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Jim Lad

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Everything posted by Jim Lad

  1. Yes, Definitely a four master, Kester, but I don't think she's in the process of doing anything much at the moment, with three of the watch having a yarn and another with time to take a photo! Maybe the braces are where they are because the mat'es going to 'sweat them up' at the end of the watch? John PS. That photo's a nice find Frankie - a rare clear photo of the main deck.
  2. Chris, I somehow missed your return after the birth of your family. Good to see her progressing again, mate! John
  3. Yeah, Michael, but you take it a bit to extremes! John
  4. Meredith, If you've got the space, I'd go for a really grand 1:48 scale model - it's a great scale to work at - you can pretty much show every nut and bolt if you want to! John
  5. Mate, that's almost like asking, "How long is a piece of string?" The diameter of the derrick will depend on its safe working load (SWL), length and the thickness of the steel used in its construction. For an average sort of cargo derrick of 5 ton SWL, a diameter of 8 or 9 inches won't be too far out. John
  6. Bob, The plans are currently at the museum, but if I remember correctly, she was 66 feet between perpendiculars. More updates in a few days! John
  7. Under weigh, Mario. It'll be good to see lots of pictures so we can see just how this type of construction works. John
  8. You may even get away with soft soldering if you don't have facilities to silver solder. As there'll be no weight on the rowlocks thaey should be OK so long as you drill through the strip part to solder the wire. John
  9. Crikey, Mobbsie, you've really made progress on her. She's looking really good! John
  10. Yep, anything heavy could be moved using a combination of stay and yardarm tackles! John
  11. That's an easy one to answer, Chuck - expertly! John
  12. Dave, I'm not sure just how large a hawser laid rope can be - when I was at sea we used to use 10 inch mooring lines that were hawser laid (just don't be in the way if one breaks under strain). Cable laid rope was indeed made by laying up three hawser laid ropes, which is why it was laid up left handed. The lower stays and shrouds of hemp rigged vessels were commonly (but not universally) of cable laid rope, and so left handed. On small ships the lower rigging was sometimes hawser laid. I'm speaking here of English 19th century practice, by the way. John
  13. Try this link, Tom. http://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/WMEGZF_PT_796_torpedo_boat_Fall_River_MA John
  14. I would imagine that kit builders supply POB hulls because thay're easier to cut and pack and customers don't need so much in the way of heavy tools or workshops to build large hulls. It would also be easier to incorporate lower gun decks or false guns into a POB structure. For the scratch builder with access to standard woodworking tools and some workshop space, I think that a solid hull (or bread and butter) would be a more practical solution than POB. John
  15. Here are two illustrations from 'Seamanship in the Age of Sail' by John Harland that explain the operation of launching a boat from the deck of a sailing ship. This is an excellent reference book for those members who build models of wooden sailing ships and wish to understand more of their methods of operation and handling. John
  16. Man, you really have parred your operation down to the bare bones, Popeye, but your crew need more backbone - they're gutless - I wouldn't rib you about that! John
  17. No good, Mark - those critters are short about 50% of the regulation number of legs. Augie - I hope the can of coke wasn't open. That stuff could cause serious damage if it splashed in your finishes. John PS. If you need to buy the fish, make sure that they're really fresh and put a tiny hole near the mouth to show where the hook was.
  18. Well, well - we have a mechanical genius in our midst! Nice going, Andy! John
  19. Bruce, I'd think that the forward cormer of the canannel would be a good place for the bumpkin and, yes, just long enought to spread the sail would be right for length. As for belaying points for the guys and martingale, I think the only answer is that they "be secured at a convenient point". Ain't that the truth!! It's one of the joys of building ships of this preriod, though! John
  20. And I suppose we'll eventually see a coffee pot and some mugs on top of those drawers, Tom. John
  21. 2.5 mm would certainly be a lot closer, and easier to work with around the curves of the hull. John
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