ASAT
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Robert, your build is impressive, I can't believe the success you are having with your first build. Your carriages are outstanding, as good as I have seen on any build. Lots of great info on your techniques as well. I will continue to look in on your build and use your ideas as a reference for improving my ability's. Lou
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Mark, I will try that - the scissors does really curl the strip and you need to straighten it up. Do you bend the sheet or the strip that you scored? (if that makes sense). Thanks Floyd, yes I passed them through - the POB plans showed them as going through the jib boom and terminating at the hull with deadeyes. Next time I will try and simulate some sheaves in the jib boom though - would look better.... Robert, thanks for looking in and the affirmation, I will check out your Mars build as well....
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Richard, did you have to taper the bearding area and the stern post area or is the keel and sternpost wide enough to accept the planks? Like your decision not to use the patterns... Lou
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Very nice AJ - Really enjoyed your Freisland build as well. I know you mentioned RA getting the best of you and only building a couple more ships... would it be any easier if you built in a larger scale? Like some of the 1/24 and 1/36 cross sections over in scratch built forum? I hope you can continue for a long time.... Lou
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Thanks Bill, I can't wait to see your heart and soul revealed in your POB build, I know it's going to be great! Floyd, I set the rake at 9 degrees as indicated on Blackies foremast drawing.... I like it better than the massive 14-16 degree rake on POB. Get yours planked dude, it goes pretty quick from there.... Blackie and Krug are doing all the hard work for us.... Lou
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You bet, I forgot to add that your bulkheads look symmetrical but you can check them by tracing their outline and then fold the tracings on the centerlines. That would give you a reference to shim or trim depeding on the shape on the plans. I pretty much forego that step anymore as I usually do all of my shimming and trimmingduring the fairing process before planking, but it does reveal any gross disparity. Is the bearding line depicted on the plans? If not, just flow a nice curve where the rabbit and bulkheads start deviating at the last few bulkheads. The sternpost joining area is the critical dimension so you have enough clearance to run the planking fair into the sternpost. Lou
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HMS Druid by Krug - FINISHED - 1:48 - Hahn
ASAT replied to kruginmi's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Wow Mark, those blocks (v2) look real! Where do you get your ideas from? I need to start a file on all the great techniques here on MSW. I think your figurehead idea is spot on as well. Lou -
Elia, beautiful as usual, that yellow stripe has got to be tiny! I don't see it wavering in the pics..... Your metal work is just awesome - those details are what set you and Ron and a few others on here apart from us mere mortals... great to see you back at it! Lou
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Your planking looks great AJ, nibbing them looks great too but if you mess it up, you rip out the waterway and start over. Plus they are a pain to cut accurately..... Nice build!
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Bill, as to the bulkheads - get some basswood or equivalent ply at your local hobby store and make some new ones... much easier than fighting the wood. The Wenge does have some pretty large grain - I prefer walnut, bubinga, or many of the rosewoods depending on the color scheme I am trying to achieve for Keel, stem, top rail, etc. but in the end it's your ship so go for what you like... Lou
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Sherry, nice work.... maybe a nice golden oak stain and then some satin poly? Chuck P. has used that combo on basswood and it seems to give it a nice amberish hue as well as help to highlight (darken) the more recessed areas. Might give it some color as well as intensify the excellent carving work. Lou
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Thanks for those drawings, I will be using them as I progress, starting on the bowsprit now... Lou
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I have used it for planking on my Syren as it is a nice yellow color - I try not to use paint on my models when wood will suffice. It is a nice hard wood that stays straight after milling, sands and machines well and has very little noticeable grain so it is perfect for a lot of applications in ship modeling - framing, fittings, planking, masts and yards etc... I get mine form Macbeath Hardwoods but I have a store 40 miles from me in SLC - it is a reasonably priced wood for an imported exotic..... Lou
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