Gregory

Well, Tom says he wants to build according to the book, so I suspect Sophie will have a wheel..😀

Definitely Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Monfeld.. Considering they are free, any number of the instruction books available at ModelExpo would be my 2nd choice.. Particularly the one's by Chuck Passaro.. They are like tutorials that would apply to any number of ships besides the kit they are written for. A good example is the US Brig Syren Look down the page for the 20 part instructions. You will find similar if not as detailed, instructions for all Model Shipways kits.. They are not just instructions for the kit in question, they provide a lot of basic kit building and rigging information.

Very nice look of the rudder! You may have it finished by the time you read this, but have you considered faking the Pintles and Gudgeons? The method is to pin the rudder to the stern post, then use card or tape to simulate the straps.. One of my pins is not as well hidden as it should be.. Do you see it?

202mm x 64mm = 12,928 = 508.97638 inches = 42.4 feet, which sounds realistic for a beam of 30 feet..

What was the reason given for his dissatisfaction?

For future reference, if you know the measurements for the full size ship, you can divide that by the same dimension of the model and get an approximation.. Or Divide the full size dimension by the scale and see what you get. A length I see for Victory is 186 feet on the gun deck.. Divide by 98 and you get 1.897 feet or about 22.7 inches. So if your victory model is close to 23 inches on the gun deck, I would consider it close to 1:98.. Close enough that it is unlikely to be another common scale, such as 1:72 or

The idea is to apply a heat source to the wet plank. Water is a better transferrer of heat than air. Not knowing how your steamer works, a small iron is probably better.. I believe a couple of our members use this or something similar .Steamfast SF-717 Mini Steam Iron

Take a look here:

Are you referring to: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/77-medway-long-boat-1742-public-group-project/ Your question appears to refer to more than one model..

2mm Sounds a bit thick for the amount of bend in that area. You might try thinning it down to at most 1.5 mm. Try soaking the strip before bending it in place, then let it dry before gluing.. Also note that it may tend to split more depending on the direction of the bend. Start your bend, and if it looks like it wants to split, try bending in the other direction.

Has anyone referred you to Petersson's Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft? One has to keep in mind that the author simply documented what he observed on a contemporary model. While the information appears to be accurate in many respects, some problems have been pointed out, here and there. Here are his diagrams of the the throat and peak halyard rigging for " .. a typical American schooner." Along with all the other information you have been provided, this should be of some help..

Yes, they are Bob Smith..

FWIW, whenever I get an upload error, I change the format of the picture, say from .JPG to .PNG and it usually works..

I don't think the quoin would have been used to raise and lower the gun, rather it was moved into position after the fact.. I would go with what looks good..

Mamoli, like most European ( besides UK ) did and still does leave a lot to be desired in the 'instruction' department. The new kits are no improvement in that regard. The Mamoli kits never included an instruction book. They had several large, very nicely drawn plan sheets , with multilanguage 'instructions' printed on the sheets. Little more than a drawing of what the pieces of wood should look like when you got through with it. The builder should have other references and a little experience with basic POB wood kit building, before starting a Mamoli kit. MSW will be a lot of help in that regard. I have always liked Mamoli kits, in that I lean toward an art piece, with lots of bare wood, rather than a historic ship model. However, I have seen some very nice builds of the Mamoli Victory, Royal Louis and Friesland among others. Contrary to the advice I give you, my first wood kit was the Mamoli Rattlesnake over 25 years ago. No internet, but a lot of help from Seaways Ships in Scale Magazine, mostly with regard to what books to buy.. Not quite finished in this picture, but not bad for a first kit. I framed the main plan, and it hangs in my workshop.. I also have a Mamoli Gretel and Mary in the Gallery. Now a little more about the new Dusek release of the Mamoli kits. I started a build log of the new Dusek Gretel: I noted some of the enhancements Dusek has made. Most notably, addition of some PE fittings, and laser cut frame and bulkheads.. Dusek has added separate laser cut stem, keel and stern post, whereas Mamoli used to have you create those parts by applying veneer to the one piece backbone. I hope to find time to work more on that little boat. It is a lot of fun. If there is one thing I found I don't like about the new Dusek release, are the plans. They have taken the large, heavy stock, plans and copied them to several smaller sheets (outlined in red ).. Just not as nice as the big sheets. There is one large ' full size ' but it is not to scale, which was a useful feature on the old plans.. All in all, if you like the subject matter, and are prepared to figure a lot out on your own, I think Mamoli kits can be worth while..

You did a great job with what the kit provided.. What is the actual size of those plates?

I see coppering as a personal preference as to how you want the model to appear.. How many people outside of our community are going to look at a coppered model and say " Oh, those copper plates are too thick and out of scale.. " ?

I wasn't suggesting the overlap was not used, in fact, it would seem to be essential, similar to the principals in laying shingles.. I was just questioning the usefulness/ appearance or lack thereof, when modeling..

How relevant is the thickness if you don't overlap? The overlap is not apparent in the images of the Cutty Sark and Constitution presented earlier.. Plus, there are various thicknesses available. I saw one that was .025mm. It doesn't appear to be listed in the specs, but if you ask, you will get a good answer from the seller/manufacturer..

Copper foil tape is available in 1/4 - 1.5 inch diameters. Those who are so inclined, can adjust the size..

Historic Ship Model by Mondfeld has a lot of general information .. Can be a good place to start. Here is an example .. Topmasts and topgallants were for the most part made from single timbers and not built up like lower masts..

You might find this to be of some help:

No money in it..

What about this.. A variation of your original idea.. Just a wood template that fits snugly in the port with a pointed awl that rests in a groove to mark your strip.. Of course you will be fine tuning the template to position the barrels where you want them..

Constitution?