AJohnson

Great looking deck Trond! 👍

Hi all, a quick update.  Regarding the anchor cables, I decided to follow the Artesania Latina 1/48 kit builds and I made two openings in the deck between the main hatch and fore companion way with deck reinforcing collars.  Not sure if that is right given the multitude of ways I have seen the anchor cables dealt with on the Bounty builds on MSW, but at least if it is wrong, then it is partially "hidden" by the two boats that I have now completed and added. Thanks to @Tim Moore & @hornet for advice on tying them to the deck.

Next on the list, I am working on the air scuttles and quarter galleries adding details to the kit not provided by CC, with reference to McKay's "Anatomy of the Ship" book, will add updates shortly.

Thats all for now, thanks for looking in! 👋

Not much progress this last few days; work getting in the way 🤨 

However this has given me some time to pause and think about the next steps before I charge on like the proverbial "Bull in a China Shop". 

Anchor cable, just where does that go!?! 🤔  The instructions from CC (see picture) suggest coiling it up just aft of the winch barrels, but that can't be right, AOTS by McKay states Bounty's cables were 100 fathoms long / 600ft /180ish metres, no way that is going on deck easily! Why would CC suggest something not possible?

I have seen on other builds a few variations on where the cable enters the hull for stowage:-  in the main hatch, with variation of at the leading or trailing ends, or down some holes in between the main hatch and forward hatch, or the forward hatch even....

I'm guessing this is one of those "unknowns" that was not recorded, just wondered if the good and knowledgeable folk on MSW had any suggestion on the most likely?  Think I need to resolve this before tying on the ships boats though.

Thanks,

On 5/4/2021 at 5:35 PM, Trond said:

Is there a problem of doing more than one edge or just extra work?

Hi Trond, it depends on how prominent you want the dark line between the planks to simulate caulking.  If you edge both planks butting up to each other you will get a more noticeable line.  Maybe experiment on a few short sections with combinations of no edges marked / one edge / two edges.  Also worth doing on scrap bits in case you use a marker that "bleeds" into the wood a little and causes a "fuzzy" look to the plank edges.  I know I came across that effect on some of my planking even though the wood strip all came from the same batch in the kit!

Good luck, let us know what you decide on... 👍

56 minutes ago, Morgan said:

Where I live in Hartlepool we have the National Museum of the Royal Navy North, home to Europe’s oldest floating warship HMS Trincomalee, Unicorn’s older sister ship, with the NMRN looking to increase its presence here. So it is possible to build around a single ship.
 

There is a strong local attachment to Unicorn in Dundee, and I don’t imagine they will let her go, so there is that precarious tension between income and cost for a relatively unknown ship. But things look like they are moving at last.

 

Gary

The historic quayside development around Trincomalee really sets the scene/context and adds more “interest” for visitors who are not nautical fanatics like us (long suffering Admirals spring to mind 🤣 - or unwilling kids dragged along, ask me how I know this...). I think the key to successfully historic attractions of any kind is “broad” appeal, from the enthusiast/history buffs through to tourists, families etc.  A historic ship, no matter how glorious in our eyes will struggle in isolation without it being part of a larger “attraction” or within easy reach of something else attractive.  I hope there is some kind of vision like this for HMS Unicorn can be realised, perhaps a Scottish “branch” of the same museum network Trincomalee is part of?  Let’s hope so.

A trip to Hartlepool is on my list for this year once everything up and running after COVID restrictions ease 😄

Conventions mentioned above notwithstanding, but does anyone think any preference might be influenced at all by if you are left or right handed?  It may sound daft, I only say that as I like to display my models showing their port side, but it occurs to me that may be because I’m left handed and do the same for model aircraft.  Just a random thought....

1 hour ago, Roger Pellett said:

The U.K. also has two “destination” maritime museums, featuring a mix of preserved ships and shore exhibits;  Portsmouth and Chatham.  In reading about preservation of Unicorn, I cannot help but wonder if, painful as it would be, she would be better off as a part of the collection of one of these larger organizations.

I have sympathy with that idea, but not sure local interests would allow her to be moved (the income from tourism would be hard to let go) and that move would be a very expensive operation.  But preserving historic vessels is ruinously expensive, just look at the near constant efforts even the “icons” like HMS Victory require and budgets that go with that.  Not sure what the answer is long term for less famous ships like Unicorn (well apart from loads on money!) hope Unicorn gets her new home and reinstated cover from the elements.  🤞

On 4/27/2021 at 9:03 AM, Robert Taylor said:

These are the New books on my shelf so far after looking at reviews and after a pre overview of them on Google.

 

 

I have the two Keith Julier "Period Ship" books and have found them useful, a little duplication between them, but not too much.  Not got the "Rigging Period ship models" title, is it good?

9 hours ago, Mike_H said:

Great to see you back, Ben.  Your Snake looks crisp and clean as ever.

 

Mike

It certainly does!  Very nice build 👏  I'm doing the Snake next so glad I have this log and Jason's to follow!  👍 

Bit more progress to report, finished rigging the Cannons, well I say "finished" more like left alone before make things worse!  Clearly the blocks are over scale, I used kit supplied ones, but think they should have been smaller.  I tried to do it right with hooks and stropping/seizing etc. but for such small cannons at 1/64th scale, it left very little room for the tackle ropes with all the over scale blocks/eyes/hooks.  Lesson for the future, maybe just the breeching ropes on small guns? - sometimes less might be more perhaps, or learn to be more dexterous and use 2 - 1.5mm blocks! 🤣  I was however happy with my first rope coils!  Snooped about on MSW and copied other peoples ideas to produce a jig using 1 inch plastic counters and push pins.

