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Gregory

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  1. Gregory
    Terry, My tutorials would be more of a " what not to do " when developing laser patterns.. My experience has been real hit and miss before there was much expertise available. I enjoy making the stuff I do, and my tools and workflow have improved, but I don't want to compete with the pros. The logistics are a bit challenging, and it needs to remain fun for me. I am always open to helping a fellow MSW member with a 1-off project if my skills and their needs can find a common ground. Gregory
  2. Gregory
    Hi Rob B, FWIW, Mamoli kits do not come with a separate parts list. All the information is documented on the plan sheets. Sometimes there is a color chart for the wood on the inside of the box, but as you can imagine it may not be much help. Your best guide is the measurement of the wood, and the quantity, which can be loosely matched to the amount called for. It is a bit of a challenge, particularly with a large kit like Victory.
  3. Gregory
    Have you checked out LightBurn! They have an unrestricted 30 day trial. One of the powerful tools is a bitmap trace that I found a lot easier and more powerful than Inkscape. Greatest of all is you can have many layers. Each with it's own power and speed setting. You can control the order the layers will cut or engrave, or you can choose a layer to not cut at all. When I first started using it, it was like I had a new, more powerful laser.
  4. Gregory
    Update: I originally tried one of the Atomstack brand 10w machines looking to save quite a bit. but really wasn't happy with the build quality or the performance. However, if you want to stay in a lower price range it shood be adequate. I was able to return it and I bought the Xtool 10w machine, which I upgraded to 20w and have been using for over a year now. The working area is 432 X 406mm but I believe there are bed extensions available. modeller_masa may be able to tell you more about a larger work area. Getting a 40w machine will put you in the $2,000 range, but if that is in your budget, I can only recommend the Xtool brand because I haven't had any experience with other brands. I also recommend you get a Honeycomb worktable and the air-assist feature. Some type of exhaust system is also a must have regardless of the laser power. I also highly recommend Lightburn software to drive the laser. It provides a very powerful and versatile interface. If I can answer any more questions, I will do my best.
  5. Gregory
    I'll get back to you later. Just saw this and will get back to you with particulars. I know it is Xtool brand. I really like Xtool compared to some of the cheaper brands..
  6. Gregory
    I would enjoy seeing something relatively simple like a Longboat. The steps learned could be easily applied to a more elaborate design.
  7. Gregory
    Should be able to find them here:
  8. Gregory
    Yes.. I was trying to be funny..
  9. Gregory
    Do you have the plans? Mamoli kits do not have a separate instruction book. All the instructions are written on the plans.
  10. Gregory
    Just thinking out loud, I would think steps on the port side would make sense..😁
  11. Gregory
    Of course not. They wouldn't have been on the actual ship.😁 Very nice work!
  12. Gregory
    I really like the way you removed the foc'sl deck framing. Makes a lot of sense. I will be using that idea..
  13. Gregory
    Just curious why you think so?
  14. Gregory
    Agree particularly with number 2. The Minwax & Varathane stains I am familiar have a consistency similar to mineral spirits. Unlike paint, there is no obvious build up on the surface of the wood. How would a layer of anything, measured in microns, appear out of scale?
  15. Gregory
    Yes, but I'm not sure it's necessary depending on how you go about fabricating. I didn't document my method very well, but I could come up with something if you are interested. I will eventually be doing it with my rattlesnake, but can't say how far in the future that might be.
  16. Gregory
    You might consider card. It really lends itself to simple shapes like this. I used black card, but it takes paint very well so the color of the stock is not that important.
  17. Gregory
    I would use sanding dust and satin varnish. White PVA and sanding dust would be a 2nd choice.
  18. Gregory
    An anomaly that has arisen after 260 years?
  19. Gregory
    Pintle and gudgeon.
  20. Gregory
    You might already have this Bruce, but just in case.. Of course, it will not be a substitute for the actual scantlings.
  21. Gregory
    Hard to call it a rip off when the seller refunded and is shipping another kit.. Appears to be an honest mistake that was quickly corrected.
  22. Gregory
    Here is a contemporary model of a 20 gun ship of 1730. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66398 Another from 1715.. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66367 There seems to be enough variation to not rule out quarter galleries.
  23. Gregory
    A lot of room to come out ahead of the original painting.
  24. Gregory
    Indeed. I think it's really trivial, and a matter of what suits the builder. I'm thinking I will build with no overhang inboard on the quarterdeck, While allowing some on the gun deck.
  25. Gregory
    A little late to the party, but doesn't this indicate there is a little overhang outboard but not inboard? I still would not consider this the final word since this part of the plans is conjecture and not shown in the NMM drawings.

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