Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
dvm27
-
Posts
2,420 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
dvm27 reacted to Jeronimo in THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
Hello friends.
Against my original plan, I'm building the model in scale 1:36 instead of
building it in scale 1:48.
This means change of plans.
Regards Karl
-
dvm27 reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Dragon 1760 by Siggi52 - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - English 74-Gun ship
Hello again,
and first, many thanks for your kind words about my work.
Today I started with the paneling of the side wall. And here I have a question for the experts or all who know something about this. The hanging knees from the poop deck.
Goodwin says: „Unlike other decks, only every other beam was supported with a knee on this deck, and these were placed where they would be most beneficial.“ Whatever that means?
From the NMM I got this picture of the Berwick from 1775
And here my ship. For these beams I would build the hanging knees. Counting from behind, under the second beam would be the aft screen, then the 4th, and 6th. At the 8th is the bulwark, but I could build here also one and then at the 9th and 11th beam. Otherwise on later ships, here are no cannons at the poop deck, so the knees support only the deck.
Many thanks in advance,
Siggi
-
dvm27 reacted to kurtvd19 in How would you improve your Byrnes tools?
Boyd:
The saw is perfect for cutting strips from sheets.
As to the tilting table it depends on how many bevel cuts you need to cut on the edge od a sheet or strip. Something that Jim told me after I mentioned that it was a bit awkward to use the tilting table was to add a wedge under the saw base to tilt the saw so that the tilting table is parallel to the table top. I tried it and that works great.
The tilt feature was great and got me through a commission and paid for itself in the time saved when I had to make a whole bunch of working 1/72 scale barge covers for a legal job.
Kurt
-
dvm27 reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello Carl,
thanks for the nice comment.
We continue the construction of the long-boat with the planking.
First, the profiled planks must be made. This is the first strake.
By heating with a soldering iron, the soaked planks can be brought into the required form.
-
dvm27 reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Dragon 1760 by Siggi52 - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - English 74-Gun ship
Hello,
it is done, the floorcloth is in! That was a whole weekend of concentrating drawing, redrawing and making new.
The for part of the quarter deck is also mainly ready.
Regards,
Siggi
-
dvm27 got a reaction from nobotch in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
-
dvm27 got a reaction from ranikola in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
-
dvm27 reacted to Maury S in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Maury S - 1:48 - POB
Slow progress. More planking. I'm not happy with my progress with edge bending, so I'm back to spiling...and getting better at it. After they are all in, I'll smooth them a bit (Particularly at the drop plank, which was thicker). Five more strakes in the upper band.
Maury
-
dvm27 got a reaction from GuntherMT in Fiebing's Leather Dye
The wales of this Echo class cross-sectional model are holly, blackened with Fiebings leather dye. Staining was done off the model. I used three coats, lightly sanded in between, added one coat of dilute sanding sealer and finished with a light buffing of 0000 steel wool. Treenails were added after gluing in place and touched up with more dye on a very fine paint brush. I wear disposable gloves and treat the dye like it is a potential disaster in the making...which it is if spilled or seeps into adjacent work.
-
dvm27 reacted to giampieroricci in L'Amarante 1749 by giampieroricci - FINISHED - 1:30 - French Corvette
These days I proceeded to finish outside of the model: I have given two coats of sealer and, after finely sanded, two coats of paint opaque transparent finish. All spray with airbrush.
-
dvm27 reacted to AON in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
I had some feed back on my layout... I chewed over the suggestions a bit and looked at some other plans and models. as recommended.
Of course most of what you want to see on models are covered up in the photos.
Images don't seem to ever show that one detail you want or when they do it disagrees with both what you did and what helpful people are suggesting.
In the end I made some changes to the pieces that comprise the bow assembly and the rising/dead wood and its connection forward and aft.
Thank you for the help.
EDIT NOTE: dwg removed and update posted 15 NOV 2015
-
dvm27 reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
The framework is completed for planking.
-
dvm27 got a reaction from mtaylor in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
-
dvm27 got a reaction from gjdale in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
-
dvm27 reacted to Alex M in HMS Sphynx 1775 by Alex M - Scale 1/48 - English 20-Gun Frigate
nearly completted...
Alex
-
dvm27 got a reaction from cristikc in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
-
dvm27 got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
-
dvm27 got a reaction from Canute in Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
Thank for the link to the beautiful model, Wayne. Certainly useful for anyone contemplating building one. I was trying to figure out the scale as it is so detailed.The size of the model works out to @ 13" x 10" x 10" so that explains the quality and level of detail.
-
dvm27 got a reaction from Canute in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
-
dvm27 got a reaction from Mahuna in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
-
dvm27 got a reaction from Geoff Matson in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
-
dvm27 reacted to Maury S in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
Greg makes it look so easy. He's a master!
Maury
-
dvm27 reacted to BobF in Rigging and masting, Swan IV revised and expanded
Ahoy mates,
Here is a review of Volume IV Revised, which I wrote for my club newsletter. It pretty much echos what has already been written. SeaWatch didn't have to print the supplement, but they did. Now we're able to keep our original editions up to date at a minimal expense. Here's a company that's looking out for its clients!
BobF
Swan Vol. IV Revised Edition.pdf
-
dvm27 got a reaction from Rustyj in Using taper jig on Byrnes table saw
Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
-
dvm27 reacted to pete48 in VOLVO 65 by pete48 - FINISHED - Scale 1/4" = 1' - Farr Yacht Design
Today, I started the day by laying out and fabricating the Com Tower . I started by making the Base, the Middle shelf ( wich will house the Inmarsat/Sailor 500 Fleet Broad Band ) and the top ( wich is for the GPS and tracking that sits atop ) I then cut and shaped the Metal tubing , wich makes up the side rails. , at this stage just the shelf's and rails have been glued. I then turned my attention to making the Sailor 500 Fleet Broad Band Dome ( it sits on the middle shelf ) , Next will be to get the parts ready for paint. Here are the results
Our Emblem ®
