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Jim Lad

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Everything posted by Jim Lad

  1. Just catching up with your beautiful model, Mark. She really looks the goods. John
  2. She's looking great, Ollie. Just a tip for next time (don't change it on the model) - make the guys a little longer and the lashings a little shorter; that'll be more realistic. John
  3. I've got that one, Antony. I found it very helpful when researching my 'Stag' - as well as being a really interesting read. John
  4. Welcome back, Greg. That model has really turned out very nicely indeed. John
  5. Exactly, Ollie. Back and forth between the two rings a few times and then finish off with a series of half hitches going right around the lashing. John
  6. These ships were rarely alongside a wharf, Ollie, but when they were it was a case of using anything solid to secure a mooring line. John
  7. The completed backstays look first class, Ollie! Your call on the swivels, Ollie, but remember that she wasn't commissioned until 1817. John
  8. That Swiss pear looks a lovely colour, Augie - It'll make a great deck. John
  9. Ollie, Sorry I missed your earlier post regarding the braces. Yes, they would certainly lead as far aft as possible. I doubt that a cutter like this would mount swivels on the rail - very unusual. Do any of the contemporary paintings show them? John
  10. Chuck is spot on. Trying to bend wood of that size is a sure lesson in frustration. John
  11. Les, You're correct that the double 'line' held apart by the 'beams' is the radio aerial. Both the aerial and its connection running down to the deckhouse should be fine copper wire. The thicker single line below the aerial is the triatic stay - no real use on that ship except to carry the signal halliards. John
  12. Great stuff, Piet - she's really coming together. Brian, if you think you'd like to build a submarine, why not think about AE1 or AE2 - seems an appropriate time for a model of one of them. John
  13. All of the square sails were. John
  14. That lower yard looks fine, Ollie - as does your traveller! To make the grommets, you could try simply splicing a small loop of thread into the shroud, rather than making an actual grommet. John
  15. OK, Les, gotcha! The pendants on the derrick topping lifts would be wire - so black or dark grey thread for them - the same for the guys pendants. The remainder would be natural fibre rope, so off white to pale tan, depending on your preference. The aerials would, of course, be bare copper wire. As for sizes, say 2 inch wire for the pendants and 2 1/2 inch rope for the topping lift and guy tackles. For the halyard on the forestay, say 1 1/2 inches. These are circumference, of course, and would translate into your scale as diameters as:- 1 1/2 inch - 0.18 millimetres 2 inch - 0.22 millimetres 2 1/2 inch - 0.28 millimetres As you can see, not a lot of difference and the same size would probably suit all three sizes. For the signal halyards, just use the very finest you can find as these would be under 1 inch at full size; and for the aerials the best stuff you could get would be the finest electrical winding wire. John
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