Gregory
-
Posts
3,079 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Gregory
-
The risk with plywood, is that prolonged soaking can de-laminate it. You might try letting it soak for a few minutes then clamping it between some nice flat pieces ( without the plastic ) and put it in a warm oven - 250 for a few hours. After removing from oven, let cool completely before removing clamps. Other options: Cut new pieces. Contact Amati for replacement pieces. -
Excuse me if I am being presumptuous about what may be doable with this kit, particularly after the fact, but would it have been possible to cut those pieces in one or more places and removed a little material?
-
Why masts are square at the top?
Gregory replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Here is a link where you can click through some of the high res images: Built up Yards & Masts -
Why masts are square at the top?
Gregory replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Just to show that things were even more complicated, and to emphasize what Dr PR said about finding suitable timber for a tall round mast, large main masts would have been laminated like this, from Mondfeld:
-
That was my thought.. Just didn't elaborate..
-
If the masking tape sounds like too much work, you can use a tape measure flat on the hull and measure the distance at the waterline between stem and stern, then measure the distance from waterline to keel amidships, you would have a nice rectangular area that would include some extra room for waste factor.
-
Cover 1/2 the hull with a layer of masking tape. Draw the water/copper line. Trace the stem, stern and keel.. Peel it off. Lay it out flat and measure.. Multiply by 2 and add some wiggle room..
-
Kieth may have more to say, but it depends on the rope in question. Lines like lifts, used to hoist the yards would have more slack when the yards were hoisted. Braces would have more or less slack deepening on the tack at the time & etc.. Rather than striving for modeling actual practice in this regard (who's checking ) just go for some nice looking coils that represents several feet of rope.. Here is one of my favorite examples.. From Glenn Barlow's Cheerful.. He provides some technique in his log.
-
There are a couple of good build logs talking about the window frames, here-- And here-- Might prove to be of some help.. I have the plans for the AVS, and it is on my list for a possible scratch project someday..
-
Have you considered Vanguard's ship's boats? Various sizes and I believe 1:64. Not double planked but others have had success with them. You might try one to see how it goes.
-
Good to hear MS has brought that kit back; I didn't realize they did.. I'm tempted myself. Looking at the instruction, it appears to be a pretty good kit, that offers the opportunity for personal embellishment if you want improve on the fittings. Can't beat the ModelExpo guarantee for replacing parts for whatever reason.. I think it would be hard to find a better kit.
- 1 reply
-
- 2
-
-
Anyone else use a mini heat gun? Mini Heat Gun - 300 Watt I got tired of waiting on the glue to dry on my rigging knots, siezings & etc. So I thought I would try this out.. Not too long, and not too close on the low setting, and my thinned white glue dries in seconds..
- 1 reply
-
- 5
-
-
Are you referring to this in your drawing as bindings. Those are not typical for any bowsprit I have ever seen.. There are bindings on the masts, but you might save those for another topic. The bowsprit will have numerous other features, such as bobstays, shrouds and foot ropes. Here is a log with some bowsprit details. If your kit does not have the rigging details you would like to include in your build, you would do well to find a good reference on the rigging of a 74.. You may have to combine several sources. The basics would have been the same for any number of ships over many years.. The Petersson book is pretty good, but it is just the documentation of a model, and may be lacking in any number of areas. A good source, but somewhat pricey, might be The 74-Gun Ship Bellona (Anatomy of the Ship) ..
-
Here is the gammoning from Mondfeld: There is a lot of rigging on the bowsprit, so you may have to find some other references. I will try to dig up some more
-
You might try just putting the tiniest bit of blackening solution on the end of the wire. I would use the end of a toothpick, dampened but no drop formed. There shouldn't be enough to migrate into the surrounding wood.
-
Great start!
-
Here are a couple of patterns from How To Do Deck Planking On Wooden Model Ships A pretty good guide. There are other options for a tree nail pattern. Keep in mind that visible tree nails at this scale are a modeling convention rather than something that would be visible at scale. Use a look that you find acceptable based on other models you have looked at..
-
That looks really close.. Margin planks and waterway should provide zero clearance in the end..
-
Mondfeld says: He agrees that two compasses would have been more common.
-
Very nice. If you have any thoughts about embellishing it further, here are some ideas from Mondfeld.
-
Paper is just a very thin layer of wood..😁
-
Something you might consider in the future, and it might not be too late now, I do my deck planking on thin paper off the ship.. If the margin planks don't fit perfectly along the bulwarks, small gaps ca be covered with the waterway..
- 100 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Harold Hahn method
Gregory replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Here is a search for models with key words " Navy Board " Most of them are pre 1700. Centurion 1732 shows up.. -
This might have some useful information: Spanish Galleon 1530–1690 Reasonably priced.. It is doubtful step by step instructions exist. These plans of Golden Hind might be useful.. Golden Hind Plans Here are some plans at a Czech site .. Rigging for Golden Hind
Our Emblem ®
