glbarlow

I almost literally planked 3 full sides of a hull on my Cheerful. You know the answer, rip it off and do it again.  In the long run you’ll be proud of your decision to do so. Trying to force it to work is probably more difficult than pulling back to do it over. Just a heads up, it likely isn’t the last time you’ll want to do something again. I sometimes feel like the first time is just practice. It’s not a race. 

How’s that for the feedback you requested😊🙄

Interesting, you started 9 months later than I did and have now past me by. You’ll be done in no time. 

I doubt you could give it away as is, not a particularly interesting model and not at all well made 

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

reasonable butt shift pattern, and more or less scale lengths. 

5 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

indeed actual planking lengths ?

Good call BE. The extra effort shows well, especially on a hull of this size but really on any hull. 

Take a break, your health comes first. NyQuil is our friend. 

The diagram really isn't the right approach to fairing a hull. Maybe on older models to get the rough shape but you can't take too much off.  The bulkheads need to be squared up and installed on the former then you sand the whole hull so a batten (long thin piece of work, like a skinny plank) fits smoothly on all the bulkhead front to back.  One way to manage is sanding with rougher grades of sandpaper on a sanding block then finish with 220 grit. You don't want to lose the shape of the proper hull so for a beginner leave the back edge of the char on bulkheads forward of midships and the front edge on bulkheads from there to the stern.  You'll have to further shape the bow and the stern, but that's entirely model dependent though the batten approach still applies. No way though do you want to carve off a bunch of any bulkhead with a blade before its on the former. There are a ton of build logs on this site that demonstrate fairing, check them out.

Congrats on the successful octagonal work. I had other planes and never could do much with them, the Ibex finger plane is a work of art and make shaping mast and yards so much more a pleasant task. it was harder to draw the 7-10-7 reference marks than it was doing the actual cutting, something I'm sure you experienced as well.

For what it's worth, the sweeps would only be open if in use and an actual sweep (oar) in them.  My approach was to make all those little dudes and simply pin them on, requiring only a small drill bit to make the hole and mark the location, a touch of glue and they are there for life. My captain is opposed to rowing so he was fine with this approach.  Granado is one of my earliest models and occupies a fond place in my memories, a lot of water past the bow since then.  Yours is looking great.

On 4/14/2023 at 11:50 AM, Blue Ensign said:

three weeks

Winchelsea took me six months, planking is fun stuff

Your first planking is looking great, nice start!

5 hours ago, druxey said:

guess that scratch building is sooo yesterday

I’m building a high level model that takes a decent level of skill to complete from a design and parts I could never achieve otherwise. These port hinges for example, I could make 20 from a strip of brass, I made one today just to prove to myself I could. But I’d be disappointed taking a week (in my case) because I’d do them over and over to get 20 that looked nearly alike, cause that’s what I do.  I’d much rather spend my time on more fun things, like head rails, capstans, chain pumps, pedestals, and ship’s stoves than fabricating 1/16th metal strips. (I did ‘scratch’ all the metal on Cheerful, not that I enjoyed that part).
 

I of course admire those that can scratch build, such amazing work here on MSW. However Chuck has brought modeling to a level us mortals can achieve amazing high results, if we put the work in and don’t just slap it together.  It still takes major effort, so scratch building or not I’m pretty happy about consistent believable port hinges from magic metal looking material. Now I’m going to go fabricate a bunch of split rings and eyebolts from some wire. 

5 hours ago, Gregory said:

quarterdeck bulkhead

Beckman is exceptional, he made those out of ivory from old piano keys. Before you get overwhelmed ther are simpler ways to do bulkheads. I scratch built the one for my Pegasus, it doesn’t have to be that hard. 

While I frequently use a standard dust mask, a respirator for the work we do in modeling seems a little over the top. 

The raised bulkheads sound exciting, though too late for me, and having been one that has broken a scroll work or two I can see the advantage. The challenge might how it matches up to the surrounding molding and not having seen it how it looks matched up to wood in general.  I’d like to see it as the head rails someday, is that a place where this material vs. wood wouldn’t be an issue? (I can be your beta tester😊).

