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augie

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by augie

  1. Welcome back to the yard. Looking really good. Now we don't want to hear of anymore ship tossing
  2. Where were all you guys when I was there back in '79????? You could have helped out with the language barrier
  3. Can you give us an idea about your block tumbler? Oh, you need another doctor . You need a week at home to verify your 'normal' status !
  4. The 'roughing up' of the metal surface is the key no matter what kind of adhesive you use Robert. Sarah has the right idea.
  5. Robbyn - I 'pin' all my channels and pinracks with wire. I'm using 28 gauge on Syren. I first stand my piece on edge and drill small holes into it, maybe 1/16" deep +/- and set in the wire with CA so that it sticks out about 1/16" +/-. Then i press that piece very slightly where it's going to go to leave slight marks from the mounted wire. Then I drill those holes out, checking to make sure the piece fits exactly right. Then I glue it with CA. That little bit of wire makes a huge difference. You can also use the technique on fife rails. Darned, Andy beat me
  6. Great to hear you're up and around and back in the shipyard. No wonder your ship looks so good ----- you don't fool around. NICE!
  7. OK, I'll admit it......I wasn't around 500 years ago to see the real thing. That said, I think the curve of the transom actually complements that of the stern. If they didn't build them this way, they should have
  8. If you ever need to get rid of the shine from that CA 'superglue' try some Dullcoat flat lacquer. There are several brands out there. I use Model Master by Testors, available in most hobby shops. Comes in handy (trust me).
  9. Floyd didn't want to depress you by telling you that those 'long handles' are really long........like 25-30 feet. Not exactly like rowing your sweetheart around the local pond!
  10. Off to a great start Sjors. Those deadeyes can be finicky little bits but they get easier as you go along. Don't be like me and get impatient. You are just at the beginning of making her spectacular.
  11. Hang in there Popeye......you could always hit the high, hard one. Just watch out for slider!
  12. Nice work on that bowsprit, Ron. Short sleeves only from here on out and resist the urge to catch that pair of forceps you're going to drop. This is the one 'sport' where good reflexes work against you!
  13. I don't know, but 6 pages just to take a peek inside the box must be some kind of a record
  14. Hi Scott...and welcome aboard MSW. You'll get a lot of opinions on adhesives. Many here don't use CA and prefer PVA wood glues. I use both but I'll confine my comments to your CA question. IN GENERAL, the thicker the CA the longer it takes to set. Thin is the fastest but it can really get all over the place (including you). Medium is a little more versatile. Also, the thicker it is, the stronger the bond. The CA's are debonded with acetone ---keep that in mind if you glue your fingers together. None of them sand very well and you always run the risk of sanding away your wooden part and the offending CA is still there. They can also leave a 'shine' so have some 'Dullcoat' flat lacquer handy if you need to cover that. As if it doesn't set fast enough, they sell accelerator. This can actually be useful with the thicker grades. Some folks report they are allergic to the fumes so be careful if your working inside a confined space (like inside the hull) and you have your face right in it. If you try and use it on a painted part, it will grab the paint and not the part. Any force will take the paint and part off. What I do there is roughen the painted surface before I glue it. Or even poke tiny holes in it to allow the CA to penetrate. Hope this gives you some ideas.
  15. Yes, she's a big girl! But wait.......didn't I read somewhere that you only 'peeked' into the box? Looks like Sjors was right ---- you're doomed
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