BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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You did a very nice job on this build Dashi, congratulations on completing her (to this point) cheers Pat -
Nice concept Mark; I like the bread n' butter approach and shows the benefits of having a laser cutter. cheers Pat
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Impressive work Keith. While you are at it can I order another 100 at 1:72 cheers Pat
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Gun Spile
BANYAN replied to Mark Allen's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Dr PR, you may be referencing 'chocks'? Also, I am wondering if it may be a misprin=t and actually referring to 'gun spikes' used to help train the gun? cheers Pat -
How to use a Circle Cutter by Dan Vadas
BANYAN replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks good Dan and thanks for the feedback and tips. cheers Pat -
Could she have carried a small boat up there? or perhaps a painters plank? However, these maybe out of character with the rest of the vessel and the 'patch up a more palatable solution. cheers Pat
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I had the pleasure of seeing this model first-hand last night and the detail is exquisite! Looks even better than the high quality shown in the photographs. Cheers Pat
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All that brass work, must have kept the crew busy with the "Brasso" Nice work as usual Keith, look forward to seeing the holes all filled. cheers Pat
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Glenn, if you are still monitoring the site, I have missed your regular postings of this fine model; glad to see her in her finished state. cheers Pat
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Beautiful work, they look excellent. Are you going to imitate the wood with paint? cheers Pat
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Ah the joys of micro modelling; glad to see you still maintain a sense of humour about it. cheers Pat
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Sorry to be late to the party Keith :). That is a great finish to the hawse pipes and typical of your excellent metal work . I like the turning set-up cheers Pat
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Looks great despite the lighting issues mate; you can be justifiably happy with your results. cheers Pat
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I think experimentation is the only way to find out for sure. Looking at the illustration, I think putting 24 onto 22, then that assembly onto 23 looks easier. I would also use two different temp solders, and use the higher tem on 24/22 first. it might also help to make two small wooden jigs/rests onto which to rest the parts while soldering - shape these so that the two parts are at their correct respective heights to each other, with a front and rear 'lip' ( or simply use a small piece of blue tack at front and extreme rear) to keep them in place; scrap wood will do the job. I wouldn't worry about the blue tack being a heat sink as it will be far enough away from the joint. I think your biggest concern will be 'blowing' holes in the brass with too much heat (depending on its thickness)so some heat sinks may even be beneficial. cheers Pat
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Looking forward to the pics; glad the renno went well for you. cheers Pat
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That deck colouring looks great Keith. The jig you used for shaping the deck is ingenious (simple and very effective-noted for future use ;)) cheers Pat
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Hi Roger and Eberhard, I have taken a look in May (where I should have looked first - duh!) which largely resolved my issues based on his explanations. It is not so much the type of the boat (construction/form), but often the name was applied for the purposes it was used/issued (establishment). initially, most boats were introduced and built to a 'type' but later convention was that the naming evolved when certain boats were used for specific purposes apparently. The whaler was double ended, but as it was also 'used' as a barge hence it is called by various names, with the gig also called the Pinnace when used for the Captain's use. Similarly, a galley could be the cutter/lifeboat. cheers, appreciate the feedback. Pat
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Magnifying headset advice....
BANYAN replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ditto Dave, I am currently using a brand with interchangeable acrylic lenses which I have grown to dislike for two reasons. First they mark and scratch easily, and secondly, if changing out the lenses, their designs make them prone to easy breakage (and if you accidently stress the folding mechanism. I would rather pay for a good set of glass lenses now I think and have started looking around. My criteria now are: 1. I would prefer glass lenses with at least 3 levels of magnification with focus (work) point at about 15 to 20 inches 2. hI would also prefer a head band mounted version (rather than spectacles add on, preferably with LED light mount option 3. Open sides so as not to restrict view angle range (loupes are too restrictive). Some brands that come are are the higher end Donegan 'optivisor' with glass inserts, Magni pros, and DKM. I will be very interested in better better quality versions if that is the way you prefer to go also. I seem to go through the cheaper ones all to fast (but may be a sign of my aging eyes ) cheers Pat -
Now that is a clever way of resolving that problem! You were fortunate to find eyelets to the exact diameter you needed, which sure saved on some manufacturing. cheers Pat
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Thanks Tony, you made my day with your comment re local history; exactly what I am trying to achieve here - preserve the history of this ship and, thanks also for the 'kudos'. cheers Pat- 993 replies
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That is some very nice clean work Keith, a pleasure following this build and learning some new ways to to do things. cheers Pat
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