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Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I'm just wondering if a uniform finish, inside or out, would provide a more uniform response to the elements, regardless of the severity of the environment.. -
You don't think there is any need to minimize the effects of temperature and humidity?
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The galley stack that far aft seems a bit anachronistic to me, but I can't say for sure if it is wrong..
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Looks like some nice progress in spite of lack of proper direction.. Every build is a learning experience..
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Like Kieth says your best help will be other build logs. Similar rigs ( schooners ) will be of help. Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft - by Lenarth Petersson should be some help.. Here is a topic by Dr PR that will be a lot of help A lot gets lost in translation with many European ( not UK ) kits. The 'ring with leg' is an eyebolt.. A big problem with Corel is they will create a kit based on lines from a public domain source then proceed to make everything else up.. It may include some accurate information, but it can be hard to sort out. ( My Resolution build is a good example) With a good rigging guide as mentioned above, you can ignore the kit rigging plans..
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Glue suggestion for connection
Gregory replied to Koopyetz's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Not from me.. May be too late this time, but next time you should consider providing a rabbet ( groove ) at the stem for your planking to sit into.
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Been a while since an update, but I have been slowly going forward with rigging.. A lot of hooks blocks and tackles. Not really tying anything off at this point. Yards are made, but not ready for prime time yet.
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Spamming the forum with what amounts to click-bait is against forum rules. That is all the member in question is doing so far with their activity here. They were/are not participating in any discussion about model building, or offering the opportunity to discuss the merits of their information.
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What year was Lowestoft? Lavery says up to 1750 only on spanshackle was fitted near the centerline. That model appears to follow that convention..
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Your video shows what might be called " bulls eyes " .. A sort of wood thimble. They may have served the same purpose as deadeyes in certain situations.. If we are going to help fellow modelers, it s important to provide correct information..
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PS When I said 250 oven, that would be Fahrenheit..
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Haven't explored this with CNC, but with my laser , I have a set home position (effectively '0' ), then I am able to just position my drawing in the software workspace so it aligns with laser '0' .. Do you not have a similar option with your software?
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The risk with plywood, is that prolonged soaking can de-laminate it. You might try letting it soak for a few minutes then clamping it between some nice flat pieces ( without the plastic ) and put it in a warm oven - 250 for a few hours. After removing from oven, let cool completely before removing clamps. Other options: Cut new pieces. Contact Amati for replacement pieces.
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Excuse me if I am being presumptuous about what may be doable with this kit, particularly after the fact, but would it have been possible to cut those pieces in one or more places and removed a little material?
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Why masts are square at the top?
Gregory replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Here is a link where you can click through some of the high res images: Built up Yards & Masts -
Why masts are square at the top?
Gregory replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Just to show that things were even more complicated, and to emphasize what Dr PR said about finding suitable timber for a tall round mast, large main masts would have been laminated like this, from Mondfeld:
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That was my thought.. Just didn't elaborate..
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If the masking tape sounds like too much work, you can use a tape measure flat on the hull and measure the distance at the waterline between stem and stern, then measure the distance from waterline to keel amidships, you would have a nice rectangular area that would include some extra room for waste factor.
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Cover 1/2 the hull with a layer of masking tape. Draw the water/copper line. Trace the stem, stern and keel.. Peel it off. Lay it out flat and measure.. Multiply by 2 and add some wiggle room..
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Kieth may have more to say, but it depends on the rope in question. Lines like lifts, used to hoist the yards would have more slack when the yards were hoisted. Braces would have more or less slack deepening on the tack at the time & etc.. Rather than striving for modeling actual practice in this regard (who's checking ) just go for some nice looking coils that represents several feet of rope.. Here is one of my favorite examples.. From Glenn Barlow's Cheerful.. He provides some technique in his log.
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There are a couple of good build logs talking about the window frames, here-- And here-- Might prove to be of some help.. I have the plans for the AVS, and it is on my list for a possible scratch project someday..
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Have you considered Vanguard's ship's boats? Various sizes and I believe 1:64. Not double planked but others have had success with them. You might try one to see how it goes.
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Good to hear MS has brought that kit back; I didn't realize they did.. I'm tempted myself. Looking at the instruction, it appears to be a pretty good kit, that offers the opportunity for personal embellishment if you want improve on the fittings. Can't beat the ModelExpo guarantee for replacing parts for whatever reason.. I think it would be hard to find a better kit.
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