dvm27

I have now added the inner counter planking, using the laser cut pieces, I then made up the margin planks, using the templates and cutting in the scarph joints. After mounting the margin planks, I made up and mounted the waterways, using square strip wood sanded to a quarter round shape. Lastly, sanded the checkerboard floor to size and shape and glued it in place.
 
Next, I will do the coamings and gratings and the other deck parts.
 
Bob

Bread oven
 
without the interior of the oven with bricks.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

Hi druxey, I see now. I confused its length because of the wheel handle coming down in front. So it looks like it would be shorter than the actual travel of the rope lock to lock, but more than chafing in a hole just a little bigger than the rope. I will use it, because I would reasonably guess the sliding cover as in Victory would have been something later than 1760.
 
More work on the pillars, now on the upper deck reaching to the quarterdeck and forecastle. I am mainly working from what I can see in my photos of the original Bellona model (below), and what seems rational. For example, no pillars beside the aft hatch, and therefore no pillars possible there because the centers do no line up with any beams above. No pillars close to the bitts, because they are providing vertical support at their locations. Except, the model shows pillars under the fore brace bitts on the quarterdeck. Also, iron columns beside the stove. I am not sure about pillars in the wardroom on the upper deck. It looks like there are more in the last photo below, but I can't quite see if it is every beam, and how far astern. I seem to have more beams in the quarterdeck over the wardroom than the model shows, but my beams are taken directly from the original dockyard drawings.
 
5:00 Mountain time, sun over the yardarm, and time for a scotch to think about it!
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

According to my calculations, the slot in the scuttle would only need to be about 7" long. Slainte!

Well, no matter what framng there is around the bowsprit as it passes through the deck, there has to be a solid 'landing' for the deck planking. There is a hint of what might be the structure in Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, Plate 30. One can see the carligns on each side of the bowsprit and the ledges on each side. I suspect that solid pieces of wood filled the elliptical space between the carlings and bowsprit. (Think of the mast partners, but elongated.)

Alan here's a old one showing the crew goofing off. Gary

Very nice, clean build Cajun. You’re going to have a lovely first model to display soon.

I've seen the construction of this lovely model under development by David Antscherl. You've made an excellent choice for a first wooden model. Hats of to Model Shipways for having a Master Modeler design an entry level kit!

Thank you JJ, Chuck and Wahka for your complements.  Wahka you made me laugh; you are a funny guy 👍🏻.
I have finally reach the pint for the last hull plank.  Thought I will share the process.
 


As Chuck recommended, I measured at every frame and tapered the planks. The plank needed was wider than 1l4.  Then both edges were beveled about 10 degree angle. The corners facing down were sanded a little to led the glue run out (about 45 degree angle).  Pencil was used (both upper and lower edges) to simulate caulking (I use a Jumbo HB Fabre Castle pencil).
 

 

 
I put a bead of glue in the facing down edge. See below, by tuning my finger down and forward the bead is created.  This helps for less glue to squeeze out while gluing the plank.



I Also use CA glue in every frame.  The plank is put in place and held down for 60 secs (now clamps because is the last).  With a wet paper towel, excess glue and pencil marks are wiped clean.
 

 

 
I used both hands but one is holding my phone for the picture.


 

 
The very last one at the stern.
 

 
DONE!
 

 

 

 
Next steps, final sanding, wood sealer and finish.
Best,
G
 
 
 
 

I’ve finished planking the starboard side.  This is the second hull I've planked and my first attempt at single planking.  So I’m pretty happy with it.  That said, there are several mistakes that will be obvious to this group.  I had to take off and redo several pieces in the first belt near the stern because I had not faired bulkheads 27 and 28 enough.  The bend at that spot kept getting worse the closer I got to the stern post.  I have given thought to shelving the project, but I can’t do it.  I really want to finish it.  I the worst case, I’ll feel compelled to build another copy down the road.
 

Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.

Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.

Thank you Fred and for all the likes.
My plan is to draw and hand paint the figures at 3x to 5x and turn them into digital images I could shrink to size and place to fit the freezes.
I have collected a bunch of images I like from sculptures and I am drafting them. I will post the paintings as I go.
here is another drafted in an office PosIt  at about 3x
 

 
Bellow I adde the window seals 
 

 
 
The roof piece goes in 

 
 
Slate shingles with some weathering looking paint 

 
This help me build the Transom more confortable.

 
All the moldings are in and the red decoration on to of the window frames; need to touch up the paint a little.  Painted black the top of the frames.
 

 
A good  view of the moldings. I added some read on the arches in the side windows. I have seen that in contemporary models.
 

 
I am holding on with some moldings which I will add when the freezes are ready.
Next the widow columns.
 
Best, 
 
G
 
 

 
 
 

Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.

Hello my dear collegues!
 
I have recently finished my Le Coureur. It's been a long way, but every journey has its end.
I can only say this building  was a real pleasure. 
Thanks to all those who walked with me in this journey. 
I'm posting these pictures, wich are the last i took last weekend. 
 
I hope you like them.  I decided to add a representation of the main frame, showing the climker planking on one side. And Capt. Rosily and his crew are already on board.
 
This project is completed! Hope to see you in my future builds! 
 
Thank you very much for your comments, they are always important to me. 

...

Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.

Terrific review, James. This is a very ambitious project. To me the greatest difficulty will be getting the external planking runs perfectly aligned and pre-beveled to exact specs. Notching the frames for the planking in a clinker style hull seems like a great solution to clinker planking providing that every notch is perfectly aligned. I’m curious to know if the planking at the bow and the stern has gains (tapers) to make them flush at the transom and stem rabbet.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.

Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.

Terrific review, James. This is a very ambitious project. To me the greatest difficulty will be getting the external planking runs perfectly aligned and pre-beveled to exact specs. Notching the frames for the planking in a clinker style hull seems like a great solution to clinker planking providing that every notch is perfectly aligned. I’m curious to know if the planking at the bow and the stern has gains (tapers) to make them flush at the transom and stem rabbet.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Good morning.

A little step:

 

 

 

 

Frames have all been cleaned up and aligned on the "jig".  Two buildheads (marked in red) are a little bit off at the top on one side.  I think I may fair lightly a bit to remove any bumps or dips while the frames are so densely packed and the bumps stand out.  But for now I'm going to put these aside, sit down and digest chapter one of the monograph and start at the beginning.
 
I must have a bit of an allergy to birch.  Even with a dust mask and sanding outdoors, super dry throat and coughing up a storm, so I'm going to take a few days away from this wood.
 

 

Well I am not sure if I should put  the photo's here or at the beginning and probably just do both. Just to give you some info on the plans Montagu was built at Chatham launch and copper in 1779.  Some of the plans show her Large repair in 1803 so figuring out how she was framed and planked when she was built.For some reason some of the photos turn them self's up side down and if one of the mod's can help me fix that I would be most thankful   Gary