glbarlow

Quality work, bothe the beams and ring bolts. It’s the small things that make for a great model like yours.

Well, you’re not that far behind me. Enjoy seeing your full scale woodworking tools in action. It seems with your skillls making the bollards out of wood doesn’t seem to be a stretch.

She looks really great, impressive work.

Thank you all for the likes and comments!

Thank you, the time spent on fairing paid off.

Thank you Don.

Wales, First Layer I completed the first layer of the wales. I usually try to make my logs either entertaining or informative, this time here’s a few photos for reporting purposes. I’ve only done rough sanding, I’ll wait until I complete more planking above and below to do more, I’ll also even up the sides as visible from the stern then. I did not follow a butt shift plan for this under-layer except to not to place them at the same place for the plan’s pattern I’ll use on the top layer. Obviously no reason to pencil between planks either.

I make my own rope. I just fill out this form, supply some money and my rope arrives made. I appreciate the talent, but there are just some things I have no interest doing. No rope rocket for me.

I did, only it’s Glenn, not Gene😁 btw drilling out blocks is a common requirement, as long as you don’t go to big.

I’m glad professor gene is helpful, I don’t think I know him though. 😂🤣

Interesting, that same book edition is on the US WOB site for $9.99, maybe they don’t get the exchange rate thing.

Amazon has the individual books, which I have the entire set, and This hardcover combined set as well as the Sea of Words book.

The open companionway is a great touch. I know how important it is to get a good fit with the false deck, which you’ve clearly done.

It’s available on Amazon in multiple formats.

Counter and Wales Prep Not a lot to show for several days work, there was a lot of fussing about to set the line for the wales and complete the lower counter. I have decided to name my ship BOB, why you might ask? There are a lot of good Winchelsea builds going on. For the stern and counter in particular I’ve spent a lot of time looking at multiple build logs searching for the perfect way to shape the counter, which then impacts the line of the wales at the stern, which is tied to virtually everything up from there. So I’ve looked, thought about it and determined one clear thing. There isn't one answer. Across the board everyone’s is a bit different - which is great and something I need to embrace. So rather than analyze and search for examples in fear of having a bad build log photo I’ve come to conclusion I just need to build….BOB. This isn’t a revelation to many of you I’m sure, but nonetheless here I am…just me and BOB. First up was the very careful alignment of a batten, starting with, but not always ending with, the bulkhead reference marks, then doing the exact mirror on the opposing side. Imagine my surprise after many hours of looking, lining up, nailing (I hate nailing things, glad I had that nail driver I never use) my wales batten split stern frame D, just like Chuck noted it should in the monograph. I want to emphasize I ended there after everything else - so BOB did ok with her alignment (of course ships are ‘her’ and Bob in this case is a ‘she,’ it’s confusing I know). I was glad I remembered to mark the line with pencil before removing the batten, that would not be a fun thing to forget to do. After a number of dents and pricks of my fingers with little nails and many more of them on the floor than in the ship I was able to look from all angles and feel BOB was looking quite sheik with her sheer exposed. Note BOB’s slender S-curve at the bow. Here’s something interesting, the measurements of the wales taken from the plans are a near perfect match to the framed NMM print I have framed and having on my wall - talk about inspiration (and I'm sure no accident). The stern looked a bit different as I added the lower counter, adding it did not come without a lot of adjustment to the stern frames. It probably ended up back where it started, who knows, but I spent a good bit of time getting shaped in a way BOB was happy with. This is where I examined all those build logs - there’s a lot of excellent lower counters out there in case you’re wondering. So this may not be the best counter, but I'll counter with its the counter BOB is going carry around from here on. I am not at all sure about those stern fillers, another example of lots of examples in all shapes and sizes. It is however just balsa wood. I am confident it will reveal itself when I start the lower planking - it will take nothing to reshape it or even remove it, so for now it stays. BOB fills better this way. Having constructed the frame, marked the lines, countered the counter I can finally move past the skeleton. After two months to get to this point it’s time to put some skin on this puppy…I mean BOB. Thanks for stopping by and your likes comments.

Nice work on the wheel. I like your hold down brackets for the mill. Where did you get those?

Welcome. Great start, your excellent wood working skills are clearly evident already.

The grates look great. Nice looking model you have there BE.

I cut them on brass plates, I mistakenly thought it was something different. Thanks though.

Beautiful work. What is the device you are using to scrape moldings? It is impressive.

Thanks, I think they’ll be fine after I sand them flush to the planking, and better still once they’re painted black. Frank, my bow lines up nicely with the Chapter 9 bow templates so i think I’m good on that front. I appreciate your looking in.

Here are some updated photos of the bollard Timbers with the angled bowsprit hole and more bevel to the front and rear, though the carving is still square. As you can see that’s as much as I can bevel until the planking is in and I can sand it smooth to that. Any more comments are welcome.

Yes the would be pairs if as I was thinking. Again, I’m guessing. I suggest DMing James.

Bollard timbers are complete and installed. Since I plan to paint them black later I wasn’t as concerned about removing all the laser char. And with that Chapter 1 is complete.

James should be able to give you an answer. My guess is as the are lift or jeer blocks they would be seized around the mast long enough to then down through the slot where you see them.