Gregory
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Vanda-Lay treenail maker
Gregory replied to JerryC's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have had success with bass, cherry and whatever toothpicks are made of. I have also used boxwood and pear, but I'm not talking about thousands of pieces. When I said soft, I was thinking in terms of softer, as opposed to stuff like ebony or mahogany.. -
Vanda-Lay treenail maker
Gregory replied to JerryC's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
How do you file the teeth inside a hole that is 1mm or smaller? The corners on the collets I showed are plenty sharp for turning soft wood. -
It looks like they were exposed to sunlight, near a window that created a sharp demarcation.. What is the kit, and where didi it come from.. Chances are you could get the supplier or manufacturer to replace them for you.
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Vanda-Lay treenail maker
Gregory replied to JerryC's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I don't do much treenailing, but a method I use for making small round parts might do the trick. I have this set of brass collets for dremel that I use for rounding off small parts like the axels on my cannon. Should be just as fast as any other method if you are making them one at a time..
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If you have McKay's book, the drawings for the 23 ft launch would be an excellent basis for plans. You can find several plans for long boats at Wiki Commons Here is a 21 foot boat that you could scale accordingly. There are many plans at this location and they all would be pretty accurate..
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It's really hard to see what is going on from your pictures. Are you saying the planks are laying flat on the transom, but there is a gap between the plank/s and one or more bulkheads? A wider shot, with maybe a pencil pointing at the problem would give a better idea..
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The only thing you could do besides doing it over, would be to add some shim material to the bulkheads..
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Agreed that the poster may find themselves subject to an onslaught of spam.. However, Googling Polybak, produces a list of suppliers.. Chucks recommendation of finding a cabinet/furniture maker as a source of scrap, seems to be a good option..
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My comment was mainly because the OP specified USA.. I'm not sure about smaller orders, but I've saved a lot of money at Cornwall on European kits, due the substantial difference in price of the kit. Often 30% or more in the US..
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I see Kieth trumped me..😀 In the USA< I would check ModelExpo Cornwall Model Boats in the UK has a greater selection, and you might find the shipping rates to be surprisingly reasonable.
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Why do they show two different size on the plans? Here is a shot of the actual ship: You could probably get a good idea for dimensions by looking at the port and the height of the bulwarks..
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I doubt there are any pictures available. This was a pretty unique situation for a ship but making sense considering the Bounty's mission. I assume it was similar to copper sheathing but without the nails. Some kind of tiles that were hammered out thin and overlapped at the seams.. Lead was cast in thin sheets and used for water proofing in a lot of situations back then. I doubt that the appearance would be smooth at full scale, but at modeling scales, a lead colored paint would be a good representation.
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If we are talking about McKay's Anatomy of The Ship book, actually on page 9 under the heading of Refit, it says:
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Wipe On Poly Techniques
Gregory replied to Freebird's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Takes me a while to use up a can also. I usually thin the " Wipe on Poly " even further, at least for the first coat or two.. -
Blocks and rigging size for Olympia 1:232
Gregory replied to The_Full_Broadside's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I seem to remember that there was someone who posted here with their excellent very tiny models, but didn't really share any technique that I recall. Does anyone remember who that might have been? -
Blocks and rigging size for Olympia 1:232
Gregory replied to The_Full_Broadside's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I don't believe you will find anything for sale at that scale. There are miniature model makers working at those smaller scales, and there are some books out there about making such things. They pretty much use tiny bits of whatever, and fine wire.. I will be trying to find some books for you, but meanwhile someone else may jump in with suggestions. I know this has been discussed before, but I'm at a loss as to how to search for those topics. There are a couple of books by Lloyd McCaffery, but they can be kind of pricey.. -
Here is a nice story without having to click through the slide show. USS Nevada
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This is the transom design I had been working on, but the longer I worked on it the more I felt like it wasn't in keeping with the boat as a whole. I decided I wanted something a little more simple. So I settled on this. I hung the rudder. Made a bowsprit so that I could set the gammoning before installing the head rails.. Masting and rigging shouldn't be too far in the future.. I'm mostly working on the guns, and fiddling with some other details. Should have an update on them soon. Thanks for looking in..
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Been a while since my last update, but I have made a little progress. One of my side projects has been to work on a display base and pedestals. This picture is one of several veneered pieces I bought on eBay a while back. I used one of these for my Mary, which I think looks OK. However, I wanted to make something a little more unique for Resolution, as well as practice my veneering skills ( or lack thereof.. ) I decided to try my hand at a bit of inlay work. I glued strips of light and dark wood on top of veneer sheets. Here is one of my little tool tips.. I use a plastic knife as a glue spreader.. Doesn't show that well in the picture, but it does a good job of making a thin layer of glue in little rows, that quickly even out.. Here is my wood sandwich, from which I cut thin strips with my table saw. I used a piece of burl veneer from my stash, and this is what I ended up with. I will update shortly with a little progress on the boat itself.
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An Amazon search brings up many: USS Constitution Other members can suggest their favorites.
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I appreciate that, but my modeling goal is more of an art piece rather than an accurate looking miniature ship.. Of course, art is in the eye of the beholder.. I can't see that grain from 10 feet away, and my wife never mentioned how out of scale it looks..😉 Rather than trying to advance my questionable modeling techniques, I was just responding to Carlos, who revived a four year old discussion..
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I used mahogany veneer on my Mary.. I'm using walnut on my Resolution. This walnut is paper-backed. Still very thin, but the paper keeps splitting to " 0 " .. Great for spilling..
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First, click on one of the era headings: Then, click on " Start New Topic Make sure you choose the correct era for the model you are building..
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Or a napping Chuck with a nice pillow under his head... Or maybe this.. 😁
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You do not want them to be tight enough for that to happen. In fact, you would want your lanyards to be rigged before you seize up the shrouds, and use the lanyards for final tensioning. There is a lot of backward and forward adjustment to be done, while not letting your deadeye spacing get out of whack.. In the end, the shrouds would still have a very, very small amount of play in them..
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