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Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I would make a template from the plans then use it to make a brace with some scrap.
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I have heard of gardenia, and we probably have some locally ( north Georgia ). I'll have to keep an eye out. It will be interesting to see how it looks and what you use it for. I think lot of slow growing ornamental shrubs/trees would be suitable for model making. They usually have a very tight straight grain. Pieces thicker than 2" are probably hard to come by, so your milling options would be limited.- 1 reply
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For modeling purposes, it might be easier to rig the shrouds before placing the tops.
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Here are some 1 x 30 belts at Amazon. You might consider making your own out of these. 1 x 30 inch Sanding Belt Pack
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Starting from the top, I would guess: Oak Walnut Mahogany
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I was responding to your post that mentioned builds, i.e. kits. I replied: The rest of my post suggested your response was indeed helpful. I apologize if I didn't make that clear.
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Most of the builds are bound to kit materials. Deviating from that requires research such as yours and sourcing and preparing other materials.
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I’m not in a good position to post links right now, but you might look at some logs for the Medway long boat, and the ModelExpo 18th Century long .
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This is the cupola of my Resolution. It is copper leaf. Put it in a sandwich bag with boiled egg over night. (As you said, just the yolks would have worked.) Actually ended up a little darker than I would have liked, so a shorter time than overnight would have resulted in a good effect. It is easy to buff out if it gets too dark. I can't imagine why anyone would go to the trouble of using some kind of brush-on chemical aging process.
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I would like to se a picture of the bend referred to. I'm trying to imagine a "sharp" bend at the bow of Lady Nelson.
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Rules are for when someone messes up and gets caught, you can read the rules at their trial.
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The only item in index regarding hammocks is about storage at night.
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Any good wood-working glue should qualify as " Best " . Planking method is just as important as the glue you use. If the plank is shaped properly you can get by with relatively short clamping times. Titebond original sets up in about 30 minutes, but still recommends overnight to cure. The different versions of Titebond have different purposes, but they all glue wood together very well. Titebond The most trouble you will have is when you have a straight plank that you have forced on a curved surface. It will have to be clamped for hours. If you look at these planking videos, you will see how to shape the planks so you do not have to force the planks onto the model. Chuck Passaro's planking Videos - In the videos, Chuck is using CA. "Best" is relative to experience and personal preference. I prefer CA ( super glue ) in most situations, just to avoid clamping and having to wait so much to proceed with work. Working effectively with CA takes some practice to get use to working with. For planking you need to use a medium or thick formula, not the thin stuff. Here are some more planking technique resources. Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™
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According to Lees it should pass to the right (starboard).
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You can post a video in a build log. Why would a video in the Gallery be more informative than a few well chosen pictures. I personally don't care for a video, even in a build log. You have to watch the whole thing to find an interesting view, then you have to pause and/or rewind to get a good look at what you are interested in.
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
Gregory replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the same problem (OCD), so my solution is to use polyester thread/line and I use a small pointed soldering iron to make the nibs disappear. -
Hello with first question on my first build
Gregory replied to Ratdude's topic in New member Introductions
What is your first build going to be? -
If you haven’t finished shopping yet, make sure you look towards the bottom of the “specialty block “ listings, and check out the boxwood build yourself deadeyes. There’s nothing else out there to compare.
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Not as easily obtainable . There may be some on HIS Model. You can look on eBay, but the source will be China from questionable vendors who also deal in pirated kits. Syren also has the best prices.
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Once you get them laced up, I don’t think it’s that noticeable. It’s really a matter of what makes you happy. Those outside the modeling community would never notice unless you pointed it out. Most kits lack a lot of accurate detail. If you make the deadeyes perfect, what about all the other detail?
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Having bought a lot of kits over the years, I don’t recall the deadeyes ever being consistent, except for the metal ones from BlueJacket. This was true of blocks also. 3D Printing has really changed the game.
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What are you calling "backwards"? Facing the ladder or back to the ladder?
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I’ve seen them on contemporary models without hand rails. I assume they held on to the sides or the back of the rungs as needed. These are men who had no problem scrambling around in the rigging on a rolling ship.
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Good catch.. I didn't realize he sold those.
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Joe ( Modelers SawMill ) will not have those dimensions at the WEB site, but send him an email with your needs, and chances are he will do a custom job for you.
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