Next up the ships boats! ⛵

Trond, good progress there, admire that you doing your own lettering and stern decorations, all provided for me on my Caldercraft version! 👏 - you are going to be scratch building before you know it!

Great Progress Dave, i'm not too far from starting the masts and yards on my Bounty now, so will be checking in on your rigging progress!  👍

One thing that intrigues me, your lower masts are painted white, is that in the instructions?  Caldercraft make no mention of the mast colouration for my kit, I know the larger Bounty replica (the one that unfortunately sank in a storm a few years back) had white masts, just thinking about the historical likelihood before i get to that decision!

Keep up the good work! 😁

I use one of these little workstations, it has a cutting matt and tool/paints/brushes holder at the back.  Can be a little restrictive if working on the complete hull, but doing assemblies and small parts it is just fine.  Matt is 18 inches  by 12 inches.

Very good 👏, like others have said I would still be crawling around on the floor looking for the first bit that pinged into orbit!  😆

11 minutes ago, Egilman said:

OUTSTANDING...... your execution of a weathered non-specular blue paint job is very very good, one of the best I've seen yet...

 

Too bad there isn't a 1/24th Corsair to go with it.... (but I've heard rumors that trumpy is working on one)

Yes a 1/24 Corsair would be great - naturally a "clipped-wing" FAA version (for fitting in smaller RN carriers) for me, but I'm biased!  I hoped Airfix might do something as they had already got the engine tooled, but if Trumpy do one, just hope they get the basic shape right, not something they always do...

Selection of pictures of the finished model.  Some showing the Hellcat with a 1/72 scale Wildcat for comparison!

If you have room for only one 1/24 aircraft kit, I would seriously recommend Airfix's Hellcat; or perhaps the equally brutish Hawker Typhoon (I have two of those - one built and one in stock... 😁)

Collection of pictures of the build, the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp was a mini kit in it's own right, added copper wire for the ignition leads.

Tried to make the finish somewhat "dirty" to match the real aircraft, but a fine balance with scale models not to overdo that.

Collection of pictures next of the finished model.

Its taken me a while to realise "things with wings" were allowed on MSW, so here is a small selection of build shots from a recently finished project of mine of the mighty Grumman F6F-5 Hellcat in 1/24th scale! - A bit of a beast, but it actually went together fairly straightforwardly - well most plastic kits do compared to wooden model ship in my experience! 😆

The markings I chose were for a Fleet Air Arm Hellcat, JZ935 flown from HMS Indomitable by Sub-Lt T.B.Speak, as you will see from the reference photo, it came to grief on the flight deck (take a close look at the front of the engine, pilot fine...)  Family link here is that the Admiral's grandfather served in the Fleet Air Arm on HMS Indomitable at the time, so may have witnessed this or the aftermath; he worked in A/C. maintenance from what I can gather.)

First pics of the cockpit, engine to follow when I have resized them.

On 4/17/2021 at 1:58 PM, Krupi said:

I think you are right.

 

I might remove quite a bit of it so the effect is toned down 

Maybe have a look at pictures of HMS Trincomalee?  Doing a quick image search shows plenty of pictures of her with green patina effect on the waterline you might be after.  Think you are right, maybe tone it down, but an interesting way of producing a real effect on copper.  👏 well done!

All down to personal taste, but like you I don't like bright and shiny copper, others people do, which is equally valid.  

Only comment I would make is that the "scale" effect of seeing a ship from the distance required to render is 1/60th it's real size will naturally "mute" any bright/strong colours, but I think a well done and muted green band along the waterline would be a great addition and "talking point" for many copper bottomed models.... thinking about my current build now.... 🤔

Beautiful build, nice to see another CC Bounty under construction, we are at similar stages, I'm also doing the ship's boats and considering the bowsprit. I will follow your build. 👍

Really like the copper plates you have done, the kit provided ones for other builds I've done are all a bit too nice and shiny for my liking and you have gone to the trouble to darken yours, wish I had!   So good to see someone making their own - well done! 👏

Well, the cannons are in place this evening with their breeching ropes.  I soaked the threads in water so they would lay as desired and brushed over with thin matt varnish (MIG Ammo ultra matt.) so hopefully that will keep them in place on the deck.  Next up the tackle, I have stroped the blocks and added hooks, so need to rig them next.

Note to self for next build - add cannons and ropes BEFORE anything else on the deck!  What a pain trying to do this with the Binnacle/capstan etc. in the way! Doh! 🤭

Likewise there are a few carvings on my CC Bounty, I will photograph and send if you want.

Yes I’m using Birchwood Casey Brass Black, seems to work quite well if you follow the guidance and tips here on MSW. Trick is cleaning the parts and diluting the blackener and not trying to get a jet black finish in one dip. Certainly teaches you patience this hobby of ours! 😂

3 hours ago, LyleK1 said:

How are you keeping the blackening from wiping off?

To be honest some of it does, getting better at blackening metal parts, I used to assume that more blackening = darker metal but it just flakes off / goes crusty.  So I'm now more patient and use diluted blackener for less time (a minute or two) and dip the parts more often if I want a darker tone.

Still it can wipe off a bit, so a quick touch up with thin black acrylic paint is all I use when I have finished messing about with the part, but mostly it looks okay.