
ASAT
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I think its irrelevant that a piece of wood is milled to such close tolerances..... It's awesome that it is but really, when you start cutting that billet into planks or start tapering and beveling pre milled planks and then sand them after installation how close do you think your tolerances are then? Even on Chucks Cheerful build video he shows just using a blade and tapering and He even stated in the log that he sands as much as 1/16" of his planking so what real benefit is .002 or three thou doing you? I think it probably makes you feel better about paying upwards of $150 per board foot for wood (depending on type and size of billet) than have any real impact on the outcome of your model. Thats the biggest reason I invested in the tools to mill my own..... and I get to try out lots of different woods..... A lot cheaper.....
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So do you sand them as you install each strake or do you put a few on and then sand them together? i guess it really doesn't matter but It doesn't look like the planks you have already installed need any more sanding, or will you do a final sand after you have completed the planking? Or is it you don't post a picture until what you have done is looking pristine? Your "in work" models always look so awesome, I thought maybe I was doing something wrong..... Lou
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Dave, have you planked the entire hull in a day or just from the wales up? How about a pic of you planking? It's looking good, you are afast builder....
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- sovereign of the seas
- ship of the line
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Seriously lovely work there Tony, I think the #5 treenail color will complement the different woods - should be a bit subtle on both, but that is my preference......
- 255 replies
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- granado
- bomb ketch
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One other observation and question Chuck, I know from your builds that you use CA to fasten your planking - but your progress shots always look so pristine.... I also use CA but my hulls look like they are diseased with splotches, pencil lead and bits of my fingers glued to them until I sand them down - how do you keep your hulls so clean? Is there a certain applicator you use to control the glue? Or is it your technique? Lou
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Damn Chuck, that Cheerful hull looks like crap.... I think the only recourse is to start over.... :-)
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Aha!! I love it when I have those moments when the light comes on! And thanks for your paitience with my dimness.... See what I mean about your giftedness as a teacher? :-)
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So, what about the Winnie? Would you use this method on her also or spile? And what makes the determimation? Sorry for the distracting????
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So Chuck, did you use the bending technique on the entire hull or is it a combination of bending and spiling? Is one better/nicer than the other?
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I would imagine that the live aspect has huge challenges, but your awesome teaching style (as evidenced by your great practicums) is what will make the seriesa success. Even aset of videos showing some of your techniques would be a great value.
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Thanks Chuck, I really think that video is an awesome teaching medium. I dont know if it is just me but I get a lot from watching it being done, the Caustic gunboat series from Dave Stevens was a real eye opener for me as to the possibilites for video teaching. I wonder if there is a way to start an online builders clinic where you would join up on skype or be able to join in a live sessionw? Maybe on a Saturday so the time difference would not be such an impact? I would be willing to pay a subcription fee for some live "techniques from the masters" teaching series with Q&A availability. I really think it could be a huge factor in keeping our hobby alive and prospering.
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Looking great Scott, I am really liking tha myrtle, I am going to have to get some soon......
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What a great site! Resources, personal assistance and talent at your fingertips. Excellent group of people!!!
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Yep, and Dave (the lumberyard) also has a new gunboat kit that uses the same technique, not sure if it is advertised yet but there is a build over on MSB... Hey Chuck - a gunboat!! (hint :-)
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- patrick henry
- lauck street shipyard
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Looking great Grant, making me think I need to put the Yamato away for awhile and get back to my frames.... Lou
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- finished
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Alexey, this is arguably the best Vanguard build on MSW - such great attention to detail and meticulous workmanship. Of course I am a bit biased as I also like to use different woods instead of paint on my models - sometimes a very difficult task but well worth the effort. I really enjoy your work, very inspirational. Lou
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Looking great mobbs, I have been stressing out over those pre milled gun port and sweeps notches, I just know they are not going to line up. I almost wonder if it would be best to wait till the frames are in place and just frame them out and plank over both sides. At any rate I have stalled a bit on my build due to getting a 1/350 Yamato (plastic) for Christmas and been having fun with that.
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Looking great Jack, gotta love a well stocked workshop... Now the real fun starts.....
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I agree, could be Pau Marfim, also with the higher figure it looks like it could be a type of satinwood, maybe this? http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/movingui/ but I dont think that would be that much denser than the Yellowheart, If it is East Indian Satinwood that would account for the density and very tight grain and figure but that stuff is pretty rare and very $$$$$ - cool if it is that. In any case I use that database to ID and research a lot of woods, they also have a good article on satinwoods Lou
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I recently picked up some Anigre and Makore - the Anigre is a great substitute for Costello Box and the Makore will be a substitute for Pear - it is still a bit pricy, about $8 a BF but a lot less than the Box and Pear. I got it at our local Macbeath Hardwoods dealer and you can see some pics of the Anigre in my Granado cross section build log.... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8949-bomb-vessel-granado-1742-cross-section-138-scale-by-asat/
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