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Everything posted by Jim Lad
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Well, Francis seems to be slightly stalled at the moment. I got hardly anything done last Wednesday due to there being hardly any visitors in the museum. No, that isn't an oxymoron, because there were no visitors the volunteer guides were all bored out of their minds so kept coming to have a chat to the friendly model maker. At lest I got a couple more square frames on. Here she is at the moment. John
- 745 replies
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- francis pritt
- mission ship
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Just what you needed, Ollie. Hope you don't have to man the pumps for too long! John
- 803 replies
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- colonial cutter
- modellers shipyard
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Nick, I'm afraid there's no real answer to your question except, "When convenient". It's often easier to finish before assembly while you can still get at bits easily, but some parts won't be able to be finished until they're on the modfel. Just try and think ahead and do the finishing when it's easiest for you to do, but remember - don't put finish on anything that has to be glued, or you'll be simply gluing to the finish, not to the wood. John
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Ollie, I've never worked with Tassie Oak, but I've heard that it can be liable to twisting or bending. Make sure that your Oak dowels are really well seasoned. John
- 803 replies
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- colonial cutter
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Beautifully done, Nils. Thank you for sharing your build in such detail. John
- 222 replies
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- gorch fock
- barque
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Looking very elegant, Augie! John
- 2,191 replies
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- confederacy
- Model Shipways
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Very nice liner through the bulwark, Michael. I know that you'll end up with a cockpit coaming exactly right for your taste! John
- 2,207 replies
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Ollie, I've found four contemporary paintings plus the cutaway drawing of Mermaid and none of them show the bitts. maybe they should stay off for the sake of historical accuracy. John
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They would usually be vertical rather than perpendicular to the rail, Ollie, but interestingly, King doesn't show them on his painting. John
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Good to see you back in the shop, Danny - every little step you complete is one less to do. John
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The fid rests on the trestle trees taking the full weight of the mast. The lower end of the topmast is bare and has no other fittings. If you want to add some detail, you could include the thwartships sheave in the topmast just above the trestle trees which takes the top rope - the rope used to lower the topmast. John
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Michael, You've certainly made some good progress while I've been away for a few days! Great work (as usual). As for the turks head, here's a very bad photo of my Palmerin under construction. You can see the binding on the tiller backed up by a turks head - scale 1:48, so I don't think you'll have a problem, mate! John
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That looks neat, Ollie! Don't forget that the deadeye straps line up with the angle of their respective shroud or stay. John
- 803 replies
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- colonial cutter
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Bob, I've used that method on all my models that have hawse pipes through the hull. John
- 420 replies
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
Jim Lad replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nicely done with the boat covers, Tom. Are you going to do lashings for them? John- 326 replies
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- vinal haven
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Bob, great job with the hull painting! I use pretty much the same method as Michael - a hole to the diameter of a piece of brass tubing that can then be cut to the correct shape at each end and the outer rim filed nicely rounded to protrude from the hull. John
- 420 replies
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