Yes, the scroll work and stern decorations are certainly a game changer as are many other Winchelsea innovations. I get to see that every day. Can you make black port hinges with it, or pedestals- those things there are multiple of and challenging to made consistent copies.😊

What, no char!  What’s the world coming to.  Those are some nice looking windows. 

Sounds like a good solution. Just won’t make that big a difference in the grand scheme. 

It’s a tough question about being symmetrical or going for an improved look, one not easy to answer. On display only one side shows obviously but we as the builder know there is a difference. I’d recommend trying “bending the wrong way” method, once you learn it you’ll love the result. That’s second part of the process, the first are the tick strips, making it easier to understand where to start the taper and how much to cut from the plank for the taper and you’ll not need stealers. It takes longer, but it looks so much better. Perhaps blending the two methods so your other side is an improvement but still somewhat mirrors the first side. Also good call on the CA and how you applied it. I use CA medium for planking, edge gluing is never needed. You could even just spot glue about the distance between bulkheads and still be fine.
 

One other suggestion is to consider a butt shift pattern, doesn’t matter how long or how spaced they are, just a consistent repeating pattern on where horizontal planks meet on your run bow to stern. 
 

That said, your planking is well done, boxwood is such a nice wood. Once sanded and finish applied you’ll have a very fine looking model.  I’ll enjoy watching your progress on this excellent Vanguard model.  

Looking good Glenn, and I mean UK Glenn, not me😂 

3 minutes ago, Steve20 said:

dimensions are always exact

It looks from here as though you’re right on track. With your attention to detail I’m sure it will be absolutely fine.  

Wow, those columns are absolutely gorgeous.  If you want to make another set, send them my way😳😂

That is really excellent work, just one would be impressive, having so many absolutely identical is really amazing.  

I wasn’t all that sure about the paper friezes at first. After spraying them with fixative and now having applied them all with the recommended stick glue I’m happy with how they turned out. Short of hand painting, way beyond my skills, I think it’s the best answer.

Yours, like your amazing planking, look absolutely great.

Very interesting and precise approach to building your own. You’re on the right path, it is critical to get the stern framing accurate. It will pay dividends later, well done!

On 4/9/2023 at 1:42 AM, Kevin said:

how a kit should go together

Thanks Kevin, Chuck makes that part a lot easier with his design. 
 

On 4/9/2023 at 4:13 AM, JpR62 said:

Always so precise and perfect! And full of good advice.

Thank you Jean Paul for saying so, I do try to share what I’ve learned, not sure how good it is but I try. 
 

On 4/9/2023 at 8:18 AM, scrubbyj427 said:

must have been a tool and dye maker in a previous life,

Thanks for the kind words. My great grandfather was a stone cutter. He built a stone wall along a Kentucky highway famous for its many horse farms. The wall was built without any mortar, just the fit of the rocks. It still stands today and a historical landmark, they wouldn’t move it when they widened the road. Despite state sponsored effort no one knows how to duplicate it. So maybe I inherited some small part of that skill. 
 

On 4/9/2023 at 9:34 AM, James G said:

helping all of us

Thanks Jim, I appreciate the comment and glad I can help as I’ve been helped. 
 

19 hours ago, westwood said:

starting to shape all those eyelet and ring bolts

Thank you Dusan. I just go into to a zone, cut, bend, shape, cut, bend, shape….so fun.  I still have so many to go.  It’s worth it though, helps bring life and realism to our models. 

On 3/19/2023 at 4:00 PM, reilly said:

Would this cutter carry a 16ft or 18ft cutter on deck

I seriously doubt it would carry a cutter at all, way too big, maybe a jolly boat towed behind. These were fast ships that mostly worked in local waters, a ships boat wasn’t essential would think. As you can see from the deck there is not really a place to easily store one. 

Simply outstanding!  You are more than ready for a return to Winnie. It’s a huge investment, if you’d feel better starting over you should, if you can move forward from where you are you should do that. At any rate we await your return. I was glad I did Cheerful first, so much I learned there I’ve applied and built on now. I’m sure you have that same confidence!

I agree for what it’s worth, cut a new piece at the first seam, minimize filler. 

As JJ notes it must be flush on both sides for the sheaves to be mounted