glbarlow

Wonderful work Fred, definitely a result to be proud of. Very well done, fine craftsmanship in the details that separate Cheerful from other models. You’ve done a great job.

While I’d like to see you back at Winchelsea and if you decide Speedwell is too much as a full scratch consider Vanguard models like Sphinx or Indy for fully rigged opportunities. I think Chuck’s intends to rig his Speedwell, but I imagine that’s a ways down the road. 
 

At any rate I look forward to following you next project. 

Once or twice I’ve left the tightening wrench’s on the Chuck. I’d advise against doing that.

Excellent research. Did you look at the plans? They might show the pattern and provide for longer runs, or at least show the pattern visually. 

I didn’t know Vanguard had ¼ scale carriages, I thought his were all 1/64. 

42 minutes ago, Gregory said:

know a good reason for doing all the hull planking first,

The hull is handled a lot and also easiest to plank with the hull upside down. It’s done to preclude damage to anything on the deck. You can plank with an easier mind when there is nothing on top to worry about. 
 

Besides planking is fun. 😊

I’m surprised you’re continuing with that single joint down the center, even painted that’s going to stand out. Even if you shifted each row by two bulkheads left and right of center making a shift pattern of three it would result in a better look. The tapering at at the bow looks great. 

Of course it has to have RED. I love that color on my models, accurate or not. 
 

I was wary of the printed paper friezes, now having used them on Winchelsea I think them amazing. So much better than painted brass PE. 
 

My vote is without the tassels, allowing the blue, also a great ship color, to stand out.

8 hours ago, rlwhitt said:

doing it both ways at different times.  Is it ship dependent or something?

It isn’t a ‘both ways’ situation. It’s two parts of one process. First the lining, then taper, then edge bending. Check my Cheerful and Winchelsea or a number of other Winchelsea logs including Chuck’s on how it all ties together. I believe the videos also explain this. 

We should move any further discussion off BE’s build log. This is his space.

15 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Chuck Passaro’s article as below, and an excellent guide how to use it.

Lining Off your hull for planking (thenrg.org)

Scroll down to the Framing and planking section, there is a wealth of advice to be had.

This is the best way to go, not the easiest or the fastest, but the best. 

That looks really amazing Rusty - so much detail, so many curves. You could start over and build a second one 😄

2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

how do you properly start the cut midway into the piece?

With a good planer like the Ibex finger plane you just lightly start it were you want it then push forward. The plane will start shallow then cut to the blade depth. Sort of like starting a cheese slicer in the middle of the block of cheese. 
 

Hard to describe as it’s a feel thing, practice on some scrap and you’ll have in no time with your skills. 

2 hours ago, acaron41120 said:

cut it down do the correct size for the top of the mast and from there insert it in my drill and use the drill like a lathe and sand it round using my sanding stick?

As Druxey notes it’s best to apply the 7-10-7 ratio to first shave it to an approximate octagon then round it from there. It’s not nearly as hard as it sounds. This keeps everything in the proper proportion. Plenty of posts in this method. In describe some in my Cheerful log regarding the bowsprit. That was my first time too. 

1 hour ago, rlwhitt said:

start with a square and round what's below will be a little difficult if the round section is bigger.

The round part wouldn’t be bigger at the top of the mast. Using square stock and the 7-10-7 ratio to do the rounding is a common method used by many. 

Work the other direction, start with square stock and round it below. An Ibex finger plane is a great tool and another option 

The last step of my process for my Cheerful coils was basically to crush them with my fingers, a little squeeze, a little bend. They ended up looking pretty natural. Not sure how that would work with TiteBond, might be worth a try. 

You’ll be happy with that decision….once the pain goes away. 😁

I almost literally planked 3 full sides of a hull on my Cheerful. You know the answer, rip it off and do it again.  In the long run you’ll be proud of your decision to do so. Trying to force it to work is probably more difficult than pulling back to do it over. Just a heads up, it likely isn’t the last time you’ll want to do something again. I sometimes feel like the first time is just practice. It’s not a race. 

How’s that for the feedback you requested😊🙄

Interesting, you started 9 months later than I did and have now past me by. You’ll be done in no time. 

I doubt you could give it away as is, not a particularly interesting model and not at all well made 

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

reasonable butt shift pattern, and more or less scale lengths. 

5 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

indeed actual planking lengths ?

Good call BE. The extra effort shows well, especially on a hull of this size but really on any hull. 

Take a break, your health comes first. NyQuil is our friend. 

The diagram really isn't the right approach to fairing a hull. Maybe on older models to get the rough shape but you can't take too much off.  The bulkheads need to be squared up and installed on the former then you sand the whole hull so a batten (long thin piece of work, like a skinny plank) fits smoothly on all the bulkhead front to back.  One way to manage is sanding with rougher grades of sandpaper on a sanding block then finish with 220 grit. You don't want to lose the shape of the proper hull so for a beginner leave the back edge of the char on bulkheads forward of midships and the front edge on bulkheads from there to the stern.  You'll have to further shape the bow and the stern, but that's entirely model dependent though the batten approach still applies. No way though do you want to carve off a bunch of any bulkhead with a blade before its on the former. There are a ton of build logs on this site that demonstrate fairing, check them out.

Congrats on the successful octagonal work. I had other planes and never could do much with them, the Ibex finger plane is a work of art and make shaping mast and yards so much more a pleasant task. it was harder to draw the 7-10-7 reference marks than it was doing the actual cutting, something I'm sure you experienced as well.

For what it's worth, the sweeps would only be open if in use and an actual sweep (oar) in them.  My approach was to make all those little dudes and simply pin them on, requiring only a small drill bit to make the hole and mark the location, a touch of glue and they are there for life. My captain is opposed to rowing so he was fine with this approach.  Granado is one of my earliest models and occupies a fond place in my memories, a lot of water past the bow since then.  Yours is looking great.

On 4/14/2023 at 11:50 AM, Blue Ensign said:

three weeks

Winchelsea took me six months, planking is fun stuff

Your first planking is looking great, nice start!

5 hours ago, druxey said:

guess that scratch building is sooo yesterday

I’m building a high level model that takes a decent level of skill to complete from a design and parts I could never achieve otherwise. These port hinges for example, I could make 20 from a strip of brass, I made one today just to prove to myself I could. But I’d be disappointed taking a week (in my case) because I’d do them over and over to get 20 that looked nearly alike, cause that’s what I do.  I’d much rather spend my time on more fun things, like head rails, capstans, chain pumps, pedestals, and ship’s stoves than fabricating 1/16th metal strips. (I did ‘scratch’ all the metal on Cheerful, not that I enjoyed that part).
 

I of course admire those that can scratch build, such amazing work here on MSW. However Chuck has brought modeling to a level us mortals can achieve amazing high results, if we put the work in and don’t just slap it together.  It still takes major effort, so scratch building or not I’m pretty happy about consistent believable port hinges from magic metal looking material. Now I’m going to go fabricate a bunch of split rings and eyebolts from some wire.