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Everything posted by glbarlow
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A fun little project, it looks great.
- 642 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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😊Not what I was referencing, I’m glad it helps you. Btw, it’s a poor substitute for lining the hull to really get it right but it works.
- 362 replies
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- Amati
- Lady Nelson
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I’ll skip providing any further comments, enjoy your build.
- 362 replies
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- Amati
- Lady Nelson
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Common problem from not overlapping the next plank to the one above it and starting the taper where they naturally cross. You’ve started all the tapers for the bow too far back. Another reason for the importance of lining the hull. It gets better with practice.
- 362 replies
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- Amati
- Lady Nelson
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Thanks Bob, it’s definitely nice to have those templates now.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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It’s a process. Still working on cutting out ports to complete planking above the wales. I finished the port side bow and needed a change of pace after fitting 20 ports (8 more to go) so I decided to do some preliminary fairing on the starboard interior. I’ve added 1/8 balsa between the frames to act as spacer, that plus the planking gets me close to the 3/16 required. I’m not done still more to do, but its close. It’s a little heart stopping to grind this out with a very light touch of the Dremel. It is made a little easier, still requiring deep slow breaths, by my new addition of a Proxxon pen sander for a lighter touch, then by hand and with chisels to clean up when I get close. I have it close enough now to go back later and polish up what I’ve done and complete the starboard interior. Really I just wanted to establish a little confidence I could pull it off and not have a port sill fly off the ship. Cheerful now seems like a piece of cake comparatively. Good news, with both sides of the bow now planked above the wales I’ve confirmed via the Chapter 9 template they meet the required shape for when, in the far distant future, I get to Chapter 9. Back to the port side planking now.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Don't have to hope for the best. Leave the aft edge on those forward of the waist and fore edge on those aft of the waist (so as not to overdue it and lose the shape and to keep both sides even) while taking the edges off the couple of center bulkheads so its smooth all the way. The batten needs to contact at least 90% of the bulkhead but if done well it will contact 100% of every bulkhead front to back. The stern takes a little more attention to follow the flow to the counter, it isn't especially hard on Flirt as my log will show. Slide the very thin batten up and down covering at least 4-5 bulkheads at a time, up and down back and forth - it will be right. Then it's just tapering and edge bending the first planking and you're home.
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Red Ochre Paint
glbarlow replied to starlight's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Admiralty Paints Red Ochre is the best there is. Get it from Cornwall boats, excellent service whatever country your in. -
I don’t know, that shocking orange color of the Sphinx could be the way to go 🤣😂
- 855 replies
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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It really looks great, so meticulous.
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You are certainly doing a lot of nice custom work on this model, all exacting and well done!
- 419 replies
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- Victory Models
- Pegasus
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You should fare the bulkheads so there is a smooth run of a test plank fore to stern before adding the gunport strips, the probably would fit better. You definitely need to fare them before starting planking. The deck needs to be pushed / weighed down and glued to the bottom of the bulkheads side to side forming a slightly bowed deck before the gunport parts are added. Hang in there, solving problems is have to fun, for me creating often seems to be the other half.
- 65 replies
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- Ballahoo
- Caldercraft
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I think what we did with part 21 is perfectly logical 😊 As you probably discovered the bulkheads have a little notch at their base. The way to get the deck to fit is to get one side to fit under the notches then work it down the other side to fit into those notches. It is not a simple task for sure and I don’t recall if the notches are mentioned in the instructions. The notches are a great idea for holding the deck, not fun to get it there. The stern frames are indeed fragile little things. Solving problems and fixing mistakes is all part of the fun, you did it and you’re moving forward, congratulations!
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Thank you, this helps. I was thinking I may have missed a .pdf, it was laid out on the plans for Cheerful.
- 1,784 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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For us only dreaming about getting to this point….did I miss it somewhere, how do I determine the planking butt shift pattern below the wales? …I know, so long ago for many of you😏
- 1,784 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Very glad to see you at this. We’ll be here to provide help by several of us giving you opposing answers to the same question and opposite points of view designed to get you throughly confused. Fortunately Vanguards instructions are so thorough and detailed you have the reference you need. Heres my first bit. I was too soon in adding the stem. I built Flirt after Cheerful and as an interlude to Winchelsea and I rushed it. It is a bit fragile (compared to the other two, by a lot) and I broke it, more than once. So your plan to take your time is the best advice you can have. Of course I repaired it easily enough and after painting with no visible evidence, but didn’t have to add it when I did (and if I’d just followed the instructions, duh).
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