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Jim Lad
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Everything posted by Jim Lad
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Thanks, all! Mobbsie - If you have a decent size Privet then how about turning it into lovely timber for your own next build? Mark - I haven't seen Jack's log. The only place I can find it is in the National Library, but it sounds interesting. Bob - As I mentioned, I suspect that the 'counter rim frame' is a piece of pearling lugger technology Popeye - Yep, still a knee to be fitted there when the counter frame is finally shaped. John -
Man, but she's looking good, Danny! John
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Amazing how different a model looks with a coat of paint, Popeye! John
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Thanks for the comments, fellas. Not sure what I'll be doing with the finish as yet, Mobbsie, but I'll be using Privet for both hull and deck planking. John
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I didn't update my log after my last regular visit to the museum as when I got there I found that I'd forgotten to pack the wood I needed to continue building! I therefore spent most of the day talking to visitors and having cups of coffee in the members lounge! On Friday I had some extra time at the museum desk so was able to do a bit of work on the 'counter rim frame' - pearling lugger jargon. This is the frame that runs around the counter at deck level and onto which both the hull and deck planking butts. Because it is fitted into the aftermost frames at deck level, fitting it is largely a case of 'suck it and see' (or trial and error). So the roughed out frame is now glued and dowelled to the two aftermost frames ready for shaping. By the time I'm at the museum next Wednesday the glue will be nicely cured and ready to work on. The photos are, I think, pretty self explanatory. The final one shows the typical kicked up stern of the Thursday Island luggers. John
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Rigging Tension-how do you do it?
Jim Lad replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I don't do anything scientific, Harvey - just my own judgement. John -
Can't wait to see what's coming next. John
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Rick, I use Selleys Aquadhere and Five Minute Araldite. As for blades, you might want to consider using scalpel blades instead - you'll probably find that they're better quality and last longer. The two that I find most useful are No. 11 (fine straight blade) and No. 21 (heavier curved blade). But remember - buy them from a vet or chiropody supplier, not from a surgical supplier - much cheaper for the same thing. John
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Hey, Mobbsie, how did I miss your update from Wednesday - looking good, mate! John
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Coming together nicely, Popeye! John
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It's great to see you back at work on the cutter, Michael! John
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They've turned out really well, Tim. John
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HMS Ocean 1898 by tozbekler
Jim Lad replied to tozbekler's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
She's really coming along nicely. John -
No rush, Bob, we're still here! John
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That reinforcing should really help to keep it all together. John
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Nice start on the rigging, Bob! John
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Looks good, Tim! John
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Richard, The yellow cover was used on the first edition in 1979, and the grey cover with the photo on subsequent editions (from 1984 onward). In my (1990) edition, the 1984 edition is noted as a 'revised' edition and 1990 as a 'reprint', but there is nothing to say what (if any) additions or corrections were made from 1979 to 1984. John
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Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
Jim Lad replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mike, Have you thought of ditching the power tools and simply cutting the joints by hand? Use a knife and file for small pieces; a chisel if the pieces are large. John -
Looking pretty good, Popeye! John
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The finished deck looks excellent, Augie! Enjoy the trip - we're already waiting for the photos!! John
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A very nice start! John
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
Jim Lad replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks for the update - she's coming on nicely. John
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