Javelin

I just discovered your log and with me, probably more readers. Due to visiting from my phone, I'm prone to go to the topics I follow as well as the ones mentioned in kit and scratch as the most recently updated. (that's how I ended up in this topic as well). Unfortunately it also means I'm missing a lot of topics as they disappear from most recently updated as soon as someone posts in another topic, if you have "bad luck", someone posts 1 minute after you and your topic update is missed by many. That said, it's a great build so far, I love the memorial detail as it's something that might be discovered a 100 years from now and someone will be puzzled (or know the story behind it). I can't imagine getting up to your level at some point. No matter what you decide, I do hope to see her finished at some point.

She's a very gorgeous ship. Your model does her justice. She'll look awesome with some colour as well.

Great result. Glossy acrylic gel is indeed difficult to work with. Very sticky and doesn't really flow. You can dilute it with water to make it flow, but does lose its glossy finish then... Your solution definately does wonders. Your coloring of the bottom really gives a great and realistic effect.

I'd say the upper tier is voluminous, not like the model shown above. If it were flat, with a balcony around, the maker of the drawings shouldn't/wouldn't have put a shadow zone on the forward part of the top tier. The shadow should have stopped at the balcony in that case. Of course he could have made a mistake as well. I believe the line distortion may also be a sign of the voluminous dome.

After a lot of hesitation on the real order of installation I've decided to push ahead on anything underwater. The plan is then to pour it in the resin and install the remaining parts when the hull is firmly sitting in the epoxy. Same for the multicat. Still strugling to get a convincing floating line. Although a pretty big line, it's still tiny at this scale. I've first installed the spuds and the clamps on the spuds. I'm also working on the propulsion (you can see one shroud already in this picture). I've opted to do this at the end of this process since the propulsion (like on the real thing) is vulnerable, and I was afraid to break it off during manipulation later on. With those spuds and anchors booms in place, it's a real pain to handle it. I can only lay it flat on its starboard side, since nothing's sticking out there, but I can't sit her up straight nor put her on her portside...

Smart solution for that support. I understand why you wouldn't want that claw to take any weight and your reasoning on the balance sounds solid. We understand....😂

Another small update. I've more or less finished the cutter ladder. The central shaft that connects the cutter to its motors as well as the pipeline from the underwater pump to the rest of the vessel was added. The small upstanding parts are guiding rollers for the side wires that run from the deck of the ship all the way to the anchors. They need to keep the wires clear as the ladder can move up and down and you don't want those wires under tension to touch anything. I'm somewhat stuck as to the next steps now. I figure I'll glue the ladder in place on the ship and connect the rigging between the ladder and the gantry (that moves the ladder up and down). First however I'll have to install the auxiliary spud and clamps. I've also started the multicat/workboat. This one is called Auxilia (named after the Roman Auxiliary army in which Spartacus might have served in his time). She is quite big for a multicat and especially ordered to work with Spartacus as other multicats aren't powerful enough to handle the large anchors etc. She has that regular roll in the front and a typical box shape. She has 3 propellors and a bow thruster in a protruding structure in front. Equipped with two heavy winches as well as two 60t cranes to handle stores, cutters and anchors. She'll likely be placed in following position, to fill up the space in the back. Not sure if the styrene will float on the epoxy and whether I'll need to hold it down during curing or hold it up to keep it from sinking. The blue covered surfaces around are the panels I built to pour the epoxy. They'll be temporary and I could have made them from regular styrene, but I wanted them transparent so I can monitor the epoxy during the pour. They're slightly oversized to avoid the epoxy spilling over the sides, yet not too high to give me more freedom to move around during the pour.

Love the way you finished the edges of the base as well as the overall level of this display

Chances are small that you'll find someone for following reasons: - Most sailors are from Asian countries, generally not represented here - shipwrecks, apart for obscure ferries in distant countries, really aren't frequent nowadays - if shipwrecks do occur, they are generally due to structural failures causings ships to sink in a matter of minutes, taking the whole crew with them (lots of bulk carriers, Stellar Daisy style) You don't really see many ships sinking due to collisions nowadays. With large fires, ships do get abandonned, but most of the time in an organised way with external help, not really using the lifeboats. I did encounter 1 shipwreck survivor (capsized dredging vessel, multiple casualties) in my 15-year sailing carreer, but that's about it. That said, it never hurts to post it here and I do wish him good luck with the search and PhD.

So Mark, you're Sphinx is finished... Time to continue work on this gem maybe?

