity' Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Hopefully you may be able to get the model out of 'detention' John so that you can work on her at home. Good luck and best health to all! Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Not much more to do now Rob; looking good! cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Ditto - flawless process. cheers Pat

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