glbarlow
-
Posts
4,000 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by glbarlow
-
Red Ochre Paint
glbarlow replied to starlight's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Admiralty Paints Red Ochre is the best there is. Get it from Cornwall boats, excellent service whatever country your in. -
More or less yes, it’s tapering thinning the deadwood area so it’s 2mm at the end where the stern post attaches, not the whole deadwood. Just a variation what James describes in a he instructions. I think he went thinner and I wasn’t comfortable with that.
-
I don’t know, that shocking orange color of the Sphinx could be the way to go 🤣😂
- 855 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
It really looks great, so meticulous.
- 607 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
You are certainly doing a lot of nice custom work on this model, all exacting and well done!
- 419 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- Victory Models
- Pegasus
- (and 2 more)
-
You’re not alone in this, I sorted it out but not without challenge.
-
You should fare the bulkheads so there is a smooth run of a test plank fore to stern before adding the gunport strips, the probably would fit better. You definitely need to fare them before starting planking. The deck needs to be pushed / weighed down and glued to the bottom of the bulkheads side to side forming a slightly bowed deck before the gunport parts are added. Hang in there, solving problems is have to fun, for me creating often seems to be the other half.
- 65 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Ballahoo
- Caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
I think what we did with part 21 is perfectly logical 😊 As you probably discovered the bulkheads have a little notch at their base. The way to get the deck to fit is to get one side to fit under the notches then work it down the other side to fit into those notches. It is not a simple task for sure and I don’t recall if the notches are mentioned in the instructions. The notches are a great idea for holding the deck, not fun to get it there. The stern frames are indeed fragile little things. Solving problems and fixing mistakes is all part of the fun, you did it and you’re moving forward, congratulations!
-
Thank you, this helps. I was thinking I may have missed a .pdf, it was laid out on the plans for Cheerful.
- 1,784 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
For us only dreaming about getting to this point….did I miss it somewhere, how do I determine the planking butt shift pattern below the wales? …I know, so long ago for many of you😏
- 1,784 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Nice work, you’re doing a fine job with this model. Nice to see a Sphinx being built well.
-
Very glad to see you at this. We’ll be here to provide help by several of us giving you opposing answers to the same question and opposite points of view designed to get you throughly confused. Fortunately Vanguards instructions are so thorough and detailed you have the reference you need. Heres my first bit. I was too soon in adding the stem. I built Flirt after Cheerful and as an interlude to Winchelsea and I rushed it. It is a bit fragile (compared to the other two, by a lot) and I broke it, more than once. So your plan to take your time is the best advice you can have. Of course I repaired it easily enough and after painting with no visible evidence, but didn’t have to add it when I did (and if I’d just followed the instructions, duh).
-
Where’s your build log, I want to follow
-
My Process for Planking
glbarlow replied to glbarlow's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The original post was 9 years ago, while this process did and will work I now plank using a completely different method, following Chuck Passaro’s lining the hull and plank bending strictly with heat. I also no longer have the need for stealers, a by-product of my current process. -
I used Cadium Red on Cheerful, it looks great. There is no best color other than the one you like. Personally I like RED.
-
I think you have to go with what you’re comfortable with and in fact they may have been distorted by the photo as 3 mm blocks are fine and 2.5 mm blocks would be extremely difficult to work with, at least they are for me. I’d think the doubles would be for the larger guns, but again if you like the doubles go for it, not that big a deal either way. I don’t think I did the returns, but the plans should show you he location of the ring bolts. The thing with advice on this forum is you don’t have to take it and it’s likely someone will offer the exact opposite opinion anyway. It’s your model and your fun
-
Just to confirm, for reasons known only to Apple an iPhone or iPad phot will upload and post based on the orientation when it was taken whether it’s flipped in editing or not.
- 105 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
It all looks good to me. What could have been done different at the beginning?
-
I’d recommend taking a look at Delf’s Speedy build log for an excellent tutorial on rigging cannon, his are much smaller and he did a beautiful job of it. I’ve always used two single blocks by the way. The Caldercraft Granado was one of my early builds, I remember it well. These bomb vessels are pretty cool. I’m not trying to be critical, only offering suggestions. Hope it doesn’t come across any other way.
-
You should plank the deck before adding the bulwarks. Now you’ll need to add a waterway to cover the cracks between the decks and bulwarks, my log shows one It isn’t unusual to have to sand down the top row of bulwark planking some in. A model like LN
- 362 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Amati
- Lady Nelson
- (and 2 more)
-
Hope it resolves soon, a shame you can’t be seen before April. I can get you into a Texas eye doctor next week.
- 505 replies
-
- 8
-
-
- vanguard models
- Sphinx
- (and 1 more)
-
Is fit the breaching rope before the gun tackle. The return tackle (back side) has to be considerably longer. It was used to pull the gun clear of the port for reloading. The plans should show ringbolts near the center of the deck. Frankly I never include these, it’s cluttered enough already. If you only do one thing make it the breaching rope. it’s up to you but your blocks are way out of scale, 2-3mm are the largest for guns. It’s all fun, just keep saying that.
-
Thanks, it takes time and the willingness to tear it off if it’s not right, plus sore fingers from pressing the pieces together while the CA takes hold. 😩
- 840 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Nice paint work. However those friezes are done I know from my Pegasus they require meticulous work and steady hands - you've done a really nice job of it.
- 419 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Victory Models
- Pegasus
- (and 2 more)
Our Emblem ®
