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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. glbarlow
    See post #626 in my Cheerful log, substitute the block for the thimble. Personally I’d never use wire for any rigging.
  2. glbarlow
    Very well done Paul! Congratulations on completing this great model, I know it was much more challenging than it might seem having built my own. Excellent photography as well. I recommend you use those to set up a gallery here on the forum. Beautifully done!
  3. glbarlow
    Rat lines 😊 Hopefully the lines aren’t fixed yet so you can loose them in order to get inside for the boom and gaff as well as those missing cleats. Remember I mentioned bottom up, middle out. Bees wax can help with furry lines. Interesting comment about MS rope, I haven’t seen ROS’s product but there is no comparison to what Chuck provides, it’s worth its cost. You’re doing fine for a first model, hang in there. It will all pay off on your next one.
  4. glbarlow
    At this point I’ve planked at least two Cheerful’s yet only about a third done with Winnie. Planks and planks and … planks. At some point I should clean up my ship room.
  5. glbarlow
    Are you following the rigging plan for blocks and rope sizes or a different one?
  6. glbarlow
    Good explanation Chuck, thanks. I don’t buy from any company over charging for shipping, $16.95 is clearly a rip off. There is a small hobby store in Florida that has a minimum $15.95 shipping, I can get the same item from another small company in California for $5.95, it pays to shop around. I have found in many cases, though probably not for proprietary mini-nails, I can find the same or similar product on Amazon. Aside from the bulk power of Amazon, companies offering “free shipping” have it built into the price, nothing is ever free. The best I can do is buy multiple items from companies charging a reasonable shipping fee to get the most from my shipping dollar.
  7. glbarlow
    After setting the mast usually the shrouds first, then the bowsprit, then standing (black), finally running (tan). Work bottom up and middle out following the rigging plan for rope and block sizes and where things run. Other than the shrouds don’t permanently fix lines until you have them all run then go back and adjust as needed. Lines should be taunt not tight. The LN model has very simple rigging, I used Peterson’s Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft book and even my similar Cheerful’s plans to add more to mine. Many of the frequently cited references don’t apply to cutters, this particular book does. It has lots of nice easy to follow diagrams. Just be logical about what you can get to now and or won’t be able to fit fingers or tools later. There’s no magic, just a line at a time. Of course the many LN build logs are there as ready reference.
  8. glbarlow
    Actually you should mount it before starting rigging. Those out of scale fat belaying pins will make it harder to rig. Check out Crafty Sailor for a much better option.
  9. glbarlow
    Is there a place or more definition of how to print, and match the pattern, (not to mention gluing wrinkle free) of the frieze on tissue paper? I don’t get how to run that through my printer. Will the properly sized boxwood strip for the ladders be supplied in the parts package? And maybe a nice photo of your scrapper pattern? I figured I should ask my questions now even though I’m still planking the hull. By the time I get to this point most of you will be on Chuck’s next project.
  10. glbarlow
    Because we’re building a model and the aesthetics of a rigged gun look nice. Plus rigging guns is something we all need to endure to improve our perseverance and tenacity. That said, and having rigged the guns on all of my previous models and my tenacity fully tested I won’t be using a single strand of rope on my Winchelsea. I figure a model with 32 guns is a good time to go ‘contemporary.’
  11. glbarlow
    That’s a really nice job of rigging so many guns, well done! The natural cherry is a nice touch.
  12. glbarlow
    Nice! Since we're sharing - here's one from the Quiver Forest in Namibia - MSW downgrades image quality - this photo is much sharper than what's shown as I'm sure your's are. No more off topic I promise...maybe...
  13. glbarlow
    Where have you been dude?
  14. glbarlow
    Having cut the moulding on Cheerful for steps I’d just as soon not to do it again if it’s an option. Since no one is climbing them I’d rather go for aesthetics. Also can’t imagine a neat way to have the frieze applied to a step other than I guess a little hand painting.
  15. glbarlow
    Your build is looking great! I might suggest you consider a matte or even satin finish, the high gloss of the liquid wax might be a bit much on a model as large as Winchelsea. Just a thought.
  16. glbarlow
    Sorry the jig wasn’t working for you, perhaps a difference in our rope provider’s material or construction. At least the acrylic was a helpful hint.
  17. glbarlow
    Happily indicating my maritime ignorance, where was the ship “cut down” to make it a razee, just a gun deck or was there something above the now q deck, poop deck as well?
  18. glbarlow
    Very nice work on the deck, not easy to get it looking so neatly done!
  19. glbarlow
    Excellent work, your build is very well done. Wunderbar!
  20. glbarlow
    The turn back loop is a nice touch and a good look. Clear acrylic verses diluted PVA helped me shape the coils
  21. glbarlow
    Brings back nice memories and it looks great.
  22. glbarlow
    There are no words. Your work is amazing, working cabinet drawers and door that are then covered by a deck….. Really outstanding!
  23. glbarlow
    I wonder sometimes if I just like ripping off planks only to do them again,I do it often enough. Your revisited deck was definitely worth the extra work.
  24. glbarlow
    Glad to see you’re still on it Mark. That unofficial Marine motto should also be the modeler’s creed and one I use often: Improvise, adapt, overcome! There is no quit…
  25. glbarlow
    A full normal thickness planking isn’t best for checking fairing, it can’t make proper contact until it’s properly. I use a long 1/64 batten of a soft flexible wood and slide it about, up and down 3-5 bulkheads at a time. The curves is why I use a thin batten.

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