glbarlow

So there is such a place, a world of completed planking…🤣😂

Thank you for saying so!

I’d imagine hundreds of photos that don’t have a high call rate would become a storage problem for the servers, is there heavy enough demand to warrant the storage space, do moderators want the workload and accountability for copyright monitoring. I know I wouldn’t be a user for something I would more likely Google.

If you're going cheap seems like the Amati/Caldercraft kit rope isn't going be improved by these alternatives - just use the kit stuff. I used it on my first models, I applied bees wax (not needed on Syren rope of course) to address the fuzz, those models are still holding up fine, especially since I no longer post close up photos of them.

Such clean, crisp work - a reference for all to follow. Real Knights don’t need no plume

CA is fine used properly for some rigging, just not on rat lines. I’m really not sore why a horse hoof would be detached from a horse, let alone why you’d put it on a stove.

Watered PVA or clear acrylic-

You’d really be better off building one Chris’ kits next not only for the better design and material but the light years better instructions and plans that come with them. I had both versions of Rattlesnake, after holding them for years I ended up throwing them away without even starting them.

Rattlesnake is, like LN, a pretty old kit design. You might encounter more issues than just blocks and ropes, but you should definitely replace both.

New post captain is thrilled when told he will captain the frigate Sphinx, sees the frigate Indefatigable and then 😳😩

Personally I’m glad of this, better look in my opinion.

I’d just mill my own planks or use the planks provided for the deck and wouldn’t want a laser etched deck for a model of this size and quality so having the laser etched deck as an option is a good approach.

Those pumps could use a spout like I added on Flirt. Nice to see you back at it.

I totally agree.

He always does for these builds, it morphs into the instruction manual later

Excellent work , it’s looking really nice!

Thank you, I’m looking forward to moving beyond planking.

It does sling some dust. I attach a vacuum to the port on top when I run it (and the saw), that reduces the dust to almost nothing.

Thank you. I am happy with how it’s going, but can’t help seeing every flaw, no matter how small. Into my third month planking I’m kinda ready to be done though. So you check one of those hard shell golf club carriers empty and bring it back full, no one will notice a thing🤣

Thank you for saying so. Thank you, it really is a great wood for modeling.

Thanks Chuck, Yep, my Cheerful looks completely different, and better, than when I finished it.

There is no saw but the Byrnes saw - it is indispensable for me (plus the tall fence, mitre fence and especially the cross cut table as accessories). It also would take me much more time to plank with much less accurate results without the Byrnes Disc Sander. Like Derek, I really love the Proxxon Micro Mill for doing stuff I couldn't otherwise do. Rounding it out, I didn't know how much I'd like having the Byrnes Thickness Sander until I got one, I intentionally mill planks a tad thick and then even them all to a consisted thickness, really helps with planking. I enjoy having the relatively inexpensive Proxxon lathe, it's useful but for me so far limited to masts and spars, I'm sure there's more I could do with it someday. Like Derek, I can find a way to buy a new tool in any given moment.

Well done! I know it was a small size change, but it looks a lot better as it sits now. I'm still not sure how I'll feel drilling through that carving - but fortunately its a really long time for me before it's an issue. The real question "is the candle real?" 😄

AND Planking Continues … I started planking in early March, and I’m still and it and I’m still not done and I still have more planking to do and I’m having so much fun... I’ve now completed 16 strakes both starboard and port - with 8 more to go on each side. It seems like these, plus my travel iron and craft hot air gun are the only tools I’ve touched in months, probably because they are. I do spend a lot of time with my Byrnes collection of saw, disc sander, and thickness sander so there’s that. I’ve always been comfortable tapering planks with a metal ruler and a sharp object, with the longer planks required for Winchelsea I added a separate cutting mat along with double sided tape. I put a strip of the tape on the mat and stick the plank to the tape - it doesn’t move while I’m sliding the blade along the tick marks I’ve transferred from the ship. I have the problem of being somewhat of a perfectionist and not being very good at my job - the result is a lot of wasted wood from rejected planks and excess. I was feeling bad about this until my wife walked in the shop, looked at the pile and said “We’ll have some great summer projects for the grandkids using these.” I looked up and said “Of course, that was my plan all along.” We’re going to Alaska on a cruise this fall, I plan to find an Alaskan Yellow Cedar tree and apologize for how much of his brethren I’ve wasted. The port side bow has turned out ok so far, it’s nice because it’s more or less measure, cut, fit. It’s still 'every plank’s a project' with the bending, fitting, edge softening, and gluing - each plank can take up to an hour or so to make. Then of course there are the repeats when that doesn’t work … grandkid projects I now call them. Remarkably both sides look more or less the same in this view I’ll likely never see or notice once the ship gets turned right side up, but still. There was so much excitement at reaching this stage a guy with a mandolin came by to play a few tunes. I’m not as concerned with the variances in the wood color, for one thing there are different number of coats of WOP, the port side has only one. The AYC soaks up the first coat like a towel. There will be more light sanding and more coats of WOP before I call it done. Plus, as I see my Cheerful on its shelf everyday I know somehow this nice wood just evens itself out over time. I probably should have milled all the planks at once, thrown them in a pile and used whatever came out first, rather than try matching as I’ve done, and not done well. In fairness it changes a lot with that first coat of WOP. Then there’s the stern - Planks at the bow make take an hour or two, midship less, but these stern planks starting at the turn to the stern post wore me out. I really struggled with the stern on multiple levels. One plank might take me a day to get right. I’m fortunate these aren’t very heavy, so they didn’t do much damage when I flung the rejects against the wall. In another macro view I won’t often see it’s somewhat a miracle both sides are near equal. At least unlike the starboard side and the multiple rip and replace I didn’t have to repeat that for thr port side, so I must have learned something along the way. It is nice to know the counter will be covered by a frieze and a moulding strip eventually covers the seam. I’m still not that happy with the stern, but I got there - it is in fact a stern. Even with wider planks and knowing I’m on the tick marks it looks like a lot of ground to cover at the stern post with just eight more strakes to go. I’ll make it work, that’s what wider planks are for. More and more it looks like an actual ship. With that it’s time to reverse course and start down from the keel, so next up are garboard strakes. By my estimation (and no I’m not going to count them) with 32 strakes done below the wales and about 3.25 planks to a strake (depending on the butt pattern) I’ve added over a hundred planks and have about half that still to go…but who’s counting. Of course that’s not counting rejects, I mean grandkid summer project material. I’m just taking it slow, admiring build logs of those who have a deck, and working it a day at a time. Thank you for the follows, likes and comments - it really helps keep me going - one plank at a time, then another plank, then another plank……

Buy it pre-made.