Hi Johny, the flags don't mean anything, the triangular ones are pendants, they signify numbers and double/triple etc of the letter before or after them. considering they are alternated with normal signal flags shows there is no meaning. It is also normal to have the flags in this order, which is meaningless in any language to avoid offending anyone during a port visit.

I also made a small payment. More of a test to see how this works.

Brilliant work Glen, fantastic display of perseverance. With my limited bottle experience I can already imagine what you went through. And this build went really fast, you overtook my build in no time and with such great results. I also love the way she fills the bottle, not too large, not too little.

Small steps forward. Started rigging the anchor booms. They're held by a large pendant wire at the top and 2 smaller auxiliary wires. Don't forget that the anchor booms are over 40m (120ft) long and the anchor weight itself is 60t (+ force to pull it out of the ground and additional optional ballast weight). I had tiny 0.3mm holes drilled in the gantry to pass the wires through and similar (but not all the way through) holes in the anchor booms to attach the wires. In the original design I was hoping this would allow me to hinge the boom in to pass the bottle neck and then pull it outwards once inside the bottle. Not entirely sure this was going to work. In any case I have glued the anchor boom in a fixed position on the model now. Will make life easier later on. I've also continued on the base with that 2nd layer. Looking at it now, it does look overscaled, I am planning to cover this with a layer of gel to avoid air bubbles in the epoxy later on. Due to the overscaled look of this sand, I believe I would simply paint sea bottoms in any future 1/2000 scale builds, perhaps with an acrylic base to create more texture. I have also added some different shades of green, although I'm not entirely sure anything would grow at such a depth. It does give a contrast with the original sea bottom and the cut parts in the end. As you can see, she also received the barge loading T-pipes. Considering the top view now, I might adjust the lay-out with the floating line going to PS of the dredger and the multicat approaching on the SB side to balance the whole display a bit.

Great solution for getting those halves together, will keep that one in mind for later. Applying that acrylic after the ship is in, will be terribly difficult with that mast and those oars in place. On the other hand it would be difficult to insert and assemble the hull while the gel is still wet... Perhaps apply the gel in the back of the bottle and a bit on the sides leaving a large spot open in the centre for the ship? Then let it dry, insert the ship and add acrylic around it? Just thinking out loud. Didn't apply acrylic to my Sea Installer because of the difficulty to go around objects and smearing it on the vessel. I'll be happy to see your solution.

I was just wondering though, you poured the resin, but didn't put the ship in? Does that mean you'll pour another layer or will you insert it with acrylic gel on top of the epoxy due to its limited draft?

Then it was time to start coating the bottom. First coat. As you can see it was a bit too liquid to stay on the vertical surfaces, but that's not too bad. I also opted not to give the styrene a dark coat. I've thought about it, but I believe it would give an overall darker appearance, obscuring the anchors etc. once it's submerged in epoxy. Also the sand would probably not stick very well, while now it is bonded directly to the styrene plate. In the right corner you can also see one of my secret measuring tools. The paper Ikea measurement tapes are easy to use as you can bend them and measure between obstacles etc. where straight rulers can't be used. You can see the spaces where the anchors should be. I'm going to "cheat" by rigging the wires to the small steel brackets that are drilled in the plate and later on put the anchors over these brackets. It would be difficult to attach the wires directly to the anchors and create enough tension to keep the wires taut. Test fitting of the ship. After this test, I decided to actually change the position of the PS bracket since the original position is a bit too much forward. Everything fits, so I'll continue with the second layer of sand, this time with more density, less liquid and just filling up spots where the first layer is too thin.

I was thinking along the same lines as Keith, but I don't think it will be practical. Outside a bottle perhaps, but sliding the hull halves through a noose (which you can't really hold open) will be very difficult, especially with those oars sticking out. Unfortunately I don't really have a better solution to offer apart from "regular" conical locating pins and pushing the hull halves together by the parts on top of the bow and stern. Perhaps a variation on Keith's idea by putting nooses around the stern, bow top and ram to pull together. Those nooses would probably be easier to loop around when the hull halves are inside the bottle, and they'd leave the oars alone.

Genious way of doing those rivets. Love the plating effect so far. This is real scratchbuilding.

