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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Hi Phil, Your rigging work looks extremely neatly done! It may just be the angle of the photo, but It looks like you have the aft shrouds first which would be unusual as the starboard forward-most pair was rigged first, then subsequent port forward pair, and so on moving aft. The stay was then rigged after all the shrouds were rigged. Allan
  2. Hi D Welcome to MSW!!!! I enjoyed reading your post, especially your desire to do research to get things done accurately. My concern is that this is your first model so it may not be the best choice for a number of reasons for a first time build. Do visit the MSW Articles data base for lessons on such things as proper planking of the hull and a plethora of other useful items. For the hull planking the Antscherl article is tops, but you may also benefit from the four part video on planking by a member here at MSW. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM. Enjoy your voyage here at MSW. Allan
  3. The eyes, hooked blocks and stropped blocks are marvels. Great pics, thanks for posting. Allan
  4. Goodwin is one of my favorites in general. His research has saved many of us countless hours of our own research. This layout was a new one for me so a good day of learning 😀. Before seeing this sequence I was relying on that given by Lees but I am not so sure he was including the idiosyncrasies of cutters in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War. This brings up a question, for me at least, would cutters fit within the meaning of his title or were they of their category for some things such as rigging? Allan
  5. Your work is astounding. 😀 Question, hope you don't mind. Were the forward shrouds set up like this on the cutters rather than the common sequence, ie: pair on the starboard then pair on the port, etc. with a swifter being the aftmost rigged with an eye splice if an odd number of shrouds? Allan
  6. The copper plates appear to be far more realistic than provided by many kit makers. Nice job of putting them on the hull! Allan
  7. I realize this is not seen for the most part on POB, but regarding terminology, internally there are footwales, clamps, quickwork, thick stuff, and lining but nothing called planking.😁 Allan
  8. There was an order of dressing of rigging and it made sense once I found it and used it. It varied slightly as new lines came into use such as mizen preventer stays in 1793 or as removed such as truss parrels superseding parrels on the topsail yards in 1806. Pages 158 -159 in James Lees' Masting and Rigging gives all the details. While it is nothing like your ship, the example below of the order of dressing of the lower foremast on the Victory, from a fold out page in Longridge's, Anatomy of Nelson's Ships may be of interest. Allan
  9. I think you are talking about the wales as the fenders ran vertically near midships. If that is the case, the wales were in fact reduced in thickness at the stem on the real ships down to the thickness of the surrounding planks so they could seat in the rabbet at the stem without sticking out and thus being susceptible to catching on something and being ripped off. They were not reduced at the stern, but I can see how this is a problem for you as the "walnut" is notorious for being porous and brittle and not very well suited for ship models compared to other species some other kit makers provide. Allan
  10. I get it Chuck and it was fun while it lasted, but why is there still a Non-Ship build forum that has cars and what not? It does not matter to me, but curious why one is OK the others are not. In the end MSW is 44,000 times better than any other ship modeling site!!! Allan
  11. I imagine many of the members have already seen the videos and know the story how she was sunk by the British in 1708, but for those who have not, this is an incredible find, worth billions of Euros/dollars in gold, silver, gems and relics. In looking at the video, there looks to be some interesting things regarding Spanish ships of the San Jose era. One that jumped out at me is the cannon. There is no cascabel but rather an ornate loop. Time mark 1:08, 1:46, and 2:20 show these very clearly. Allan https://www.mensjournal.com/news/colombia-holy-grail-of-shipwrecks-20-billion-treasure
  12. I like BC for brass as well. For copper I have been using diluted liver of sulfur as I can blacken it after it is in place without worry about scratching the surface during installation. Another plus is that LoS does not stain the wood and a quick rinse/wipe down with a wet paper towel is all that is needed for once it has been applied to the part. Wish it worked on brass as well. Allan
  13. My only experience with 3D printing is for cannon. I emailed drawings to a one man print shop in another part of the US and had 20 perfect barrels for $15, including freight, in a matter of days. I am curious to know what other parts would lend themselves to 3D in addition to barrels and maybe anchors where metal would have been used in reality. I cannot see myself using 3D printed resin for anything that would have been made of wood though. Allan
  14. This is very well said. There are few, if any, kits that have the correct gun pattern for a given date/nationality but to have the tooling to cast them in metal in all sizes and scales would cost a fortune. With 3D printing all one needs is a drawing that is accurate in pattern, and size. Details like the cypher are easy to include that are correct for the era and nationality. Another common error is that the lengths are often the stated length, ie: 8 foot, 9 foot, etc, rather than the correct overall length which is longer. I understand the use of plywood for some things including bulkheads, false decks and similar parts but not where the laminations can be seen such as the keel, knee of the head and similar parts. Walnut may be more tradition in kit models even though it is porous, often brittle, and generally looks awful compared to very nice tight grained species that some kit makers such as Vanguard are using. It also may be a matter of cost as well as, or instead of, tradition. Allan
  15. Welcome to our motley crew, enjoy your voyage. Allan
  16. Warm welcome to MSW, hope you enjoy the voyage!!! Allan
  17. VERY happy to see you back here on your Bellona build log. Hope all is well in KW. My better half and I are hopefully taking a drive down or maybe take the jet cat ferry from Marco Island as she has been reading that the town is decorated for the holiday very nicely. Plus, I get to meet with a client and do some research at the Mel Fisher museum so a nice write off.😀 Allan
  18. It's not totally accurate but that may not be that important for some. I do wonder if there is a market for yet another Victory kit. Check out the sails, oversize belaying pins and odd looking gratings as they are not realistic but still look nice to many people. The wales are completely wrong but again, it probably does not matter to some builders or any casual observer. Hope we can agree to disagree Keith, but if the pintles and gudgeons are any indication, the fittings may not be very good. They are hugely out of scale. For a first rate around 1800 the pintles would be 5 1/2 inches wide (0.06" at 1:87) Scaling the photos, they look to be closer 0.12" wide, or double what they should be. On the plus side, this kit gives a lot of builders a chance to do a plank on frame model instead of POB. There is always the opportunity to do some research and replace the things that are not correct. Allan
  19. Got it, thanks Gary. Yep, "anti-idiot" netting for tourists makes sense. Allan
  20. Think I will stay away from volunteering to do a test run for fear of being chastised or otherwise lambasted for making a suggestion.😁 Allan
  21. The above what I see in post #29. Did something get deleted or is it only me that is missing something? Without seeing a photo I must say I like the anti-idiot explanation! Allan
  22. I am not sure it is always a matter of right or wrong as much as common practice. Then again, there is usually a reason things were done certain ways. In the end not all model builders find these kinds of things to matter as much as other builders who find the details to be of varying degrees of importance. As long as we as individuals are enjoying the hobby, that is what counts. Allan
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