dvm27

I've seen this a couple times over the years and have come to the conclusion that he is clearly a bachelor!

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.

I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

I'm afraid you're in a world of hurt Dindsy. I would treat one of the lift lines with a 50% white glue/water solution and see what it looks like after it dries. But I'm not optimistic. Being a cross-section, re-rigging it should not take much time at all and I would use the opportunity to upgrade the blocks and rigging line to Syren Models products. Your second effort will look far better and you'll be much happier in the long term.

Now, take a scissors and cut the main shrouds across the middle and you're committed to ship modelling excellence!

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.

If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.

Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

I wouldn't sweat it. Nobody's going to notice 1/16" after the model is completed. As for raising them all at once or after completed there's really no right or wrong. On a full hull I usually install them in sections to get a feel if they are aligned more or less. Any minor inconsistencies can sometimes be cheated by adjusting the next frame. But on this cross section there is so little change in the half-breadth that it's probably not a factor.

Great repair Jean-Mark! One of the things I learned on my first plank on frame model was that my skills would improve dramatically as the build progressed. It is important not to "settle" for anything less than perfect early in the build or you will surely regret it later on. I also found that using 3X magnification loupes while working (regrettably 5-7x now 🙁) greatly improved the finished result. If you are happy with the work at 3x magnification you will surely be happy with the naked eye.

Tom, I like Chuck's method because it incorporates the round up. That might be possible on the mill but it's above my pay grade.

Like the rug in the classic movie "The Big Lebowski" it ties the whole thing together.  Such a beautiful model!

How many lines were fouled and spars snapped while Ed was signing this delightful "prop"?

Lovely job on those fixed blocks Chuck. Cutting them in-situ would be stressful for most of us!

Are the sills of the sweep ports to be left natural or painted red as well?

Love your approach to the swivel hardware.

I hope your model ends up in one of the prestigious European competitions. It has Gold Medal written all over it.

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf

please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

Instead of using fillers to repair the errant scores make a small patch using the same wood to fill in the defect. Make sure that the grain matches the direction of the carling (don't use end grain). Once glued in place and sanded flush the defect should be barely perceptible. I have corrected several errant mortises this way.

The officer gets a spoon and cup (great details by the way) but no light in the filling room? I think OSHA would level a fine for that.

Scratch building is chock full of learning experiences. Hopefully you are using PVA glue which is easily debonded with isopropyl alcohol. May I suggest you prepare a test scarph joint with your tissue paper then debond it with PVA. I'm suggesting this because some papers I tried actually created a black mess during the debonding process and ruined the piece. Of course if you are planning to build a perfect, error free model this is not a concern but I buy my alcohol by the gallons. Also test the finish you propose to use to make sure it doesn't make the tissue paper bleed. Finally, I have found that using thicker tissue paper results in a weaker joint. Perforating the tissue paper prior to gluing the mating segment seems to help this. As well make sure to use treenails or brass fastening to reinforce these joints.

You're off to a great start!

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.

Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

6 hours ago, Chuck said:

In addition..the swivel

stocks.  Which you will see Greg added but are not shown on the Speedwell contemporary draft.

I didn't actually notice that the swivel stocks were not on the original model Chuck. But the swivels ("ten 1/2 pounder swivel guns") are clearly noted in Winfield's British Warships in the Age of Sail 1714-1792 as specified for the Cruiser class. Of interest to us modelers is that only enough swivel guns to fit out one side was required. As they were so light they could be carried to the other side as needed.

I use small pieces of index card held together with white glue. Just keep building them using small pieces of card. On some patterns like the mast step I'll have assembled 7 or 8 pieces of card. The unplanked side is a bit tricky. You can either extend the bulkhead all the way to the frame or stop where the planking would have been (leaving a gap). See Chuck's  Speedwell below. As you'll find, it is much easier to leave a gap then achieve a perfect mating with the planking!

https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2024_03/forecastlebulkhead5.jpg.9ce18fb61c7a32f2595493a29fab12d3.jpg

You should cut as close to the line as you are comfortable doing without cutting into the line. I used to leave about 1/16" using my scroll saw then sanded to the lines on my disk sander or oscillating spindle sander. After some practice I'm able to cut to within a whisker of the line and that is sufficient. Fairing after the hull is assembled will blend everything together. As well, I don't bevel the frames (except the hawse and cant frames) prior to installing as over-bevelling even one futtock will affect several frames before and after it.

Lovely work. Anyone who completes one of those Marine Models (was it Bliss marine Co?) with their "pre-carved" hulls has my utmost respect. Give me plank on frame any day!