Been a while again. I had expected for a break, but due to unforeseen circumstances, I could continue the build. I've been detailing the ship further, I'm feeling without the bottling risk, I could expend the additional time on this. I've done some tiny rigging on the system that holds the spud and compensates the forces on the spud and vessel in large swell and/or forces from the cutting process. I've made some anchor winches as she doesn't have real mooring winches. Drilled tiny holes in a 0.75mm thick strip. Then cut to length and added the gipsy wheels for the anchor chains. The finished product, hugely enlarged. The other objects are a half-height container and a 10ft container. Fully coated the hull in yellow-green now, to avoid contrasts below the water line when painting the anti-fouling. I then continued with the bottom profile. A more detailed sketch was made. It was then divided in different layers with different thicknesses, based on real dredging operations. The original depth would be the highest point, that part I will probably litter with tyres, debris etc.. The lowest part would be a part that is already at the final depth. The middle part is slowly being dredged in layers to reach that final depth. I chose this lay-out so the deepest part would give a proper visibility on the anchor and dredging cut, while showing some specific issues with having the anchors in deeper and shallower water than the ladder itself. This can give some issues with the wires below the surface. As you can see, I started with the vessel outline and anchor positions. I then chose an orientation and measurements and last, but not least drew the layers and measured them from the sketch. In the lower right corner I've made a small sequence note as I'd probably screw up if I didn't write these things down. This whole profile will be covered and smoothed out with sand-acrylic mixture. The "dredge layer" with the semi-circle, is made too large, so I can adjust to push the ladder back and hold the vessel evenkeel on the spud. The anchor boom will be swept more aft eventually. You can also see the large hydraulic mechanisms to tilt the spuds from horizontal to vertical and vice-versa when shifting between sailing and dredging. Most parts are still dry-fitted since I'm still adding the details. Having the big parts loose leaves me more space to manoeuver the pincers in.

Love the blue garden dragon. The ship is also nice Brilliant job so far. In a way it's a pitty you won't do the rigging, but on the other side it does put more focus on your brilliant hull work and decoration.

Somehow she looks large... Bulky is probably a better word for it (might be the macro picture of course). It'll be a challenge to get her in a bottle for sure... Great looking corvus, always thought they were shorter compared to the vessel. You're off to a well deserved vacation. Enjoy!

Thanks for the encouragement throughout the project Keith. Let me start off with an example of my production of small parts. In this case I needed to make 4 devices that were of the same dimensions. In such a case I'll determine which measurement is the most important one to be the same and which one I can adapt later on to make them match. Then I'll cut a strip of the most important dimension and start shaping the first part. Once it's ready, I cut it off and do the next one. And time for an overview of where I'm at at the moment. As you can see the barge loading installation is nearly in place. The large T-shaped pipes still need to be placed. It took me a while to realize that by cancelling the whole bottle idea (sorry @Glen McGuire), I wasn't restricted by that bottle anymore. Here was a drawing of the original idea, side view and forward view (from the bottle neck). The cutter head over the neck would have been cancelled considering the experience with the windmill hub on the Sea Installer project, but the bottle was to lay on a dredge anchor supported by some rocks. As you can see on the front view, the rigging would have been a nightmare and doing it ahead of pouring resin probably was a recipe for disaster. Since I realized this, I've gone back to an old concept for this vessel. Originally I wanted to do this in 1/400 scale without epoxy, but with a regular plexi box (which was probably going to take around 3 years to build). Below is a top view drawing in more or less actual measurements. I'll make a more precise one once I figure out what I'm going to use a base for this. Above is a top view. The ship's position you can figure out. Numbers 1 and 2 are the anchors, with number 1 anchor just being laid on the bottom. Number 3 is the floating line (on the surface of the expoxy). Number 4 is a multicat workboat stand-by near the anchor of the floating line. The multicat is there to simply fill up some open surface. I think I'll also treat the epoxy surface with acrylic gel for tiny waves. The straight lines crossing are the "cut" with the middle one being the center line, where the spud is positioned. That would be the lowest part, with Number 2 anchor on a more shallow area and perhaps for visibility, Number 1 anchor on the same depth or deeper than the cut depth.

Looks very convincing already! Can't tell if it's card or wood, which means you're doing an excellent job.

I don't like a shelf-of-doom. These things tend to annoy me greatly, being a brake on every project, I don't like to leave loose ends. As it stands, I'm now planning to keep the same lay-out, minus the bottle. I think I'll build up a box of 4 plexi walls, build the model inside, including pouring the epoxi to finally finish it by closing the plexi box on top. This would allow me greater access to the rigging during/after pouring, which would increase chances of succes. The anchor boom and its rigging are my greatest worries for bottling as its deployment should be done before pouring (= ship not very fixed yet). Tightening some of the lines and preventing the anchors to float in the epoxy were other concerns/risks. All those things can be fixed in an open box, but working around the corner inside a bottle is doubtfull at best.