Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Roughen the surface to be glued and re-apply CA If it is a very small area, use a very small bur with a rotary tool.. The glue needs to penetrate the area. I would use medium CA. -
On the models where the planks appear to fit flush there is a sort of groove called the rabbet, and the edges of the planks are inserted into this groove. At the stern , there is a recessed area called the bearding line, where the framing is recessed to be less than the thickness of the sternpost and keel so that the planks are flush with the sternpost and keel. Most kits don't provide this detail, and you have to add it as you go along. At this point it would be difficult to add to your model. In the future you will need to access some of the planking guides here at MSW.. Here is a simplified illustration of the bearding line and rabbet..
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If it comes loose it is because there wasn't a strong bond to begin with. A good bond with CA depends on both surfaces being rough or porous. If either surface has paint or varnish that is smooth, it will not bond well, except to the paint or varnish, and will separate easily taking the paint or varnish off with it. 1. A good CA bond should last many 10's of years if not indefinitely. It forms a layer that is essentially plastic between the two surfaces. 2. You could have used epoxy, it tends to adhere to non-porous surfaces better than CA. However, if used on finished surfaces, it can break apart, taking the finish with it. The pieces may have been fastened with hidden nails or pegs.
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HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48
Gregory replied to AdamA's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I hope you will excuse me to ask a question, but are the drawings for your stem pieces from the Hahn drawings? I am curious as to piece number one and the gammoning slot. It seems that the long horizontal joint would have been a weak point considering the forces present from the gammoning. I have seen a similar configuration on another Hahn design for Rattlesnake.. I am certainly no expert, but other plans I have seen would have the gammoning slot in a piece that extended deeper vertically into the stem. Perhaps someone with more knowledge than me could shed more light on this. -
Choosing the best kit. The Mantua Panart or the Caldercraft.
Gregory replied to Roy Harran's topic in Wood ship model kits
There is a reason it's so expensive.. The cheaper kits require you to be more innovative.. Consider your own skill set.. You might wait for the new 1:64 Amati Probably more than Caldercraft, but then, maybe Caldercraft will go down.. -
An amazing development turnaround considering the quality and detail.. You should have a corner on this market, for awhile, anyway..
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Note: Keep in mind that Monfeld shows one side without sails, in which case, the yards are lower on the masts.. Here is a nice model at NMM showing the topsails lowered. Speedwell Another note, is that topgalant sails were often " set flying ". The yards were not present when no sails were rigged. They were rigged on the deck, and hoisted ( set flying ) when required... For modeling purposes, I think the yards without sails are often shown in a raised position, with the topgallant yards as well.
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Here is an example from Mondfeld: You can rig your Bounty with these drawings and feel you are doing it right.. If you are not going to include sails, you might consider leaving some lines off, such as clews, leech and bow lines.. Again it is up to you.
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Does Amati name the ropes, i.e., main topsail lift ? If they don't, using any good book that does, is way ahead of them.. For instance, Peterson will show you the main topsail lift and exactly how to run it and what the blocks and siezings should look like. It would serve the same purpose whether it is the Bounty or the Victory. If Amati is showing something different, I wouldn't waste time trying to follow their instructions. other than a rough starting point. Of course, you must proceed with what you are comfortable with, and I am sure you are learning a lot as you go along..
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One more book to think about later; Rigging Period Ship Models: This book has received some criticism because of perceived errors, but it is based on what the author observed on a contemporary model, and the model may have had an error or two. It is a great resource that shows how every line ran on a ship including the belaying point. Even though it would not be a point for point match for Bounty, one could easily extrapolate for a reasonably accurate match.. Here is an example of the drawings in the book: The author draws every rope on the model one at a time, showing exactly how it runs, with blocks, hooks and everything.
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The AOTS book is good to have, but the rigging diagrams are relatively small and not easy to sort out.. If i were going to recommend a book that covers rigging in the spirit that Roger speaks of it would be this: Historic Ship Models by Mondfeld. He goes into detail about each line and how it is used.. This would have always been the same across various ships, as Roger pointed out.
