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Rustyj

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Posts posted by Rustyj

  1. Thank you Chuck for your advice. Also thanks for all the likes too.

     

    What I did is replaced the 3/16" 5th strake with a 7/32" strake. Clipped in place.

    I then measured the distance between the 2nd strake and the 5th strake. These two

    strakes should have been 1/4" wide but I needed a bit more than that. So I then split the

    distance between 2nd strake and the 5th strake and cut the two strakes to fit. These

    are represented by the red boxes in the picture. Each set between the ports had to be custom cut

    to fit. Once I got past bulkhead "7" I resumed normal planking.

    Whew I hope that explains it.

     

    DSC000471.thumb.jpg.de748665ff6e1beaefb6ae98be80e680.jpg

     

     

  2. Thanks Joe,

     

    No matter what is going on I try to steal whatever time I can. Even if it's 20 minutes and one piece.

     

    I've completed the port side upper planking. Unfortunately there was a "HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM" moment.

     

    As I was working from the bow to stern doing two rows at a time by the 4th row at bulkhead "K" I started to see a problem cropping up.

    I placed the 5th 3/16 strake where should be and you can see the other rows starting to take a dive.

     

    DSC00046.thumb.JPG.25fb9492007044755ce16390aaaa3fa3.JPG

     

    Scratched my head for a few minutes, made some measurements and looked at the model from a few different angles.

    Looking at the next picture you can see what looks like a dip in the bottom of the wales.

     

    DSC00045.thumb.JPG.56e9e0009749e6d644a72aba371eadc9.JPG

     

    So I measured some more and determined the wales at bulkhead "A" was 1/16" between bulkheads "K" and "7". The Starboard side was correct.

     

    905670049_Starboardissue.thumb.jpg.1383b465fbd410047088d1428de13520.jpg

     

    So I pulled the planks off back to bulkhead "K" and the custom fit the pieces between "K" and "7". fit to the proper height of the 5th strake.

    Thankfully the frieze will cover this and when running the molding the seam adjustment will never be seen.

    I wanted to mention this so that others will be aware of the consequences of being off a little bit.

     

    Anyways here is the completed port side planking. Needs some more sanding and a coat of wipe on poly.

    On to the starboard side now.

     

    DSC00048.thumb.JPG.338c2012f5f98ef11bc366abedb14097.JPG

     

    DSC00050.thumb.JPG.d1cc8654f46c5c5516091f21fbe35177.JPG

     

    DSC00049.thumb.JPG.d992c3e477429c9dcfe157cfc30f0e1b.JPG

     

  3. 13 hours ago, Chuck said:

    Don't procrastinate too much with those bollard timbers....those are tricky.  Have a great New Years!!!

     

    Happy New Years to you Chuck and everyone else too!

     

    I completed the bollard timbers a while back. While doing the counter and wales I constantly flip

    the hull upside-down, spin it around and just manipulate it a lot. So to be safe I tucked them away 

    and kept them off until the last possible moment. If all goes well I'll be putting them on later today.

     

    I'm also re-doing the forward most gun port opening to be more inline with the plans.

     

    DSC00019.thumb.JPG.d17219250dadc4d23b76230d462b4ecf.JPG

  4. My resin castings from Syren arrived a couple of days ago and they are great.

     

    I can't believe sharp and nice the fine detail is. They came in a nice sturdy box

    which they were returned to and tucked safely away until needed. 

     

    DSC000422.thumb.jpg.48616a890f20482b21e06d49a5438e1b.jpg

     

     

    DSC000412.thumb.jpg.cbe27573bc9cd60ca01c523bf0595d98.jpg

     

    I also received the chapter two laser cut set in cherry. These are my fall back

    if I have issues when I attempt to scratch them.

    DSC000402.thumb.jpg.cf5487f842b0788eb03a01cacd32c238.jpg

     

    The gun ports have all been painted red ochre so hopefully some planking will get done this weekend.

  5. Your build is looking very nice! Well done.

     

    I've used ebony in the past and yes it is very hard. Whatever blades you use to cut it will be dulled and only good

    for cutting ebony after that. The wood is very hard and bending is difficult. The dust is toxic and it sticks to unsealed

    wood and everything else a lot like toner dust. I wore a mask and latex gloves when working with it. It does produce a

    nice look when done but it wasn't worth the risks and trouble so I don't use it anymore.  

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