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
This is your log.. Post whatever you like! 🙂 -
Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Looking really good! Here are some pictures from the Mary plans, showing how the bowsprit is set up.. The end is stepped under the fife rail in front of the windless.. Might give you some ideas for setting yours up..
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Dying/coloring rope; sources for purchase of quality rope
Gregory replied to Tomculb's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The problem with dyeing/coloring, synthetics don't take color very well, and naturals; cotton, linen, etc. may not hold up well over time, with coloring. If coffee didn't work, it sounds like you are dealing with synthetic. One of our sponsors, CraftySailor has some that looks good in the pictures.. Not sure how competitive they are, But I have had real good experience buying other products from them.. And don't forget: Making your own rope
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Just another possibility for consideration. The Confederacy comes without rigging plans and is presented with this image. I think the bowsprit without the stub masts might look a little incongruous.. But, that is my personal opinion, and has no bearing on what is considered proper.. Consider the painting of Enterprize: No bowsprit, no masts.
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Found this Googling.. Bell Forest P.S. It's hard to Google " Holly Wood ".. Guess why? 😁 Try " Holly lumber "
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New spar-tapering tool from Bridge City Tools!
Gregory replied to Bob Cleek's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I was interested at $98, but $16 shipping seems unreasonable.. I might have pulled the trigger for $10. -
Pictures in wrong order
Gregory replied to Tomasz B's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I don't know if this will help anyone, I have got in the habit of just opening a folder nearby where my pictures reside and just dragging and dropping my images to the current cursor position, rather than choosing and uploading pictures. Here is a little video that shows how I created the post that follows. Posting images.mp4 Then I drag another after moving my cursor to a new line... And another.. Now I continue typing my text and pictures are where I want them to be.. I can also go to the " Uploaded images " area and click on the trash can if I want to delete an image.. If I put an image in the wrong place, or want a different image, I just delete it with the trash can. Put my cursor where I want the new image, and drag the image to the cursor position.
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Don't forget Alaskan Yellow Cedar.. I was really impressed with how the grain showed up on Glenn Barlow's Cheerful. It reminds me of curly maple. Of course the effect would depend on the way the wood is sawn. Then not everyone wants to see dramatic grain patterns because they feel it is out of scale.
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I got side tracked last night, but later today I will show you the plans from Mary as to how the bowsprit is stepped. I think you will find it doable as well.. -
Nice concept.. I think the gammoning might still be an option that would fit in, but it would be up to you..
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I hate to be discouraging, but laser cutting is not generally considered 3D. You could get some 3D effects with a combination of engraving and cutting but it is a very complex process that would take multiple steps to produce useable parts. 3D renderings would have to come from 3D printers, CNC machines or a combination of these along with some possible laser cutting. If 3D drawings/ files of Titanic exist they would be in-house at some model manufacturing company. I do not expect you to find such drawings available to the general public. However, if anyone here is aware of such drawings/files, I'm sure they will let you know about what would be possible in acquiring them.
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Just a thought.. Those rails will really get in the way when you start doing some rigging; particularly the bowsprit gammoning.. You might think about getting all your parts ready and mounting them permanently at a later time..
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I'm sure Chuck may have other sources, but I have received very good wood and service from Ocooch.. They show a lot of thicknesses, but Chuck says if you don't see what you want they will help with custom orders. I have always found their email response to be very prompt.. They have accommodated me when I requested lighter or darker sheets. Color can vary quite a bit, but when I have placed an order for several sheets, they matched up pretty good within the order.
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Henry, here is a snip from a model that is very similar to Mary, but way superior.. You can see here how the builder chose to secure the bowsprit.. Here is a link to more pictures of this model. Be prepared to be blown away. I have often used it as a reference to try to improve my skills. Ship model yacht Max Emanuel Here is the story about the model: Historical background of the yacht Max Emanuel
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